SPC camber kit owners...
^ yup those are the 3 shops to go to in so-cal
if you're from 626 area you get to choose between evasive and temple city auto repair. henry from temple city auto repair is great. never been to evasive but i heard GREAT things from them.
if youre from OC area (closer to torrance) West End is where its at. Darin is really cool and he knows SO MUCH about anything related to suspension. I just got some stuff done there and even though hes friggin busy he trys to be really accommodating.
if you're from 626 area you get to choose between evasive and temple city auto repair. henry from temple city auto repair is great. never been to evasive but i heard GREAT things from them.
if youre from OC area (closer to torrance) West End is where its at. Darin is really cool and he knows SO MUCH about anything related to suspension. I just got some stuff done there and even though hes friggin busy he trys to be really accommodating.
Ok just adding a question to all this lowering...I have a New2011 Journey Sport with Lrg Sport Brakes...I looked in to the IPL edition and found that it sits 1.0 lower in the front and .65 in the rear compared to mine still with the sport package suspension! I asked Matt at the dealership what is the difference he says the Upper and lower arms are made for lower stance and just put in a different lowering spring and minor camber kit and I'll get a better stiffer stance with out butterflying any thoughts???
well most of us that have the SPC camber kit are either on lowering springs or coilovers. lowering on either coils or springs will give u more of a stiffer ride and that butterfly look ur refering to (u tend to see this more dramatically on hondas)... they just come hand in hand... the point of the SPC camber kit is to get rid of that butterfly look and to give u more tire life as well... otherwise youll go through tires like a mad man!!!
What I would try is to rotate the ball joint 180 degrees.
When installing mine, I notice the nut was offset to the center line of the ball joint.
If installed one way the nut would be further out on the arm. Allowing more neg camber.
When installed the right way the ball joint would be further out than the top nut, thus allowing clearance. Also allowing more positive camber.
Its hard to explain, BUT the ball joint CAN be installed backwards, and still get a good camber adjustment, nut you will hit.
This picture shows the correct mounting: NOTICE THE NUT IS OFFSET TO THE BALL JOINT. Allowing more camber, and the nut sits further in.
Last edited by TVPostSound; Nov 12, 2011 at 01:00 PM.
I had this issues too when I first got my coils. I forgot how low I was but I was slammed. Since I adjusted no more issues. IMO nothing to worry about, just be careful when driving that's what I do, avoiding potholes etc.
What I would try is to rotate the ball joint 180 degrees.
When installing mine, I notice the nut was offset to the center line of the ball joint.
If installed one way the nut would be further out on the arm. Allowing more neg camber.
When installed the right way the ball joint would be further out than the top nut, thus allowing clearance. Also allowing more positive camber.
Its hard to explain, BUT the ball joint CAN be installed backwards, and still get a good camber adjustment, nut you will hit.
This picture shows the correct mounting: NOTICE THE NUT IS OFFSET TO THE BALL JOINT. Allowing more camber, and the nut sits further in.

When installing mine, I notice the nut was offset to the center line of the ball joint.
If installed one way the nut would be further out on the arm. Allowing more neg camber.
When installed the right way the ball joint would be further out than the top nut, thus allowing clearance. Also allowing more positive camber.
Its hard to explain, BUT the ball joint CAN be installed backwards, and still get a good camber adjustment, nut you will hit.
This picture shows the correct mounting: NOTICE THE NUT IS OFFSET TO THE BALL JOINT. Allowing more camber, and the nut sits further in.

