Hotchkis swaybar weight
08-08-2011, 01:56 AM
#1
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Hotchkis swaybar weight
I just figured I'd post this since I weighed them today.
Hotchkis swaybar: front 14.2lbs rear 8.4lbs
Stock G37S 6MT Sedan swaybar: front 7.6lbs rear 4.8lbs
Total Hotchkis weight increase would be approximately 10.2 lbs.
Hotchkis swaybar: front 14.2lbs rear 8.4lbs
Stock G37S 6MT Sedan swaybar: front 7.6lbs rear 4.8lbs
Total Hotchkis weight increase would be approximately 10.2 lbs.
08-08-2011, 02:18 AM
#2
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thanks i was also wanting to know the answer to this for a long time
08-08-2011, 01:57 PM
#5
My new Hotchkis bars should be here today via UPS and I'm really looking forward to getting them put on.
Did you guys run into anything unusual when you mounted them? Did anyone do the replacement on ramps instead of jack stands? What type of lubrication did you use on the bushings?
Did you guys run into anything unusual when you mounted them? Did anyone do the replacement on ramps instead of jack stands? What type of lubrication did you use on the bushings?
08-08-2011, 02:13 PM
#6
My new Hotchkis bars should be here today via UPS and I'm really looking forward to getting them put on.
Did you guys run into anything unusual when you mounted them? Did anyone do the replacement on ramps instead of jack stands? What type of lubrication did you use on the bushings?
Did you guys run into anything unusual when you mounted them? Did anyone do the replacement on ramps instead of jack stands? What type of lubrication did you use on the bushings?
08-08-2011, 02:17 PM
#7
I think you need to use jack stands as you want to have the tires in the air on both sides to relieve the pressure on the sway bar so you can unbolt from the end links and then line back up again and bolt on the new bar. Otherwise, the install was pretty straightforward. Only think I noted was in the rear the place you unbolt the exhaust (to provide clearance to remove/install the rear sway bar) was different from pictures in the instruction manual on my 2010 (they must have changed the couplings) but pretty easy to identify.
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08-08-2011, 03:09 PM
#8
I installed mine with the ramps. I didn run into any issues, just sucked having a cramped space. Make sure to use PBlaster on those tight nuts and let them soak in for a good 10 minutes. Make sure to have a nice breaker bar handy as well as torque wrenches that can go from 25 - 62 ft lb
08-08-2011, 03:16 PM
#9
I think you need to use jack stands as you want to have the tires in the air on both sides to relieve the pressure on the sway bar so you can unbolt from the end links and then line back up again and bolt on the new bar. Otherwise, the install was pretty straightforward. Only think I noted was in the rear the place you unbolt the exhaust (to provide clearance to remove/install the rear sway bar) was different from pictures in the instruction manual on my 2010 (they must have changed the couplings) but pretty easy to identify.
Better to have the tires on ramps, that will UNLOAD the bars endlinks.
08-08-2011, 03:20 PM
#10
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Thread Starter
Use the ramps, and not the jackstands. The load is zero for the swaybars when the car is sitting on ground. I also needed to torque the front endlinks higher than specified. I had it at specified torque and the nut became loose during test drive.
08-08-2011, 06:34 PM
#12
Which slot did you use for the rear bar end links when you installed them? The directions recommend the 1st hole closest to the end, but I seem to recall reading somewhere that the middle hole works better and matches the front bar's ridgidity better.
