Hey Guys,

As it seems that Gallery Gasket health is front and center both here and on the G37 sub-Reddit, I decided to embark on an effort to install a single digital gauge within the interior to monitor both Oil Pressure and Oil Temperature in real time. Yes, the Oil Temperature is available within an OBD PID and can be monitored with an OBD reader and app, but that is not always practical. Our cars only have a pressure sensor that flags oil pressure below 5 PSI (not useful), and I decided not to disconnect or "T" off of that sensor as I believe it adds complexity which scares many away.

My highest priority is to come up with a simple $200-250 "kit" (known good components/tools/relatively simple to setup) that anyone can purchase from Amazon and maybe one other location online then install themselves with a medium level of mechanical ability. It was also important to me that the vendor themselves have good North America based technical support and that other enthusiasts can pick up the phone and call them if needed.

Aesthetic is of course important, but it's a lower priority as my goal is to find a location inside the car that looks almost stock to the untrained eye and can be easily modified with basic skills.

1.
To support the effort, I purchased a "G37 in vent gauge pod for 52MM gauge" from a small company called Trimmed Design: https://www.trimmed-design.com/shop/g37

• I like that the gauge itself can be installed with basic tools and looks somewhat in place within the car if a simple gauge is selected (i.e. almost reminds me of a vent-based air freshener).
• Purchased it yesterday and it has already shipped and I have tracking info
• You will need a small hole saw or spade bit to cut a hole in the vent in order to route the wiring harness:
  Amazon
  Amazon
  • I will figure out which size is optimal when I do the install
• Install Guide here: https://www.trimmed-design.com/installg37pod

2.
For a simple gauge packaged as a kit, I selected the "GlowShift 10 Color Digital Dual Temperature & Pressure Gauge Kit - for Boost, Oil PSI, Water Coolant & Transmission Temp - Includes 1/8-27 NPT Electronic Sensors & Wiring - Multi-Color Display - 52mm" -

• I like that everything needed is packaged and their technical support is best in class (i.e. spent an hour today talking to Anthony at their location in NJ)
• Install Guide here: https://www.glowshift.com/instructio...ture-Gauge.pdf

3.
I also purchased their "GlowShift Oil Filter Sandwich Plate Thread Adapter - 20mm x 1.5 Thread (used on our cars) - Install up to (4) 1/8-27 NPT Oil Pressure & Temperature Sensors - Includes O-Ring & Port Plugs" -

• I understand that there may be a 1-2 PSI loss taking a reading before the filter and that there are potential issues with leaks if not installed correctly. I am trying to get in front of those issues and can post some tips as I go through the process.
• GlowShift sells replacement O-rings for the sandwich plate on their site, and recommend that you replace every 2-3 years
• Teflon tape or liquid thread seal can be used on the (4) 1/8 27 NPT fittings, but they recommend thread tape in case you ever want to change out the fitting (thread seal is a bit more permanent).

4.
I also picked up a couple of their "GlowShift Low Profile Mini Blade Fuse Expandable Circuit Tap Adapter - Includes 4 Amp Fuse - Powers 12 Volt Gauges & Accessories - Installs to Car Truck Fuse Panel" -

• There are cheaper ATT Low Profile Mini (what our cars use) expanders on Amazon, but I want to use theirs because it will help should any support issues come up.

I will continue to add to this thread as I move through the install process.

 

I am thinking about doing the wiring ahead of time as I'm sure there will be caveats based on my conversation with Anthony at GlowShift.

I am still on the fence about how to get the wires through the firewall, but I think the passenger side grommet continues to be the best choice, and I can likely follow the same route my car stereo guy used to install my Amp/Sub.

The gauge I selected has 4 wires that power the gauge through a third wiring harness.

1.
Red - Switched 12V (comes on with the ignition)

2.
Yellow - Unswitched 12V (constant)

• Used to maintain LED colors (not stored in NVRAM), otherwise default is likely blue and will come up each time the car starts
  • Can connect Yellow with Red to the fuse box, but colors will be lost and need to be reset each time the car starts

3.
Orange - Needs a 12V source when lights are on, otherwise needs to be 0V

• Used for dimming
  • Can leave disconnected and unit will always bright and in daytime mode
  • Connect to 12v switched, unit will always be dim

4.
GND - hoping to connect this inside the interior behind the driver side foot panel. Otherwise will need to route back to the battery from inside the car.

