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HELP: Osram Xenarc 66240 CBI Upgrade...Something isn't right!

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Old 01-21-2013, 11:30 AM
  #31  
Abramite
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Good to hear everything worked out.. I had a hunch JT did something wrong. As for the alignment.. My coupe cutoff lines line up.. Yours look staggered. Ive seen cut offs both ways, you can either leave it or raise the drivers side. Your call.
Old 01-21-2013, 06:23 PM
  #32  
dragion
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Originally Posted by Abramite
Good to hear everything worked out.. I had a hunch JT did something wrong. As for the alignment.. My coupe cutoff lines line up.. Yours look staggered. Ive seen cut offs both ways, you can either leave it or raise the drivers side. Your call.
I tried to contact them today, but no answer...maybe they were closed due to MLK day?
I just don't want to go over there and "accuse" them of the damage, wouldn't want to cause a scene. I rather explain to them how the damaged might have occurred and hopefully work it out from there.
It is hard to be civilized with them.

So far, I have not had any oncoming traffic high-beam me or other issues from any driver on the road regarding the lights.
I'm concerned that if I raise the driver's side higher it might be too high...since JT raised the passenger's side.
The cut off of the passenger's side right now falls right under the license plate of the car in front...such as Honda Accords, Toyota Camry...etc.
Is this level seem correct?
If it is, then maybe I should adjust the driver's side a bit higher so the top of the cut off will be level with the bottom cut off on the passenger's side.

Please let me know.

Thanks!
Old 01-21-2013, 06:38 PM
  #33  
Boywdr
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Originally Posted by dragion
I tried to contact them today, but no answer...maybe they were closed due to MLK day?
I just don't want to go over there and "accuse" them of the damage, wouldn't want to cause a scene. I rather explain to them how the damaged might have occurred and hopefully work it out from there.
It is hard to be civilized with them.

So far, I have not had any oncoming traffic high-beam me or other issues from any driver on the road regarding the lights.
I'm concerned that if I raise the driver's side higher it might be too high...since JT raised the passenger's side.
The cut off of the passenger's side right now falls right under the license plate of the car in front...such as Honda Accords, Toyota Camry...etc.
Is this level seem correct?
If it is, then maybe I should adjust the driver's side a bit higher so the top of the cut off will be level with the bottom cut off on the passenger's side.

Please let me know.

Thanks!
call right now they are open....
Old 01-21-2013, 07:14 PM
  #34  
dragion
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Originally Posted by Boywdr
call right now they are open....
Thanks!

Just spoke to Brian over @ JT regarding the issue and we are working out the situation in order to correct the broken clip.

Thanks Brian for your understanding/professionalism regarding this situation and coming up with an agreeable solution.

I will post an update as soon as this issue is resolved.
Old 01-21-2013, 09:13 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by dragion
Thanks!

Just spoke to Brian over @ JT regarding the issue and we are working out the situation in order to correct the broken clip.

Thanks Brian for your understanding/professionalism regarding this situation and coming up with an agreeable solution.

I will post an update as soon as this issue is resolved.
cool....
Old 01-22-2013, 12:37 AM
  #36  
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You guys are nuts! Its so funny to see what people put them selfs through to save a few bills.

To the OP why on earth would you pay $40k plus for a new car then buy new head limp lights then go cheap on the install by going to a half *** hole in the wall place. Why not just go to the dealer and have them install your new lights in the first place. This is why I don't by used cars. You never know what some egg head was doing to it.

Just FYI the PIAA HID lights run at 6600K and have the best light output!

Ballers only!

http://www.piaa.com/store/p/471-D4R-...Hid-Bulbs.aspx

Last edited by GTLAW; 01-22-2013 at 12:44 AM.
Old 01-22-2013, 02:15 AM
  #37  
dragion
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Originally Posted by Boywdr
cool....


Originally Posted by GTLAW
You guys are nuts! Its so funny to see what people put them selfs through to save a few bills.

To the OP why on earth would you pay $40k plus for a new car then buy new head limp lights then go cheap on the install by going to a half *** hole in the wall place. Why not just go to the dealer and have them install your new lights in the first place. This is why I don't by used cars. You never know what some egg head was doing to it.

Just FYI the PIAA HID lights run at 6600K and have the best light output!

Ballers only!

PIAA | D4R Super Cobalt Hid Bulbs #19996
Thanks for sharing the link, but the PIAA's won't work with our HID...D2S bulbs is what fits the Infiniti.
As far as D2S HID bulbs go, either the Osram CBI or SVS are the best out in the market.

