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So I checked online, and I don't want to spend those types of prices. Ended up taking the kick panel all apart, removed all the adhesive, and ordered an LED strip.
Sure. It was not hard to remove the door sill, just required a lot of patience. Had to remove the lower interior plastic trim, then had to remove the lower portion of the door seal (don't remove all of it, just leave it dangling). If your sill was not removed ever, then it's going to require a little bit of muscle precision to not bend the metal. I unclipped the right side and worked my interior tool across to free the plastic from the adhesive. I eventually got to the left side and unbolted it and the whole sill was removed. Also, do not forget to unplug the wire, and cut off the zip tie it is connected to. Not necessary, if you plan to do the whole project on top of the door jamb. My connectors were covered in some adhesive foam, so I had to pick it off little by little. I removed all of the old adhesive glue from the pieces with goo gone and my chisel kit, so the new adhesive tape will have a clean surface to adhere to. My LEDs are arriving tomorrow, so I will do the soldering then. Also going to put double sided adhesive tape to connect everything when I put it all back together. If my light goes out again for the driver's side, then I'm just going to pull off the plugs from both sides and have it not glow because these aren't really a big deal for me, I just had to deal with the flickering for a year and decided to do something about it now due to quarantine.
Sure. It was not hard to remove the door sill, just required a lot of patience. Had to remove the lower interior plastic trim, then had to remove the lower portion of the door seal (don't remove all of it, just leave it dangling). If your sill was not removed ever, then it's going to require a little bit of muscle precision to not bend the metal. I unclipped the right side and worked my interior tool across to free the plastic from the adhesive. I eventually got to the left side and unbolted it and the whole sill was removed. Also, do not forget to unplug the wire, and cut off the zip tie it is connected to. Not necessary, if you plan to do the whole project on top of the door jamb. My connectors were covered in some adhesive foam, so I had to pick it off little by little. I removed all of the old adhesive glue from the pieces with goo gone and my chisel kit, so the new adhesive tape will have a clean surface to adhere to. My LEDs are arriving tomorrow, so I will do the soldering then. Also going to put double sided adhesive tape to connect everything when I put it all back together. If my light goes out again for the driver's side, then I'm just going to pull off the plugs from both sides and have it not glow because these aren't really a big deal for me, I just had to deal with the flickering for a year and decided to do something about it now due to quarantine.
Awesome man! Those pics are excellent , much appreciated ...the silver part on my sills are scuffed really bad and have tried multiple ways to clean but it's almost like a hard gouge to the material , so I'm thinking of wrapping it in vinyl ...just to make it look nicer...it's a piece that doesn't get seen much but it bugs me nevertheless but I think I'll leave well enough as is on the lighting part and just vinyl ..so yeah thanks on the tip on being careful on the removal not to bend it etc and hope yours works out and lights up when all said and done , post up pics when done.
Awesome man! Those pics are excellent , much appreciated ...the silver part on my sills are scuffed really bad and have tried multiple ways to clean but it's almost like a hard gouge to the material , so I'm thinking of wrapping it in vinyl ...just to make it look nicer...it's a piece that doesn't get seen much but it bugs me nevertheless but I think I'll leave well enough as is on the lighting part and just vinyl ..so yeah thanks on the tip on being careful on the removal not to bend it etc and hope yours works out and lights up when all said and done , post up pics when done.
Any time. If you want advice, I'd recommend buying some brushed metal wrap from Amazon if you want an OEM look, like this:
I never really liked the idea of wrapping in carbon fiber vinyl personally. I just got my LEDs today, so I will be soldering them in tomorrow and hopefully everything will be done.
Originally Posted by iCrap
Make sure if you change the LED strip you do side firing, NOT top firing LEDs.
Just curious, before I begin, is the red wiring positive and the white negative? And did you keep the chrome plating for the LEDs or had them placed on the black plastic?
Appreciate that and thanks but agree, maybe not the ideal route , but it's an inexpensive solution once the plates are damaged Soni think this will help and most likely will go with a color similar to that brushed aluminium...but not sure yet ..
So, I finished it. I used scotch double side adhesive and some leftover glue I had from a previous project to clamp down the plastic with the metal. Soldering was pretty simple . I spent a small fraction of what brand new illuminated sills cost, so I am happy with that. Shines a tad brighter than the original OEM LEDs, but you would not notice it unless they were side by side. I’m surprised nobody made a DIY for this repair that is more in depth.
So, I finished it. I used scotch double side adhesive and some leftover glue I had from a previous project to clamp down the plastic with the metal. Soldering was pretty simple . I spent a small fraction of what brand new illuminated sills cost, so I am happy with that. Shines a tad brighter than the original OEM LEDs, but you would not notice it unless they were side by side. I’m surprised nobody made a DIY for this repair that is more in depth.
Wow, that looks good and oem and I just went out and looked at mine and it does appear brighter vs pic, so that's a plus...well then at least I know that if/when mine start to go , there is a good solution, but I may go with red LEDs for a change up....
Thanks man, just remember that the red wire is positive and the white wire is negative. Also, keep all the parts just in case. I was going to throw away the black felt that was attached to the chrome plate, but it is pretty useful to block out any light from seeping out from any nook of the plate. I know I mentioned to be careful not to bend the metal, and I will repeat that again. A bend can cause an abnormality and have light seep out. If you plan on wrapping, it shouldn't be hard. Just be careful with the metal, it is very sharp.
Thanks. I just used top firing LED strips and it didn't really cause any changes from the side firing. If anything, it is probably more brighter. My phone really can't decipher the light that well, so the image looks like a potato quality.
I used this because the delivery date was shorter and because it's already in the US:
It fit perfectly, and you can use the rest of the strip for other projects for the car or the house. I'm just going to keep it for the Infinitis because we have 3 that have illuminated kickplates and if those go out then I'll use the strips. It took 10 years for my G's to flicker, so I wonder how long the others will last.
No problem. Hopefully you find the information useful and will do it yourself. If I took all the amount of time it took to do the just that project, it would be about 1 and a half hour. I just took extra time with removing the old adhesive. I also noticed that the clear plastic lettering was faded due to me using goof off to remove the old adhesive that was in the nooks and crannies. Excuse my work floor mat, that is a very dirty old mat I use whenever I’m working on the car to prevent getting my new OEM mats from getting dirty.
So, I decided to wet sand it with 1000 grit sandpaper, then with 1500 grit, and finish it off with 2000 grit. Eventually polished it up with plastx and got a near perfect look. Looks like it’s brand new. I don’t think my pictures do it justice since my phone is having a hard time picking up the LED light and causes the whole inage to get blurry.
