Going low!
Going low!
Alright so heres the situation. I am about to purcahse a set of BC Racing BR coilovers + SPC camber kit. I will be running the OEM sport wheels for a bit until i get aftermarket wheels.
What size and brand spacers do you recommend?
I know our fenders are rolled from factory, but will i need to trim the fender if i were to run 20mm? I have a buddy on the forum that had to trim his fender running 15mm spacers on the vert.
Any input at all?
What size and brand spacers do you recommend?
I know our fenders are rolled from factory, but will i need to trim the fender if i were to run 20mm? I have a buddy on the forum that had to trim his fender running 15mm spacers on the vert.
Any input at all?
^ that's a good question. i've always ran factory alignment specs for my lowered car (singular because i've only owned one car prior and it was the only car i've ever lowered...lol)
assuming factory specs are no good...
assuming factory specs are no good...
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If you run close to the factory alignment specs, even a 20mm spacer is going to be pushing it. The reason most people run 20mm (or in some cases 25mm) spacers is because they don't correct camber when lowering, and the wheels tuck in a lot more. I would personally lower the car, get the alignment, take some measurements to see what works for you, then add the appropriate spacers. Better yet, I would skip the spacers altogether, and save that $200 for new wheels.
On a sporty RWD car you want some negative camber; especially on the rear. I would personally recommend close to -0.5 on the front and -1 degree (or more) on the rear. The factory spec for the front is +.4 to -1.08, and the rear is -.33 to -1.33. With the above specs, your tire wear should not be affected much as long as you keep the toe in check.
I would zero out the toe in the front, and run a really small amount of toe in the rear (like 1mm or less). Toe is really what eats up tires, so you want to make sure you get this in spec more so than camber. However, a small amount of toe in on the rear will aid in turn-in and also help you recover from an extreme understeer condition (i.e. if you loose control of the car).
EDIT: I recommend Project KICS spacers. I know people that have had issues with Ichiba (vibration, especially with stock wheels), and H&R with the hubcentric ring breaking. The KICS are a little more (and the hubcentric ring is separate), but worth it if you are going to use spacers.
On a sporty RWD car you want some negative camber; especially on the rear. I would personally recommend close to -0.5 on the front and -1 degree (or more) on the rear. The factory spec for the front is +.4 to -1.08, and the rear is -.33 to -1.33. With the above specs, your tire wear should not be affected much as long as you keep the toe in check.
I would zero out the toe in the front, and run a really small amount of toe in the rear (like 1mm or less). Toe is really what eats up tires, so you want to make sure you get this in spec more so than camber. However, a small amount of toe in on the rear will aid in turn-in and also help you recover from an extreme understeer condition (i.e. if you loose control of the car).
EDIT: I recommend Project KICS spacers. I know people that have had issues with Ichiba (vibration, especially with stock wheels), and H&R with the hubcentric ring breaking. The KICS are a little more (and the hubcentric ring is separate), but worth it if you are going to use spacers.
Yeah, I should add, I like more negative camber, but my recommendations are nice and conservative. And, yes, if a shop is telling you to 0 everything out, they don't have any idea what they are talking about....
Should i pick up the spacers before or after the drop? I don't want to end up with the wrong spacers before the install, but i do not want to run a sunk in setup.
Last edited by apexi957; Apr 26, 2011 at 01:42 PM.
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