I have a 2008 G37S coupe lowered on eibach lowering springs. I recently purchased the front and rear Kinetix camber kit for my car. I went to install the front kit, however, once I loosened the bolt for the stock upper control arm, there was no way for the bolt to come out because the lowering springs were blocking the space the bolt needed to be pulled out.


Is there a trick to this that I can do to have the bolts come out with out entirely disassembling my shock tower?


If I do need to disassemble the suspension, do I need a spring compressor to remove and reinstall the springs?


Will I have similar clearing issues in the rear for when I install the rear kit?

 

If you have already released the upper control arm at the ball joint, then you can try just releasing the strut from the tower via the three nuts in your engine bay. This should give you some room maneuver the strut down and forward to slide the A-arm bolts out.

 

I tried doing that actually, but for some reason I wasn't able to pull the strut down, it was stuck in place so I thought I had to disassemble the whole setup. You are sure that once I remove the three top bolts and the ball join, I can pull down the strut enough to lean it forward?

 

It's a bitch but it can be done. It would help if you had another set of hands but I did it myself by borrowing spring compressors. Remove the three bolts then compress the springs and it'll be easier to remove the strut or at least give you some room to work with.

 

the answer to this is yes. make sure you disconnect the swaybar endlink on the side you're working on so you can actually push far enough down.

 

As long as both front wheels are in the air, loosening up the top 3 strut nuts and with some muscle it should be enough to move it out of the way to get the bolts free. Saw my friends do it this way, and yes an extra pair of hands really helps.

 

Second this. If you have preload on the sway bar, it will keep tension on the strut. Disconnect the link at the bar. Then, you can use a pry bar to push the lower arm down. Just make sure you position the bar against s9mething solid like the subframe.

 

Helps to have both the front wheels off the ground. This unloads the sway bar. Did mine this past weekend. No problems pushing the lower arm down and getting enough room to pluck that strut out. You just have to mind the brake lines. No stretchy.

 

This is also going to sound really dumb, but where are the factory jacking points on the car? My last car had designated pinched metal areas on the side to jack it up from, but the G I just see the pinch weld that runs along the car. What's a safe place to jack it up from from the front as well, so I can get both tires off the ground?

 

Here you go, there's a little raised circle on the engine cradle pan where you center the floor jack. And use a jackstand pad (like a cut hockey puck) on your jackstands and those can be used where your pinch welds are.

 

Awesome, this is perfect. Hopefully my low profile jack will reach that front point under my IPL bumper.

 

Just installed my front arms today as well finally. Two bolts were a pain but I used the same method I posted about earlier and wasn't too bad. Although it seems the car is sitting a little higher than before after installation, heard about that in old threads if anyone else can chime in?