My '11 is not leaking yet, but I plan on doing this to my drains. I also wrapped the top hoses 720 degrees with safety wire to clamp them in place. I've had the hoses shrink on other cars and pull off the barbs on the pan drains.

 

Great info in this thread. Woke up to ice on the inside of my windshield twice.

Checked and my rear mats are wetter than the fronts. Dreading taking the seats and carpets out this weekend to dry it out.

Are the rear sunroof drains connected to the fronts? I couldn't seem to find them.

Has anybody replaced the rear drains?

I now have to find a covered parking spot... Might get a cheap car cover.

 

In the sedans, the rear drain tubes go down the sail panel to the back of wheel well exiting out the vehicle. So unless you have a tear or cut in the tubing ( and I would expect you might see water staining on the headliner or inside panels) I don't think that they can leak into the vehicle.

My car had tons of water in the rear floorboards and it was a result of it migrating from the front once it got so full. If it's been raining significantly where you live, you would be surprised how much water leaks around the sunroof seal and into the drains.

 

Thanks, 03Mach69Mach.

I removed the interior trim and had about 2 inches of water in the driver's side floor pan.

Did some testing with both front drains and 90% of the water spilled out of the car. Nothing looked to be running back into the interior. Tubes look clean and viewing the grommets from interior looked ok.

Checking under the hood on the drivers side (included pic), I noticed small amounts of water leaking from the where the arrows are.

Is this the normal spot for the leak? it just seemed so odd it was coming from that area.

Also does anyone know if the sunroof seal can be purchased separately?

Appreciate the help

 

That looks to be the master cylinder brake booster on the left side of this photo. Is that the case? That is about the area where the grommet for the sunroof drain exits the firewall. When you said 90% of the water spilled out of car, that means that 10% is leaking somewhere else, inside the car? Remember, if 10% leaks into the vehicle, it will migrate to the lowest point and collect. That water will not evaporate or go away, it collects in the floorboard raising the overall humidity inside the vehicle.

My car had about the same or a little more in all the floorboards. I sucked at least a gallon of water out of the car. After draining the water and several days of hard rain, I had a return of the water but not the volume that I originally took out of the car. I am convinced that the leaking grommet at the fire wall allows a trickle and that water, once inside the car, doesn't readily dryout because its below/behind the vapor barrier built into the carpet system.

The video in this thread shows that grommet. You can see how the water drain doesn't put the water beyond the firewall, just barely through it. The design of the grommet has onto the firewall has three materials that each expand and contract at different rates (Metal firewall, nylon-plastic grommet, rubber gasket) and the connection to the firewall are those tabs. Not exactly a positive tight connection. Given that one of the firewalls functions is to isolate the engine heat from the cabin, that area is subject to extreme temperature changes and thats not helpful for the connection of the grommet.

Again, the front sunroof drain tubes should, like the rear tubes and the AC Condenser drain, should exit the vehicle completely and at the bottom of the car.

Hoping you are able to get this resolved. I know how maddening and disappointing it is to keep having this issue with this vehicle. I love my car, but this issue almost caused me to clean it up and trade onto someone else to deal with.

 

You are spot on. The pic was where the master cylinder brake booster is. It is very maddening but your insight has made it bearable.

Did you leave the grommets in the firewall and seal them when you rereouted the tubing?

I don't want to have to seal the grommet up since its so difficult to get in that area.

This weekend hopefully I can get the new tubes connected\routed for the next owner since the car is in pieces already . I probably had this since buying the car 3 years ago..

Decided to Vinyl wrap over the sunroof also until its sold.

 

I did nothing with the grommets in the fire wall short of pulling the tubing off the barbed end. The $900.00 dealer installed replacement grommets are there for the remainder of the cars life! They are in such a tough place to access and that's what makes it so hard and expensive to fix.

Same here, mine were probably leaking from the day that purchased the car used with 22,000 miles. I can remember the slight smell even back then. Thought that maybe someone who smoked in the car might have owned it before me.

 

 

 

 

I have a 2011 G37x sedan with very light colored interior and leather seats. Very hard to keep clean even with WeatherTech floor liners. I'm extremely picky about anything that might track dirt onto my interior. That being said completely had me PO when I started getting that foul odor in my car. Along with the foggy windows and the random electrical malfunctions. Then wondering why the carpet was wet to then discovering probably more than 2" of water sitting on the floor pans beneath the carpet. I took this BS problem, POS design on all on my own without any help or advice. Yes, the grommets in the firewall are hard to get to and no I wasn't going to rip out the whole dash to fix it. I did end up ripping out the front and rear seats, center console and the whole carpet from the car. I dried the carpet inside my basement and ran a fan and a dehumidifier inside to dry the interior. As for the leaky grommets, I pulled the A-pillar trim pieces off to trace the drain tubes to find the location of the grommets on the firewall. The passenger side was almost reachable after removing the glovebox entire assembly. I could only manage to get my fingers to touch the grommet. The driver side one I could see through the ac vent hole after removing the vent on the left side of the steering wheel. The way that worked for me for pulling the grommets was using a long flathead screwdriver to push sideways against the grommets as I pulled straight back on the tubes. A little work and they popped out. On the grommets, there's another genius design. They put a pre-clogging plastic piece on the end where the water comes out so any small amount of debris will clog the tubes. It also forces the water to splash out the sides right toward the seal area. I cut the plastic blockers off the ends and used some high temp automotive silicone sealer adhesive applied thick around the grommet where the cheap gaskets are. I also zip tied the tube ends for added strength. I guided the grommets back into the holes by carefully fishing them through with the tubes connected to them and seating them snug by pushing them in with the long screwdriver. Once you get them seated flat against the firewall let them dry. No more leaks after doing that. Just like the typical service manuals say it assembly is the reverse of removal. hope this is of some use to anyone having this issue.

 

Were you able to find out the problem? I'm going through the same thing. Luckily in California, it doesn't rain often. But whenever I do pressure wash the car, I avoid the passenger side window because it'll leak through.

 

 

Thanks for the reply =)