I am tired of turning my OEM rotors. I am tired of the squealing and squeaking. I am tired of the judder. I am looking at three options and need some advice:

Lowest price: custom slotted brake rotors

Adam's Rotors: Drag I, slot/cross hatch



Pros: cheapest, high quality OEM design, interesting rotor surfacing designs
Cons: OEM vane design...fail, heavy AF

Will run $625 just for the rotors. Figure another 200-250 for pads.



Mid-tier: KNS Brakes

DBA T3 ClubSpec 4000 all around



Will run $980 for rotors and pads combo

Pros: improved vane design, quality made
Cons: According to DBA website, 10% heavier due to additional mass from improved vane design, slots appear to go out past edge of rotor (prone to cracking at that point???), more expensive and still honestly a traditional rotor



Most expensive: https://www.z1motorsports.com/brakes...rs-p-7025.html

Z1 2 Piece Akebono Front and Rear Rotors



https://www.z1motorsports.com/brakes...rs-p-7374.html



Will run $1400 for pads and rotors

Pros: very lightweight, rebuild possible, excellent directional vane design, built by a pro company just for our car, probably most resistant to warping and brake deposit build-up according to my research
Cons: expensive AF for a street car, totally overkill for street car, rears are oddly quite a bit more than fronts (head-scratcher there)

Tips, opinions, anything? I do not track my car but I drive it quite aggressive on the street.

 

I have DBA XS 4000's drilled/slotted with Hawk HPS 5.0 pads on my Coupe (all 4 corners) and have absolutely no complaints whatsoever. I do A LOT of city stop-and-go driving and so far have not had any issues.

 

How many miles do you have on this setup? Also...can you lathe these rotors or only blanks

 

My car is not a daily driver so roughly only 1000 miles so far. I am sure others with more mileage will chime in. As far as resurfacing, it can be done but not many places are willing either due to equipment or experience.

 

Yeah, you'd have to call around regarding machining of slotted/drilled rotors, some shops just won't do them, but they can be done.

Unless you really want the look of the slots I'd just run Centric premium blanks on Hawk HPS 5.0 pads, won't bust the budget and are better vented than OEM and better rust prevention. If I had Akebonos that's what I'd run.

Those rotors above sure are pretty though

 

"If the slots are improperly machined, all the way to the outside edges, then rotors may develop cracks sooner than plain or properly slotted rotors."

https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/i...Path=6446_6514

Is this really a problem...based on the "stock" pics all over the internet it looks like DBA drags the slots past the edge of the rotor, unlike almost every other rotor company.

 

I took these this morning- please note these are the DBA XS 4000's and NOT the T3 4000's:

Right Rear:


Right Front:


Please excuse the surface rust. The car has been sitting for two weeks. Hopefully this will show a different perspective other than the typical stock photos plastered all over creation.

 

+1 for the centric premium blanks. a lot of the slotted/drilled options here are more for show, and a lot more dough. don't really offer improved performance.

 

Thankyou so much. Gonna go with the DNA setup! I'd love the two price from Z1 but it's total overkill

 

If you are getting squeaking/squealing from your brakes it is most likely just that you need to grease the back of the brake pads.

I am glad you are choosing slotted rather than cross drilled on the off chance you ever decide to do a track day (cross drilled crack earlier). However, slotted is still overkill for the street. Even stock rotors work well on the track as they technically have slightly more material for strength and to act as a heat sink.

Get slotted only if you really like the look. They may help scrape your brake pads clean, but that means your pads will probably wear faster. Also, a lot of shops will not turn a slotted rotor as it pretty easily damage their cutting tool.