adrianbf

Volume and enter button/lever for sure work. I don't use cruise control or the other buttons often enough and I can't really recall if they light up. Will check it out tonight though.

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

I'm sure you're good to go there.
It seems your SAS (Steering Angle Sensor) is the culprit. It could be as simple as a blown fuse or the sensor itself it shot- which is VERY rare. The only thing I could recommend is to check the SAS harness and make sure you have a good power and ground connection.

Do you have a good code scanner/app? OBDFusion with the Nissan/Infiniti addons, can check all of the modules and pull any codes. In this case, any Cxxxx (Chassis) codes would help narrow in on the issue.

If the sensor is shot, while you can technically replace it, you would still need the dealer to calibrate steering angle neutral position.

adrianbf

Yeah I used my scanner and pulled up a C1143 and C1144 which confirms your suspicion. I also have a C1185, idk if that has anything to do with my issue. You mentioned a blown fuse. Where could I find the fuse panel to check it out? I wanna try and fix it myself before I pay someone else to do it for me

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

What year/body?

adrianbf

2008 coupe with tech package

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

Perfect. Same as mine.
In the IPDM/er (big fuse box next to battery), fuse #45 (10amp) provides power to the SAS, as well as the Yaw Rate/Side G sensor).

Might be easier to remove the lower steering column shroud, unplug the SAS connector (8-pin connector), and check for power and ground (Black for Ground, and Green for 12V+ with key ON (not ACC). Do not probe the Pink or Blue wires- leave them alone!

adrianbf

You're a lifesaver. I'll check that out first chance I get.

adrianbf

So just to update. I opened up the IPDM box to inspect the fuse. I got confused and ended up checking all 10 amp fuses, unfortunately they all seemed fine to me so I guess it's time for me to take into a shop :/. I'll update later when I take into the shop.

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

Did you remove the lower shroud and check the connector? Before you take it to a shop- and if you have the time- I would suggest you double check all of your work. It may be a pain in the bum, but I know the shop will rob you blind. The sensor alone (new OEM) is ≈$670. not including cost of labor or calibration! Personally, I would get a used one off eBay and give that a try.

Seriously, SAS failures are extremely rare and the thought of it crapping out just because you removed the steering wheel is nuts. I am not a fan of coincidences... Hell, as many times as I've had my clockspring/SAS out for my steering wheel swap (even swapped them out) the SAS never failed.

Good luck!

adrianbf

Unfortunately I don't have a multimeter to check I've read that aligning the wheels or other stuff like that helps so I'm hoping that I have luck on my side and it's not that expensive to fix

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

I understand completely. Plz keep us updated.

P.S.- we need to ask Santa Claus to get you a multimeter for your Christmas stocking

adrianbf

So I FINALLY got it diagnosed. It appears it is the cs. Would anyone know where I can find the part number for that? I tried looking today while centering my steering wheel but I could not find the number...

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

Do you need the SRS Clockspring or the SAS (Steering Angle Sensor)? The SRS may or may not have a sticker. The SAS should have a sticker with the p/n on it (47945-xxxxx) easily with the steering wheel and trim shroud removed.

adrianbf

Is the SRS responsible for steering controls to not be working? My buttons on the trim stopped working so it was that which led me to believe it was the SRS that was at fault. I thought i had just turned the CS too far

Edit: My bad I read through this thread again. You pointed me in the direction of the SAS. I'll start the fixing there since I managed to get a p/n for that.

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

If NONE of the steering wheel buttons work then the SRS CLOCKSPRING can be suspect, not the SAS. It gets confusing because they are two separate components that do two separate jobs but are joined together and make it appear as if they are one part.

I referenced the SAS as the original topic was with the VDC and SLIP lights staying on as well as certain C-codes.

Again, if the buttons do not work, it could be the clockspring. Without a multimeter there is no simple test to verify. Do the buttons light up at night?