supreme

Hi All -

About to get some Tein Flex Z's (true coilover) for my coupe. I need some transparency on the camber and toe suggestions.

Only looking to eliminate fender gap in front and back. Need to know my options on correcting alignment specs.

Rear:

I know there are toe bolts (cheapest option), but not sure if I feel like dealing with the grinding of the existing bolt hole. Would you rather go the toe arm instead?

Camber, assuming is needed.

Front:

Are camber arms needed? Also, is OEM toe adjustment in the front good enough, or will that need to be replaced with another component too?

My old 05 TL, I just threw on the coils, and could adjust the toe. So I am knowledgable to coils, but ignorant to arms/bolts.

Any valuable resources are useful as well. Thanks in advance.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

With a true coilover rear mount you can eliminate the OEM lower control arm (aka spring bucket) and use camber arms and toe arms to get your alignment proper. Won't have to do any drilling and won't have the possibility a toe bolt getting loose when really pushed on a regular basis.
Front toe is fully adjustable through the tie rods, and if you keep the drop on the milder side your camber may be close enough to spec to still get reasonable tire wear, but YMMV.

Crazyirish

Did they release a new version? I only see one listing for the Flex Z and I know its not a true-type coilover in the rear.

slartibartfast

iTrader: (7)

Stock front suspension only provides toe adjustment. You have to buy adjustable upper control arms if camber or caster need adjustment.

supreme

Thanks for the insight guys.

How often does the toe bolt slip? I would just be doing DD,
no track. Is it that much of an issue?

In addition, what would be considered a "mild drop"
to not need camber adjustment in the front? I just plan on eliminating the disgusting wheel gap, and maybe a slight tuck.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

It varies, every drop seems different as far as alignment readings. A 1.25" drop should be ok for no camber help up front, but never say never.

I've had my SPC F&R full kit and never had any problem w/ toe bolt changes, and that's over 6+ years & 75k miles ago

supreme

Excellent! Thanks for the insight. May opt out of the front camber for now, and go about it later if needed.

What drop do you have, and camber specs in the front?

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

I'm dropped pretty low, to zero gap (about 26.25" to the fender arches on Sedan, on Megan Street LP coils, I'm about due for new ones though, probably just go Tein Street Basis next time around. My camber is right about -1.0 F and -1.0 to0 -1.1 rear, so I get extremely even wear across the tread block
Here's my G setup

supreme

Hey all - following up with the initial question. Turns out, I am dumb and thought the Flex Z came in the true coilover type. I was sadly mistaken (looking at stock photos). So I went OEM style, and will have no choice but to use a toe bolt.

Good news is, I got the SPC camber arms and toe bolts for $150 brand new locally.

Will be tackling this in the upcoming weeks.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Check this thread if you haven't seen it~
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...-template.html

xmajd92

iTrader: (1)

Got a question about rear suspension. So just to clarify, if I were to go Z1 Lower control arm and SPL toe link, is that all I need? Or will I also need the SPL eccentric lockout kit?

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

You don't need the lockout kit, just another step to insure exact toe settings that won't have a chance to shift.

xmajd92

iTrader: (1)

So if I were to track my car then the lockout kit would be necessary?

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Not necessary, but that would be the ideal application to justify their purchase.

xmajd92

iTrader: (1)

I see. Thank you!