Note 1: It's recommended that when the kit is received, test if gauge is functioning correctly by connecting Ground, Red/Yellow to the battery directly
Note 2: The gauge uses about 3A total, so some have found that the fuse box source cannot be used because it cannot supply enough power

• The Low-Profile Mini Blade Fuse Expandable Circuit Tap I mentioned earlier will have one slot for the 4A fuse used for the gauge, then you place the fuse you removed from the fuse panel into the other slot (most expanders work this way)

Note 3: The 7-Color series from GlowShift shares the same wiring harness as the 10 color I purchased, but the newer vert cool looking (but not discrete per my goal) classic gauges are not interchangeable: https://www.glowshiftdirect.com/clas...ressure-gauge/

 

@Rochester @rotarymike @ILM-NC G37S and others, what are your thoughts on the best locations in the fuse panel or under the dash to tap the three 12V sources above?

Do we know the switched (Red) or constant (Yellow) status of the spares in the fuse panel per the Fuse Table below? Seems that finding a source that is only on when the headlights are on will be the trickiest (Orange) as the lights are fused in the IPDM fuse box on the passenger side next to the battery.

Driver Side Footwell:


Next to the battery on the passenger side:

 

The "spares" are just that: empty slots for spare fuses. No power available at either of those slots. You have:
ELEC PARTS (BAT) = 12V+ constant
ELEC PARTS (IGN) = 12V+ switched

As for the 12V+ "switched/ dimming" that you need, you might be able to tap into any of the switches that have the nighttime illumination (VDC switch comes to mind) though, offhand, I am not sure that would work as BCM controls nighttime illumination via the negative (ground) circuit. You would likely have to tap into either the (front) city or side lamps or, alternatively, the (rear) parking or license plate lights. Being you are already running wiring through the firewall this should not a problem.

I would have done something along this vein long ago but there just isn't a proper location in the G's cabin that I would want to put such a eyesore gauge (my opinion). I know rotarymike is doing something in the space where the analog clock is but that wouldn't work for me (NOT getting rid of the clock) nor would me sacrificing a air vent. But, as I proudly and willingly admit, I am a picky SOB.

I had hoped for the longest time that Frank (MotorvateDIY) would have had his project available with the BT/ GTR system, but it seems that any hope of that coming to fruition is fading.

Good luck and keep us updated.

 

I'm sorry, but this stuff is not in my wheelhouse. I don't have anything to offer by way of advice or help.

 

Thanks Alex. I’ve struggled with the location of the gauge as well as I am equally as picky, but also pragmatic and feel that I need to figure out a solution to suppress the ongoing fear around the VQ gallery gaskets. I was also waiting for Frank’s GTR gauges, but I understand what a challenge it must be to take something like this into production.

Compared to a-pillar gauge pods, a 370Z-like gauge cluster that sits atop the center dash speaker and double sided taping a gauge somewhere on the dash, the vent seems the least obtrusive, especially with a black gauge face and bezel. Like you, I’m not interested in giving up the analog clock.

I will post some pictures once the gauge is installed. I have a magnetic phone mount on the other side and air still comes out of the vent despite the phone being attached.

I think that In may just run the gauge full bright or 30% dimmed initially as that extra dimming wire adds more complexity than many will want to tackle. I can make it an extra credit project for someone that feels inspired to find a 12V source driven by the lights 😉

Will verify the fuse selection this weekend, but it looks like both slots you recommended are available per the screen shot below.




.

 

Im always interested in any insight you can provide John.

 

This:

but for oil pressure, is exactly what I would be interested in- I can put that little display anywhere inconspicuous and call it a day... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Anyway, why not just tap everything in the engine bay/ at the IPDM/er and route that single cable (under windshield cowl) through firewall and to the gauge itself? Seems easier that way as you still have to run the signal wire through the firewall...

After last nights "issue" it seems I might have to look into this now... I just wish there was a way we could modify our ECU's to retrofit the oil pressure sending unit from the GT-R. I would bet the function is already there- just needs a config or bin file to "activate." Above my pay grade.

EDITED TO ADD: Been looking at Zada Tech... specifically this Oil Pressure/ Temperature gauge display. They seem to have simple gauge/displays similar to the one posted above and appear to have a strong favourable opinion across many brands (Audi, BMW, Mazda, Subi, etc). Though it isn't cheap at £135 (≈195USD) (£100 for single oil pressure (≈150USD)) not including shipping and the cluck-in-chief's tariffs... smh. Oh well.

