Hey guys I just lowered on my car on Tein S techs. I also installed SPC rear camber arms but not toe bolts. The mechanic said there is no point in drilling holes and such since the factory toe bolt will be more than enough for my drop. Anyway, after all this we hit the alignment rack. So the front camber is at -2.0 degrees with toe in spec. So I asked him to adjust the rear camber to maybe -1.5 degrees or so since this is close to what factory spec would be. Rear camber currently is at -2.5 or .6 degrees. But he said you want the rear camber to be a little more negative than the front. He said the car will feel unbalanced if I run more camber in the front than the rear? I took his word since I have zero experience with alignments. Also since it is a performance shop and they do tons of work on legit race cars. So hoping someone can verify if that is correct. Also, since the toe is in spec I shouldn't need to worry about extra tire wear right? < This being the main reason why I bothered to buy camber arms.

 

Subbed to this thread I also have all these questions lol Give it a little bit and the knowledge of the forum should start rolling in!

 

Sub'd. I have the same car with those same springs going on tomorrow... Help us out someone! If not I'll relay what my alignment comes up with on Monday.


I have the rear SPC bolts but am a little confused on the hole drilling, is it not required for a more mild drop?


And most importantly, do you have any pictures yet???

 

I will get some pictures once the springs settle a little. To install spc toe bolts you need to elongate the hole,which requires drilling. It should come with this small white template. But the mechanic was right, my toe stayed perfectly in spec without installing them. The factory ones are fine.

Here is a PDF on installing the toe bolts: http://www.batit.com/forumpics/spctoeboltinstall.pdf

 

Nobody is replying to this thread bc it got moved and is hiding in this section of the forum

 

I don't know if the shop is correct about the differential camber but if they can get the numbers without the toe bolt mod, let 'em. If you don't like the way the car feels, have the rear camber reduced. I'm running -2º both front and read and like it. I suggest you have the shop reduce total toe front and rear to like 5 mm in. The car won't track straight ahead as well but tire wear will be reduced and the car will want to turn easier.

 

It all depends what you're using the car for. Most street level cars only require about -1.5 max but dedicated track cars run -3 maybe more. So let's run examples. If the rest of the suspension is neutral, having front camber more negative than rear will produce an oversteering car, and having rear camber more negative than front will produce an understeering car.
Given our car's stock under-steering tendencies, having more rear negative camber will make it worse and require heavier/thicker front sway settings. On top of this, handling dynamics will change.
If you really really want to dial it all in, you need to take into consideration your drop/sway stiffness/tire sizes/wheel widths/camber and toe...all this plays a factor into how the vehicle handles.
There's probably more but that's enough for now.

 

My car steers quite easily with the throttle even with my camber. Big lurid power slides if DSC is off. I still suggest letting the shop do the differential camber. If the OP doesn't like it, it's no big deal to change.

 

I was thinking of getting -1.5 all around after installing my 15mm spacers

 

Unless you have front camber arms, there is no way you are going to achieve that.

 

What do you think the optimal amount of camber should be for the rear since the front is not adjustable on a daily driver car?

 

Adjusting to the max negative camber in the OEM in-spec range is a good number to shoot for. If you plan on doing aggressive cornering on a regular basis add a bit more negative camber while keeping toe in spec.

 

So -2 degrees up front and -1.5 in the rear?

 

Just be sure to keep your toe adjusting with the camber, the more toe in the more straight line stability vs toe out giving more cornering bias

 

I forgot how much the toe is up front but the rear was 0.14 I believe. All I know was the alignment screen was showing green on the toe. Haha