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About to get some Tein Flex Z's (true coilover) for my coupe. I need some transparency on the camber and toe suggestions.
Only looking to eliminate fender gap in front and back. Need to know my options on correcting alignment specs.
Rear:
I know there are toe bolts (cheapest option), but not sure if I feel like dealing with the grinding of the existing bolt hole. Would you rather go the toe arm instead?
Camber, assuming is needed.
Front:
Are camber arms needed? Also, is OEM toe adjustment in the front good enough, or will that need to be replaced with another component too?
My old 05 TL, I just threw on the coils, and could adjust the toe. So I am knowledgable to coils, but ignorant to arms/bolts.
Any valuable resources are useful as well. Thanks in advance.
With a true coilover rear mount you can eliminate the OEM lower control arm (aka spring bucket) and use camber arms and toe arms to get your alignment proper. Won't have to do any drilling and won't have the possibility a toe bolt getting loose when really pushed on a regular basis.
Front toe is fully adjustable through the tie rods, and if you keep the drop on the milder side your camber may be close enough to spec to still get reasonable tire wear, but YMMV.
How often does the toe bolt slip? I would just be doing DD,
no track. Is it that much of an issue?
In addition, what would be considered a "mild drop"
to not need camber adjustment in the front? I just plan on eliminating the disgusting wheel gap, and maybe a slight tuck.
Originally Posted by blnewt
With a true coilover rear mount you can eliminate the OEM lower control arm (aka spring bucket) and use camber arms and toe arms to get your alignment proper. Won't have to do any drilling and won't have the possibility a toe bolt getting loose when really pushed on a regular basis.
Front toe is fully adjustable through the tie rods, and if you keep the drop on the milder side your camber may be close enough to spec to still get reasonable tire wear, but YMMV.
I'm dropped pretty low, to zero gap (about 26.25" to the fender arches on Sedan, on Megan Street LP coils, I'm about due for new ones though, probably just go Tein Street Basis next time around. My camber is right about -1.0 F and -1.0 to0 -1.1 rear, so I get extremely even wear across the tread block
Here's my G setup
Hey all - following up with the initial question. Turns out, I am dumb and thought the Flex Z came in the true coilover type. I was sadly mistaken (looking at stock photos). So I went OEM style, and will have no choice but to use a toe bolt.
Good news is, I got the SPC camber arms and toe bolts for $150 brand new locally.
Hey all - following up with the initial question. Turns out, I am dumb and thought the Flex Z came in the true coilover type. I was sadly mistaken (looking at stock photos). So I went OEM style, and will have no choice but to use a toe bolt.
Good news is, I got the SPC camber arms and toe bolts for $150 brand new locally.
Got a question about rear suspension. So just to clarify, if I were to go Z1 Lower control arm and SPL toe link, is that all I need? Or will I also need the SPL eccentric lockout kit?
Got a question about rear suspension. So just to clarify, if I were to go Z1 Lower control arm and SPL toe link, is that all I need? Or will I also need the SPL eccentric lockout kit?
You don't need the lockout kit, just another step to insure exact toe settings that won't have a chance to shift.