Now that was resolved with th edge (gold spc cylindrical piece)....
The issue is still there!!! We noticed that th arm itself is still touching at th end (black part of th arm).... That cannot be corrected... Th arm does touch slitly...
Ok... After doing lots of research and calling around, I thought I had already had a lot of information to take to th alignment guy, whether it was down at evasive motorsport or whomever. Anywho, th caster plate was already in place so that id get th most clearance... We took a look at this yesterday... And noticed that th round end at th joint was slightly touching but that would be fixed by moving it slightly ...
Now that was resolved with th edge (gold spc cylindrical piece)....
The issue is still there!!! We noticed that th arm itself is still touching at th end (black part of th arm).... That cannot be corrected... Th arm does touch slitly...
Now that was resolved with th edge (gold spc cylindrical piece)....
The issue is still there!!! We noticed that th arm itself is still touching at th end (black part of th arm).... That cannot be corrected... Th arm does touch slitly...
He shows where the old style arm hit the inner fender, relative to the new style arm that is now installed in that picture.
Notice how the arm tucks into the recess? Is you arm in the recess, and still hits? Then your damper, or spring is malfunctioning. Or you might just be too low.
I just measured mine again, Im at 26 1/4 on Eibachs, using factory dampers, drove over some speed humps, and do not hit.
Are you sure you did not get the first run G37 arms that are too long??
I borrowed this pic from HamstersG.
He shows where the old style arm hit the inner fender, relative to the new style arm that is now installed in that picture.
Notice how the arm tucks into the recess? Is you arm in the recess, and still hits? Then your damper, or spring is malfunctioning. Or you might just be too low.
I just measured mine again, Im at 26 1/4 on Eibachs, using factory dampers, drove over some speed humps, and do not hit.
Are you sure you did not get the first run G37 arms that are too long??

He shows where the old style arm hit the inner fender, relative to the new style arm that is now installed in that picture.
Notice how the arm tucks into the recess? Is you arm in the recess, and still hits? Then your damper, or spring is malfunctioning. Or you might just be too low.
I just measured mine again, Im at 26 1/4 on Eibachs, using factory dampers, drove over some speed humps, and do not hit.
Are you sure you did not get the first run G37 arms that are too long??

Last edited by frty9rsfn; Nov 13, 2011 at 01:44 AM.
I called eibach and have verified that it is th right kit.... My TEIN FLEX is less than 3 months old... Have then on th stiffest setting andim not hittinon small bumps and potholes... But if its a large bumps on th road then it will hit... Th black arm hits... And I'm 26 inches off th ground on my coupe.. I got th arm from eibach about a month ago too...
I just cut down my rear spring mounts, to match the front height.
I measured at 26 1/4. To make sure the rear springs seated, I went to a street with speed humps, and went over 10 of them, not once did the arms hit. And Im on Eibachs!
Might have you forgotten to install the bumper on the damper rod??
Does it hit where the picture shows? Or does it bottom in the well?
I just cut down my rear spring mounts, to match the front height.
I measured at 26 1/4. To make sure the rear springs seated, I went to a street with speed humps, and went over 10 of them, not once did the arms hit. And Im on Eibachs!
Might have you forgotten to install the bumper on the damper rod??
I just cut down my rear spring mounts, to match the front height.
I measured at 26 1/4. To make sure the rear springs seated, I went to a street with speed humps, and went over 10 of them, not once did the arms hit. And Im on Eibachs!
Might have you forgotten to install the bumper on the damper rod??
Didn't install th bumpers on th damper rod... So i have to take th coils apart and add th red bushings to th rod? Do u mind taking a pic of this from either side....???would really appreciate it.
oh I see that recess ur speaking of... Im gonna have to check again and see but I think it does not clear perfectly like th one in th pic... From what I remember, it doesn't clear since th end of th arm has a mark...
Didn't install th bumpers on th damper rod... So i have to take th coils apart and add th red bushings to th rod? Do u mind taking a pic of this from either side....???would really appreciate it.
Didn't install th bumpers on th damper rod... So i have to take th coils apart and add th red bushings to th rod? Do u mind taking a pic of this from either side....???would really appreciate it.
I didnt add the bumpers, I dont bottom out.
I have my appointment with evasive motorsports at the end of the week... hopefully there is something they can do to fix this issue...
Im also gonna get something else done tomorrow and we are gonna take a look at it before my apointment and see whats going on...
ill try taking some pictures tomorrow and post them up as we got the wheel off... then u guys can see what is going on as well...
Im also gonna get something else done tomorrow and we are gonna take a look at it before my apointment and see whats going on...
ill try taking some pictures tomorrow and post them up as we got the wheel off... then u guys can see what is going on as well...
I just installed SPC front camber arms and my ride height increased i notice, i tried tightening the inner joint bolts with the suspension loaded and ride height is still higher then before, anyone with this issue?
no not here... wish that was my issue... u hitting under the fender well like i am??
No i did not hit fender, cause i think i am high enough to clear, before SPC camber arms, i have about one finger gap, after SPC arms, i have 2 finger gap now in the front, the car looks funny with higher front and lower back. I even double check the installation again, any ideas?


