Lowering help!!! Never done this before..

Old Apr 19, 2016 | 10:03 AM
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Lowering help!!! Never done this before..

I was hoping to get some help, I have read endless forum posts but just seem to get confused at time on what I myself really need. I have a 2010 G37x I'm going to pull the trigger with the FA 500's. I don't plan on slamming it but I want to get a flush or zero gap space with my factory duck feet. Do I need camber kits ? Toe bolts ? Or can I just get away with just the coils? Thank you guys for the help !!!
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Old Apr 19, 2016 | 10:35 AM
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If you lower your car you will need a camber kit. Would love to see some pics when you install.
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Old Apr 19, 2016 | 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by VQpoppa
If you lower your car you will need a camber kit. Would love to see some pics when you install.
Pics will def. be posted maybe even some play by play of install. But that's where I get confused bc those who bought the swift spring were mostly all able to stay within spec with out a camber kit , but some needed just the rears?
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Old Apr 19, 2016 | 10:47 AM
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Springs only will go maybe an inch lower I think. Some say if you only go an inch your OK. But your wanting to go much lower. Get you a rear camber kit and call it a day. But I'm no expert by any means. And my car is basically stock so. Lol.
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Old Apr 19, 2016 | 10:49 AM
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What you can get away with and the right way to do it are two different issues. Can you simply install coil overs and leave it at that? Absolutely. Should you? Not if you actually car about your car and how it drives. Anyone who tells you that you don't really need to do anything else is lowering strictly for looks only. To lower the car and maintain full functionality you need to correct the things you've changed in your suspension geometry by lowering it. Front upper arms that adjust camber and caster will allow you to adjust it back to a setting where it drives and handles like it is designed to (pretty much).

In the rear, a toe bolt that has greater adjustment range than the stock one will allow you to adjust the toe back to normal even with the suspension lowered. Ditto with rear camber arms. Without these you'll be on of proper alignment. Yes your car will still drive and most people can't tell the difference. But not doing these things places a lot of extra stress on components (especially wheels and tires) that they aren't designed to handle.
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Old Apr 19, 2016 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Black Betty
What you can get away with and the right way to do it are two different issues. Can you simply install coil overs and leave it at that? Absolutely. Should you? Not if you actually car about your car and how it drives. Anyone who tells you that you don't really need to do anything else is lowering strictly for looks only. To lower the car and maintain full functionality you need to correct the things you've changed in your suspension geometry by lowering it. Front upper arms that adjust camber and caster will allow you to adjust it back to a setting where it drives and handles like it is designed to (pretty much).

In the rear, a toe bolt that has greater adjustment range than the stock one will allow you to adjust the toe back to normal even with the suspension lowered. Ditto with rear camber arms. Without these you'll be on of proper alignment. Yes your car will still drive and most people can't tell the difference. But not doing these things places a lot of extra stress on components (especially wheels and tires) that they aren't designed to handle.
Thank you the great info. I def. want to do things right upfront. I want the best handling and def do get on my car. So in your opinion I'm going to purchase both front and rear camber kits with toe bolts in the rear correct ? Do you prefer spc or spl?
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Old Apr 19, 2016 | 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Oh My G 523
Thank you the great info. I def. want to do things right upfront. I want the best handling and def do get on my car. So in your opinion I'm going to purchase both front and rear camber kits with toe bolts in the rear correct ? Do you prefer spc or spl?
Yes, that's my strongly held opinion. I have had both SPC and SPL parts. There's no comparison, the SPL are better by a wide margin. Not that the SPC are not capable. But the design, build quality, and materials of the SPL are much better. And the significantly higher price reflects this.
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 08:55 AM
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Question:

Are these the camber arms you are referring to and will they fit the AWD model? Also, do we need to replace the front control arms as well?

Adjustable Rear Camber Arms for 370Z and G37 | SPL Parts
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 10:56 AM
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Those would be the correct rear arms^^^, and the camber sets for AWD & RWD are the same although there are different part #s for SPC coupe/sedan rear applications.

If you go zero gap (about 26.25" to the fender) then you will need the front camber arms too. The SPLs are sweet but costly, I'd get them if you plan on really pushing your G, but for primarily daily duty the SPCs will work fine. I've had SPCs on my RWD G for about 60k miles now and no issues whatsoever, and I was at 25.75" at one point, but now happily back to zero gap
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 11:07 AM
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Subbed for info. I've lowered my car about 1.5 inches with no camber kit, just coils. However, I haven't noticed a noticeable difference. Although, after the alignment was done. I was barely out of spec.

I was going to get Sway's,, dechrome, headlight mods and cut/polish + Ceramic Pro next.

Black Betty and BLnewt, would you recommend getting these first.

BLnewt, I believe you've seen pictures before. However, I'll add them again for Black Betty.











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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 11:15 AM
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Gavin, yep I've seen pics of your nice G
Every G seems to be unique as far as what can be done without camber help. Some techs seem to be able to get the most out of the OEM adjustment. If you have a copy of your alignment sheet to post that would help. If your camber is in the -1.6 to -2 range w/ good toe then you should expect reasonable wear, not as good as having camber around -1 but still pretty good.
Just keep a close eye on your inner tread wear when rotating tires, it can really surprise you sometimes you if you don't check it.
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by blnewt
Gavin, yep I've seen pics of your nice G
Every G seems to be unique as far as what can be done without camber help. Some techs seem to be able to get the most out of the OEM adjustment. If you have a copy of your alignment sheet to post that would help. If your camber is in the -1.6 to -2 range w/ good toe then you should expect reasonable wear, not as good as having camber around -1 but still pretty good.
Just keep a close eye on your inner tread wear when rotating tires, it can really surprise you sometimes you if you don't check it.
Thanks! I believe it was -1.8. I'll see if I can find it.
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 11:21 AM
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Is it a general rule of thumb on the front that if you drop 1 inch approximately you will not need a camber kit? Anything more than 1.25 inches and you will probably need it?
I seem to be reading this but was unsure...
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 03:14 PM
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Get bent rear lower camber arms so you can upgrade the sway bars. I wish this was more obvious to me when I did mine.
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 04:27 PM
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Some people enjoy the extra neg camber after a drop...improves handling but added tire wear...trade offs I guess.
1in is the general rule but all depends on the driver's needs or wants out of their car.
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