Long story short after reflashing my ecu with the ecutek dongle my obd2 port went dead. Found it was the fuse by the drivers side footwell behind that plastic box thing in the center. Replaced it and it blew again immediately. Tried a 15 amp just to see what would happen (yes i know its a 10 amp for a reason but it seemed like harmless to try a 15) and now my ignition is dead. Push button does nothing. Battery is still working, and so is key fob. Any help would be appreciated as my charger has decided not to work either now. Just removed the 15 amp and it starts again. Still not sure why it keeps blowing the 10 amp though. Tune needs to be adjusted before its driveable too and i can't do anything with the obd2 port not working.

 

Here's something new. Pulled that 15 amp and the car starts. Put in a 10 amp and the ignition is dead again. Pull it out and it starts. Put it in while the car is running and the tachometer goes dead and the ignition button won't work to turn it off but the analog clock turns but the obd2 is still dead. Pull it out and the gauges light up, ignition works but the analog clock doesn't work. What is going on?

 

There's no less than a dozen 10amp fuses in that junction block. Specifically, which one? ELEC PARTS (BAT) ? ELEC PARTS (IGN)? METER (IGN)?

Any chance the OBD port was damaged?

 

Elec parts bat fuse. I don't think it was damaged but its possible.

 

With nothing plugged into the OBD port, if the PARTS/BAT FUSE (#6) is still "popping," then there has to be a short somewhere between pin 16 at the port and the fuse block. This circuit is always "HOT" / 12V+.

 

Excuse my ignorance but where is pin 16 and what exactly is it?

 

Looking at the OBD port, pin 16 should read a constant 12V+ as this circuit receives power from the ELEC PARTS (BAT) fuse. If the fuse keeps “popping,” especially with nothing plugged into the port, then there is a issue with that circuit being shorted- either at the port or somewhere along the wiring harness.

 

Ah. That explains it. I guess i got some wire tracing to do.

 

From a 2013 FSM, fuse #6 is connected to all below. Any recent mods which may have effected these circuits?

 

Only recent mod that caused issues was the tune. It was while it was uploading through the ecutek dongle and then i had to get a new battery because mine died from the car being on without the engine running. Installed the new battery and went to do some data logging and found it wouldn't connect. At first i thought it was the bluetooth but after trying my diagnostics tool i found the obd2 port wasn't working at all. I don't know what could've happened between the tune uploadng and installing the battery that would have caused this

 

So i tried it again tonight, fuse isn't blowing. When i plug in the ecutek dongle this happens. My z1 obd2 scanner hooks up and reads fine. I guess this means there's something wrong with the ecutek dongle.

 

I think you found the culprit.

 

Yeah. Question is why is not working now vs before the tune and whats going to be done about it. I reached out to z1, hopefully they work with me on this. If not i may part it out or sell it just to pay it off. The tune they sent has it in limp mode and with that piece not working I'm essentially locked out from adjusting it or going back to the stock tune.

 

Did Z1 end up helping you?

 

Yes they did. Sent the dongle back and they replaced it for free. Got my tune all situated and after data logging and revisions got the final tune last Tuesday and its running good. Never did figure out what caused the issue in the first place but everything works now.