Ideally, I would like a display where the "Passenger Airbag" light is (and just move that anywhere). ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

I've obsessed over where to put it for too long. For things like this, we can't allow perfection to become the enemy of the good.

That IPDM fuse box is a PITA, but I may end up using it if I get enough coffee/inspiration going during the install. Which fuse in the IPDM box would provide 12V only when the lights are on (TAIL/(ILLUMI?)? I know which wire on the headlight works because I had to find it when I installed the illuminated LED emblem (gnd to the horn).

 

Finally finished. This was a much larger endeavor than I had initially assumed. Took the entire weekend and multiple trips to Harbor Freight.

Will try to post some pictures with caveats and work arounds soon.

Multiple Jobs inside of a single one:

• Receive Gauges and test directly on the battery (GlowShift recommends this before the install)
• Install the sandwich plate with sensors and run the sensor cables into the engine bay and fasten, then test again
• Run sensor wires and dimming connection from IPDM fuse box (PITA to remove) inside of car on passenger side
• Test again once everything is inside the car on passenger side
• Run cables across the center console to the driver's side, test again
• Run all the power circuity to the fuse box and find a ground
• Extend sensor cables 4' as they were too short
• Install vent mounted gauge, run all wires up through the dash to the vent, test again
• Button everything up and secure/fasten wire bundles
• Clean up the giant mess I made in the garage/car and put away all the new tools, clips, fasteners, etc. that I needed to buy to make all this work

 

Here’s what I started out with:


Unit shipped quickly, was reasonably priced and the install instructions were pretty good.

Here’s the unit shown with the contents of the Glowshift gauge kit. The wire harnesses for the temp and pressure gauges ended up being short, so I extended them 4’ (5 wires total). There is a third power harness.

The sandwich plate adapter with the fittings installed using permatex liquid. Glowshift recommends teflon tape because it’s easier to remove the fittings if needed. I opted for permatex as others online had problems with teflon tape.

Here is the gauge connected to the battery and tested (red and yellow to + and black to -). The tech at Glowshift recommended as he said often a bad gauge is sent out and many wait till the end of the install process to test.

 

Looks ok... what matters most is that you like the overall result and that it does its job. It still befuddles me that NO ONE- save for that Zada Tech place- makes a oil pressure gauge/ display that is simple, discreet, and not frigging 52mm... idk, maybe its me. Still, congrats on a job well done.

Keep us updated on how it performs over time.

 

^^^
That seems like a half-hearted endorsement.

Personally, I think it's a fairly in-your-face gauge, which is a lot when we're talking about oil temp & pressure. Is there a feature where you can tone down the brightness? Or maybe paint black over the top and bottom of the display. You don't need to see logos and stuff all lit up. Or maybe paint the whole lens with a few layers of Nite Shades. Yeah, that's an interesting idea.

Since this seems to be all about trepidation for an impending oil galley gasket failure, is it really something you need to see that loudly 24/7? To that end, I think I would have tucked it somewhere that you could easily see for looking at it, but don't need to see it all the time. Inside the center console maybe?

Also, your car is a 2013, which is after Nissan switched to the gasket material less prone to failure. Are you worried anyway?

Good work overall, though.

 

I have it set to blue, and it dims when the lights are on as designed based on my added IPDM Tail Light circuit addition you recommended. It honestly looks alot better in the car than I had initially thought it would because I went with a low key look.

Also, I was talking to Eugene this evening and he informed me that he has a solution which replaces the pressure switch and can mapped into the Ecutek SW with various fail safes built in.

Interesting to see how the pressure fluctuates with temperature.

 

I'm not worried to be honest John as I don't push my car very hard and I probably could make it 200K miles with the paper gaskets. I just see so much banter and fear online regarding the gallery gaskets, so I took it upon myself to find a tasteful, reasonably low cost DIY for a gauge others could copy if they so choose; 52mm gives people alot of gauge choices should they decide to select something more prominent. When the car is parked, this one is black and looks like one of those vent mounted air fresheners. It also dims 30% at night to blend in with the dash lighting more favorably.

I want to see the gauge while driving, so the center console wasn't an option. I played with some areas under the dash, but it was in the way and actually sticks out more down there.

I will try to post more pics with explanations. Mine is one of the many tech companies forcing people back to the office, so I am losing so much time now commuting 2 hours a day. I haven't had to work in an office since George Bush was in office, so I am trying to find a new process where I don't lose so much productivity.