+++Coilover Comparison Guide+++
What does a "true rear coilover" mean? Meaning the spring is separate from the piston? Same as the KW?
This may be information to add to the original listing. It may be important for others to know about as they consider their options. Nice write up though and continue to add good information.
This may be information to add to the original listing. It may be important for others to know about as they consider their options. Nice write up though and continue to add good information.
Based on review from jran76 (https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...coilovers.html)
Tein SSP
- spring rates: 9K/8K
- Independent compression and rebound adjustments
- 16 way adjustable for dampening
- have pillow ball upper mounts
- damper adjustment "clicks" = yes
- price: ~$1600 shipped (verify with vendors)
From the Review
"Driving Impression: In one word, GREAT. I don't know what took me so long. The car is much firmer and more solid feeling, especially over bumpy and choppy roads, but not as rough as my stock shock/Eibach spring combo. At the same time, the body roll is greatly reduced. I know it is hard to believe, but I attribute it to the stock shocks not being a good match for the Eibach springs. I also prefer the feel of the linear springs over the progressive Eibach springs. Handling is greatly improved, and I would not want stiffer springs unless this was approaching a full-time track car. Overall, I am blown away and really happy with the results. I would highly recommend these. There are dips that my front tires used to rub the upper fender liner and now it is stiff enough to not do so, but it takes the dip a lot smoother and with more composure overall."
Tein SSP
- spring rates: 9K/8K
- Independent compression and rebound adjustments
- 16 way adjustable for dampening
- have pillow ball upper mounts
- damper adjustment "clicks" = yes
- price: ~$1600 shipped (verify with vendors)
From the Review
"Driving Impression: In one word, GREAT. I don't know what took me so long. The car is much firmer and more solid feeling, especially over bumpy and choppy roads, but not as rough as my stock shock/Eibach spring combo. At the same time, the body roll is greatly reduced. I know it is hard to believe, but I attribute it to the stock shocks not being a good match for the Eibach springs. I also prefer the feel of the linear springs over the progressive Eibach springs. Handling is greatly improved, and I would not want stiffer springs unless this was approaching a full-time track car. Overall, I am blown away and really happy with the results. I would highly recommend these. There are dips that my front tires used to rub the upper fender liner and now it is stiff enough to not do so, but it takes the dip a lot smoother and with more composure overall."
Registered Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 978
Likes: 3
All of the listed coilovers in the OP are "OEM style" meaning the rear setup has the spring and strut seperate just like Nissan intended. D2, K-sport, and Stance GR+ (come in either true or OEM style) have a rear setup that places the spring over the strut just like the front setup. There is much debate on this "true coilover" setup on the G/Z platform; some say it puts stress on the rear shock tower that wasnt designed for it and some say "true" is better for all out performance and easier adjustment, etc.
So is there any conclusion to that? Whether a true coilover are a better set up or the OEM are the better set up?
I think its down to personal preference. In my opinion, a true coilover set up will be better for handling. A true coilover in the rear will allow you to lock down the OEM toe bolt and camber bolt adjustments and use aftermarket camber and toe arms. This allows for a more precise toe/camber adjustment and less deviance during hard cornering.
However, as jmlenz pointed out, the rear shock tower was not designed to support the entire weight of the back of the car. Most of the weight should be directed to the chasis, as done by the location of the OEM springs. Running the true coilover setup might not be good for the car in the long run.
However, as jmlenz pointed out, the rear shock tower was not designed to support the entire weight of the back of the car. Most of the weight should be directed to the chasis, as done by the location of the OEM springs. Running the true coilover setup might not be good for the car in the long run.
Registered Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 978
Likes: 3
Thanks Modme, so if i do get the true coilovers, what will be be some of the problems i will meet in the long run? Just worn out coilovers?
By the way you put it, it seems like if i am not tracking the car, i would be better off not having a true coilover for the car? Am i getting it right?
By the way you put it, it seems like if i am not tracking the car, i would be better off not having a true coilover for the car? Am i getting it right?
^ not so much the coilover itself, but where it's attached. You have four points of attachment with the OEM setup, versus two for a "true" coilover setup. The shocks themselves are only attached by two small bolts up top.
If you don't track the car, you can still benefit from adjustability with some coilovers.
If you don't track the car, you can still benefit from adjustability with some coilovers.
I think its down to personal preference. In my opinion, a true coilover set up will be better for handling. A true coilover in the rear will allow you to lock down the OEM toe bolt and camber bolt adjustments and use aftermarket camber and toe arms. This allows for a more precise toe/camber adjustment and less deviance during hard cornering.
However, as jmlenz pointed out, the rear shock tower was not designed to support the entire weight of the back of the car. Most of the weight should be directed to the chasis, as done by the location of the OEM springs. Running the true coilover setup might not be good for the car in the long run.
However, as jmlenz pointed out, the rear shock tower was not designed to support the entire weight of the back of the car. Most of the weight should be directed to the chasis, as done by the location of the OEM springs. Running the true coilover setup might not be good for the car in the long run.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
hey guys - im trying to sell my KW V3 coilovers, i purchased them a few months ago (and its too late to return them to the online shop they will only buy them back for 30% less than i paid...) they were never installed and i really need to sell them.
KW V3 VARIANT 3 Coilovers Infiniti G37 07+ G37s Shocks - eBay (item 250769064219 end time Feb-15-11 08
37 PST)
KW V3 VARIANT 3 Coilovers Infiniti G37 07+ G37s Shocks - eBay (item 250769064219 end time Feb-15-11 08
37 PST)