I've read several threads talking about brake judder. I currently have it and it was confirmed by Infiniti that the problem is the splash shield. I'm considering replacing the rotors with stoptech slotted cryo rotors and HPS hawk pads. Can anyone confirm that by replacing the oem parts with stoptech and hawks, this will eliminate the judder w/o having to install the splash shields?

 

Are the dealer checked rear rotors?
In my case, replacing splash shields does not fix the judder!!!! The problem was in REAR rotors!!!

 

^Thanks for the information. I don't mind buying the parts, but I do want it to solve the problem. I believe I'm just going to order the rotors/pads and forget about the splash shields.

 

Rear rotors was my problem as well. Infiniti will turn them free of charge if you are under warranty. Replaced mine with stoptech cryo (unslotted), Akebono OEM Performance pads, and ATE TYP 200 fluid and all is well.

Akebono: Aftermarket Products and Services

Brake dust is so low! The wheels never turn dark. They get some dust, but that is expected being my car sees 120mph regularly. No squeal and progressive braking power.

 

^ +1. it took me three dealer warranty visits to figure out that it was my REAR rotors that were causing the judder. they had already turned the front rotors, then replaced the front rotors, then added the splash shield. then they looked and saw that my rears had uneven pad deposits on the rotors. since they were partially worn (~35k miles) i was on my own for the rears. so i bought Centric premium blanks and Akebono ProACT pads and put them on myself. everything has been smooth sailing since. except, of course, for the damn front brake squeal on reversing everytime i get in it cold...but that is "normal".

 

Good information. The last time that they turned the rotors was at 65K front/rear. They replaced the rear pads and left the fronts. This time @75K, the dealer wanted to turn the front rotors and replace the splash shield. It looks like once I get the new rotors/pads installed, I'll be in good shape.

 

How are the splash shields causing judder..?

 

The splash shields don't cause judder, they prevent it. The rotors get too hot and cause warping, the splash shield directs air flow onto the heated parts. IMO, if I go with an aftermarket slotted cryo rotor, I believe that I won't be needing any additional cooling. Warped rotors seem to be the weakest link on the G37.

 

I am surprised you went that long on stock rotors. I changed mine once I heard they are problematic and I was getting the symptoms. You'll be happy with Akebono aftermarket pads. Be sure to lube your caliper guide pins and replace the brake hardware. Change your fluid if it has been almost 2 years or more. Maybe even paint the calipers while you have everything off. It's an easy DIY job, so you can save some money if you do a bit of research.

 

I just replaced the two front tires and I found that the judder that I was experiencing has significantly diminished. Still a slight issue when stopping, but nothing like it was prior to the new tire installation. The left front was almost new, still 8/32nds remaining, while the right front had uneven wear with at 6/32nds remaining. I can't wait to get the brakes/pads.

 

Whoa, wait, stop, plllllease. I'm not sure most of you understand the real cause of brake shudder and how to cure it. To really get the definitive answer, go to the Stoptech web-site and read their white papers on brakes. The big thing you'll find is uneven brake pad deposition to the rotor surface are the primary cause of this problem. Not in all cases, but most. When you get new pads and rotors or have the rotors turned with new pads, then make sure you bed the pads in correctly to those rotors. Usually this solves most of those problems. Read those papers and follow their advice because it works.

For those who think the G cars have weak rotors or brakes, I can only attest that my 2012 G37S rotors with HPS and HP+ pads work fine once I learned how to brake the "G" correctly. I'm also faster on the track because of that. I've found most OEM splash guards are all but useless on most cars for cooling rotors. You have to design a custom cooling/splash guard setup to really have that affect and that also means air ducts and hoses. When you closely look at these custom units, you'll see that they are primarily forcing cool air into the center area of the hub to cool the bearings first, and then the rotors internal vanes suck that air up and through the rotors inner circumference and out through the rotors outer edge. That's one reason ventilated rotors are superior in cooling than solid ones. Again the Stoptech papers will explain that.

The OEM units are called splash/debris guards because they reduce the amount of water or road debris which might get onto a rotor and thus reduce braking efficiency in certain situations because the back of a wheel have no spokes to reduce rain and debris from getting into that area while spinning. Personally I've found with a good set of slotted rotors they aren't needed. This way both sides get the same cooling air and the slots take care of removing debris and the hot thermal surface layer on the rotor more efficiently.

I might be off on a few minor points but verify it with those "white papers."

Al

 

Great info track bandit. My stoptech slotted cryo's and Hawk pads are coming this week, can't wait to put them on. Sounds like this will definitely cure my problems.

 

So it was the lack of splash shields that was the problem..?

 

That's what the dealer told me, but after reading the "white papers" from Stoptech I'll go with Track Bandit.

 

Yeah, that made more sense.

It's amazing the amount of crap the dealers try to feed us...