Best BBK for G37 Sedan
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 144
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Brakes are heat conversion devices. They take your forward motion and convert it into heat that's why they get so hot. The more heat you generate the bigger the escape path for the heat needs to be. The escape path is the rotor. It sucks up all of the heat (a la a heat sink). If you start taking away metal (drilling) then you take away heat carrying capacity and the brake becomes less effective. You also reduce pad contact area because now all of the little holes under the pad contact area means less pad is touching rotor and your performance goes down.
If you design the system with cast holes in mind then it's effective. But just drilling an OEM rotor does nothing except reduce performance and longevity and give it the super car look.
Slotting is a better thing to do if you need to add performance to a smooth rotor. By performance I mean create a path for outgassing and pad wiping. It"s cheaper/easier to do and doesn't take as much metal off the rot
or and is more stable because the slots/holes aren't all the way through the rotor.
Both methods (cast and aftermarket drilling) end up with holes all the way through. If the holes are not formed when the rotor is formed (when the metal is poured) the grain flow does not wrap around the holes and they crack very easily/badly. This is how real "drilled" rotors (Porsche, Ferrari, etc) are made. Most OEM rotors with holes in them are made this way.
Brakes are heat conversion devices. They take your forward motion and convert it into heat that's why they get so hot. The more heat you generate the bigger the escape path for the heat needs to be. The escape path is the rotor. It sucks up all of the heat (a la a heat sink). If you start taking away metal (drilling) then you take away heat carrying capacity and the brake becomes less effective. You also reduce pad contact area because now all of the little holes under the pad contact area means less pad is touching rotor and your performance goes down.
If you design the system with cast holes in mind then it's effective. But just drilling an OEM rotor does nothing except reduce performance and longevity and give it the super car look.
Slotting is a better thing to do if you need to add performance to a smooth rotor. By performance I mean create a path for outgassing and pad wiping. It"s cheaper/easier to do and doesn't take as much metal off the rot
or and is more stable because the slots/holes aren't all the way through the rotor.
Brakes are heat conversion devices. They take your forward motion and convert it into heat that's why they get so hot. The more heat you generate the bigger the escape path for the heat needs to be. The escape path is the rotor. It sucks up all of the heat (a la a heat sink). If you start taking away metal (drilling) then you take away heat carrying capacity and the brake becomes less effective. You also reduce pad contact area because now all of the little holes under the pad contact area means less pad is touching rotor and your performance goes down.
If you design the system with cast holes in mind then it's effective. But just drilling an OEM rotor does nothing except reduce performance and longevity and give it the super car look.
Slotting is a better thing to do if you need to add performance to a smooth rotor. By performance I mean create a path for outgassing and pad wiping. It"s cheaper/easier to do and doesn't take as much metal off the rot
or and is more stable because the slots/holes aren't all the way through the rotor.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 188
Likes: 12
From: Ukraine, Kharkov
I'm very satisfied with my Akebonos BBK + DBA5000 2piece slotted rotors front + Stoptech slotted rotors rear + Ferodo DS2500 pads + Motul DOT 5.1 fluid. Very reliable, excellent for spirited driving and even for light track sessions (no fade detected 
).
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Registered User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 213
Likes: 2
From: Lowell, IN
Just my opinion, but why not just go with a set up DBA rotors. You can go either slotted or cross drilled and slotted and paired up with a nice set up ceramic pads and new lines you will be fine. This will be plenty of stopping power for you. I used the slotted set on my 06 GTO that made 420rwhp and 400tq and it stopped that thing in a hurry. Also, had no fade after multiple 100mph stops in a row as i would hot lap the car at the track sometimes. I only used a front set as well so if you did a full set I'm sure you would be completely satisfied. These will also cost you a fraction of the price of any BBK out there.
Just my 2 cents...
Just my 2 cents...
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 188
Likes: 12
From: Ukraine, Kharkov
stock g37x rotor brakes are too small to resist heat. I had the set of DBA4000 slotted rotors all around and used ceramic Powerstop pads - it was better than stock, but rotors warped in several months after some spirited driving (not even the track!).
I believe, that DBA4000 rotors on Akebonos with some decent pads would work for spirited driving, but not for the track (several friends tried this combo and warped the rotors!).
for the track (even the light one) you need 2piece rotors, as our cars have very bad air ventilation for the brakes...
I believe, that DBA4000 rotors on Akebonos with some decent pads would work for spirited driving, but not for the track (several friends tried this combo and warped the rotors!).
for the track (even the light one) you need 2piece rotors, as our cars have very bad air ventilation for the brakes...
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