G37Xtreme

I can't get my driver side rotor on. Been at this for 6 hours today and I just can't.

There is slack at the equalizer but I can't pull the cable through at the hub. Any suggestions?


MODS:

Please move this to the appropriate sub forum. I posted here for the extra traffic in hopes that someone could give quick advice. I've since decided to leave the parking brake pads out of the driver side so I could get the rotor on.

I've pretty much determined that it's the parking brake cable from the equalizer to the hub. I can't figure out how it would bind up. I really pulled hard on it and there's no give.

G37Xtreme

Can I replace just the driver side parking brake cable or is this best done for both sides? The cables are like $70 ea. I think I've found the right cable for the driver side sedan.

36531JU40A

SonicVQ

I don't think the cable is the problem.

Have you backed off the parking brake shoe adjusters (Item #3) This is done by removing a small rubber plug in the hub and use a flat blade screwdriver to turn the adjusting wheel.

See PB-9 in the shop manual: Index of /FSM/G37

G37Xtreme

Yes. I have the whole assembly taken apart and the adjuster is at its shortest setting. The cable on the driver side is at its most retraced setting. Applying the parking brake does not change the cables length. I cannot pull it out at all to lengthen it.

When I finally removed the old rotor, the parking brake shoes were unevenly worn. It was evident that the parking brake on the driver side has been enabled permanently for some time. The bottom of the shoe was worn to the metal. So the cable had failed at some point in the past and worn down from driving.

The passenger side cable sticks out at least an inch further than the driver side. Also, the slack at the equalizer has no tension on it and is longer on the driver side. I SHOULD be able to pull the cable through but I can't.

I was looking over the cable, and I can't see it in its entirety. It seems like the exhaust needs to be dropped, but maybe not. Can anyone confirm for me if the circled red portion has any fastening points on the car? I don't see any bolts in the diagram, so I'm assuming not. If not, I think I can replace this myself without dropping the exhaust as the other two fastening points are really accessible iirc.

SonicVQ

I understand now... Your cable is seized.

This picture of my car may help:



There is one nut that needs to be removed. If you have long and skinny arms, you may be able to reach to where the cable passes through the floor.

-OR-
you could attach a string or wire to the end of the seized parking cable, and pull the cable out, making sure the string/wire still passes through the floor. Then attach the end of the new cable to the string/wire and pull the cable into place.

Good luck!

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

I'm curious, what trim is this? Parking brake rarely if ever used?

G37Xtreme

I don't think it goes through the floor does it? The portion between the brake pedal and the equalizer does, but it looks like each side after the equalizer stays under the car. I haven't visually seen the entire run of the cable, but I have seen the nut attachment point that you show as well. There's also an attachment point right before the equalizer. You can barely see it from under the car, but if you remove the heat shield and cross brace near the y-pipe junction, you can actually put your hands on the equalizer.

I just want to be sure there are only 2 attachment points before I undertake this. My exhaust is pretty rusty, and I don't think I can drop it and reassemble it properly, so I want to be sure the circled part in my picture isn't an attachment point.

SonicVQ

Ahhhhhhh....
Your car is an auto that has the pedal operated parking brake.
My car has a manual transmission with the hand brake.

The path of the parking brake cable is different than mine, so I don't think I will be able to help you any more.

In looking at the diagram, I think the 2 cables meet at the equalizer. From there a new cable goes from the equalizer, through the floor, to the parking brake pedal.

To figure out what needs to be done, I think you will need to get the car up on 4 jack stands and have a look.

-Good Luck!

G37Xtreme

That's interesting. I would think regardless of pedal or handle, you need an equalizer to go from one cable to two. Is this not the case with the 6mt? Or do you have both cables going directly to the hand brake without an equalizer?

SonicVQ

After reading your post I had another look at the FSM.
You are correct and both MT6 and the auto have the equalizer under the car.

G37Xtreme

I got the brake cable ordered. List price is like $94. One local place wanted $108. The other one wanted list price.

I got it online from parts.com for $64...$75 shipped. It will probably take more than a week to arrive though

I've been parking in my driveway and putting wheel chocks behind the wheels. I don't like having the car rest on the transmission in park, especially on a hill. The sound it makes when going into DRIVE bothers me. I've been applying the parking brake, letting it settle, then going into PARK pretty much since I've owned it.

I've also stopped driving it for now. Each time I drive it, I have to back off the chocks in reverse (i back into the driveway), put it in park, remove the chocks, then back to drive which creates that sound. I'm just going to leave it be and dive the Miata until I get the cable installed.

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

I used 1st gear and a block of wood when my e brake cable snapped in the camaro. The block of wood would be left in a certain place on the driveway. When parking I'd just gently drive over it, then let the car roll back until it settled against the wood. Left it in 1st gear or reverse. Used this method for ~2 years until I got rid of the car.

Not sure if you can do this with an auto as there's no direct engine/trans coupling.

SonicVQ

Sounds like you have a good plan. Good luck with the install and I hope it is not too difficult to reach the equalizer.

G37Xtreme

Well, I got the stuck brake cable replaced. It took longer than expected, but I've learned a few things.

Getting the cable released from the equalizer was the toughest part. I also had to remove one side of the shield in the back to properly route the cable. There is an over/under clamp behind this shield and the cable must go over one part and under the other part, so
you twist it into this retention point.

SonicVQ

Glad to hear you got everything done. Did you happen to take any pictures?