Saving a few bucks isn't the question here, but actually non Infiniti OEM parts such as these Osram bulbs is something my Infiniti service would not do.

My situation is not typical, so don't let my experience base your opinion on all speed shops.
Accidents do happen.
There are some really good ones that can be even more knowledgable than the dealer.

I'm just glad that my issues will be addressed and resolved soon.
Old 01-22-2013, 10:24 AM
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6600k is too blue .. Not the color I want on my 40k car. The whiter the better IMO.

D4S bulbs can work in a D2S system, you have to cut a notch in the base of the bulb to match the D2S. But really the only difference is the D4S is mercury free, not worth the money or trouble.

OP if JT screwed with the passenger side, then lower it to match the drivers side.

Then you should be all set.
Old 01-22-2013, 01:22 PM
  #39  
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Sorry here are the PIAA D2S lights!

PIAA Super Cobalt D2S H.I.D.

Right off Tirerack.com for the G37
Old 01-22-2013, 01:24 PM
  #40  
GTLAW
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Originally Posted by Abramite
6600k is too blue .. Not the color I want on my 40k car. The whiter the better IMO.

D4S bulbs can work in a D2S system, you have to cut a notch in the base of the bulb to match the D2S. But really the only difference is the D4S is mercury free, not worth the money or trouble.

OP if JT screwed with the passenger side, then lower it to match the drivers side.

Then you should be all set.
6600K is the Max you would want for a color temp. Your light output is going to be still white with a very small hint of blue. These are not your cheap E bay 6600k lights. I will be placing an order soon for them and will post up pics and reviews.
Old 01-22-2013, 06:30 PM
  #41  
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Idk I think 5000k is right where you want to be. I know Piaa is a good brand, but I prefer the oem stuff..

I would like to see how those 6600k perform
Old 01-22-2013, 06:55 PM
  #42  
dragion
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Originally Posted by Abramite
Idk I think 5000k is right where you want to be. I know Piaa is a good brand, but I prefer the oem stuff..

I would like to see how those 6600k perform
I myself prefer the 5000k of the Osram CBI's too...prefer a bright white without any hint of yellow or blue.
I would think at 6600k, there's got to be a lot of blue hue to them...not as much as 8000k though.

Originally Posted by GTLAW
6600K is the Max you would want for a color temp. Your light output is going to be still white with a very small hint of blue. These are not your cheap E bay 6600k lights. I will be placing an order soon for them and will post up pics and reviews.
Definitely would like to see these on your ride...a detailed review as soon as they are burned in!

I thought $185.00 for a couple of bulbs were expensive, but $350.00...way out of my reach!

So far, with only about 15+ hours on the Osram's, they are looking brighter & whiter.
Can't wait until they are fully burned in and correctly adjusted
Old 01-22-2013, 07:00 PM
  #43  
dragion
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Originally Posted by Abramite
6600k is too blue .. Not the color I want on my 40k car. The whiter the better IMO.

D4S bulbs can work in a D2S system, you have to cut a notch in the base of the bulb to match the D2S. But really the only difference is the D4S is mercury free, not worth the money or trouble.

OP if JT screwed with the passenger side, then lower it to match the drivers side.

Then you should be all set.
The question is that I think the level on the passenger's side is correct...it was too low from the factory.
The headlights cut offs were hitting the lower part of the bumper of the vehicles in front of me.
Now the passenger's side is right under the license plate and the top of the bumper.

I will have to see next week when I have JT "repair" the issue with the headlight and have them adjust them to the correct levels.
Old 01-25-2013, 12:05 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by GTLAW
To the OP why on earth would you pay $40k plus for a new car then buy new head limp lights then go cheap on the install by going to a half *** hole in the wall place. Why not just go to the dealer and have them install your new lights in the first place. This is why I don't by used cars. You never know what some egg head was doing to it.
I was wondering...did you install all your non OEM parts yourself or did Infiniti service do it?
If they did, consider yourself lucky!

My dealership frowns on any non Nissan/Infiniti parts...
Old 01-26-2013, 10:11 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by dragion
I was wondering...did you install all your non OEM parts yourself or did Infiniti service do it?
If they did, consider yourself lucky!

My dealership frowns on any non Nissan/Infiniti parts...
I know Infiniti of Norwood is willing to do it, and I also called and Herb Chambers Infiniti was also willing to do any non OEM upgrades.

The problem is that they charge $125 an hour for labor.


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