I was looking through the FSM and it shows 123 ft. lbs. for the front caliper's and 43 ft. lbs. for the rear. Is this correct?

 

I'd trust FSM over forum anyday. I installed my BBK using those values and everything seems to work.

 

None of the values you stated are correct. Further, it depends on the year. You should read GI (General Information) to make sure you're reading the correct value. I did a quick check on 3 years:
2008 - Front 60 ft-lb - Rear - 28 ft-lb
2009 - Front 98 ft-lb - Rear - 62 ft-lb
2012 - Front 91 ft-lb - Rear - 62 ft-lb

 

It is strange that the same parts have such different torque values, you are correct though. I think if I had an 08 I'd follow the 09 torque specs, 38 lbs less for the same bolts/brackets/and calipers sure seems excessive.

 

Thanks everyone for the info.

 

Building off what Brad said about them all being the same parts, I would recommend using the most recent data. It kind of makes me think to how people are advised against buying a first year of a car. It looks like between 08-09 Nissan/Infiniti engineers were somehow enlightened and realized they needed to increase the torque specs. It looks like that value was fine tuned again in 2012 and backed off a few pounds.This is just how I look at it though.

 

That's a good way to look at it ^^.
My 9/16" bolts holding my Wilwood front calipers have a 92 ft. lb spec, and those are virtually the same size as the OEM front Infiniti caliper bolts.

The 08 spec I found was from the NicoClub
Index of /FSM/G37/Coupe/2008

I wonder if you look it up straight from Infiniti if it's been updated. Like I said previously, 30+ ft lbs less is quite a bit, especially something as life threatening as caliper attachment

 

The bolts changed throughout the years, hence the change in torque specs.

I was thinking the same thing when I did my brakes earlier this summer. I looked into it and found the bolt part numbers had changed. I believe it went from a bolt w/ washer to a flanged bolt.

I torqued my front calipers to 60ft-lbs as I do not want to deal with extracting a broken bolt in the future.

 

my torque values have always been tighten until snug. Seems to be working out pretty well all these years

 

Interesting, I think I'd have gotten the new bolts, 60 ft lbs isn't much. I know the engineers know their stuff, but still, that's a pretty significant difference in torque and it's not holding something that would not be catastrophic if it came loose.
Not sure if you're serious

 

That really does make things complicated if it's the case. Torque values do typically correspond with the construction of a bolt (stretch, etc.), so this does hold water.

Maybe bolt until snug isn't that bad of an idea....lol

 

Yep, definitely is an item for thought. The knuckle/spindle is the same for all years which means no changes there, also, I believe the calipers are identical for all years. So the only difference is the hardware.

Why would a company change mounting hardware? My ideas are:
-Design/engineer team found a potential issue with old hardware
-Stop gap solution for early production runs (related to logistics)
-Logistics:
-cheaper part (doubtful)
-reuse existing part
-vendor could not meet supply requirements of old bolt and was replaced with another offering
-vendor phased out old bolt and replaced with new bolt

60 ft-lb seemed low to me as well, I figured I'd see how it looked/felt when I put it back together. Everything felt solid and I had no concerns about the bolts backing out so I stuck with 60 ft-lbs. Broken bolts frustrate me, 60 ft-lb should make this a non issue.

I think everyone should stick to the rating in the respective service manual.

 

Based upon InfinitiUSA.com, the bolt P/N for all years is the same: Item 41138H
BOLTPIN 41136-JK00A

I just googled it and it brought me to the Nissan website where it states that this PN is no longer available.

 

I have the four bolts in hand (since I had to use new ones w/ my Wilwoods) and also noticed they used threadlocker, or at least I assume it's threadlocker, although it's white

Interesting thread as I REALLY would like to know why they increased the torque by a third (it's not like they just went up or down a couple pounds), mine is an 09 and although I had the base floating calipers the bolts are the same across all caliper lines.

 

Being 100% serious. Bolting until snug, especially for a bolt this size, and unless you have ungodly strength or a 3 foot breaker bar, will not shear the head of the bolt off, if that's a concern, nor will to be too loose where the bolt can wiggle out and cause said catastrophe.

I see it both ways. The brakes are not complicated pieces of equipment that require specific torque specs in order to work correctly. What they do require is being snug on it's mounting location so that it can operate correctly. Much like with suspension pieces, all they really require is a snug fit in order to work appropriately. There are no clearance specs to be concerned with. There is a time and place for a torque wrench. For 95% of shade tree mechanics, the torque wrench can stay in its case. (imo of course )

TL;DR - for things that do not require clearance specs or exact measurements, bolting until snug will make your day much easier.