Infamous battery drain TSB
Infamous battery drain TSB
Intermittent parasitic drain
Need some brains on what's going on with this car.
Main problem is a parasitic drain of 7-8 every 30s. It goes back to .30 then shoots back up every 30s constantly.
2009 g37 infinity
Got an oil change done and winter tires changed. No issues, car drives well. Day after, battery is dead.
No problem. Got a new battery in and it roars back to life. No CEL etc.
3 days later the battery is low again and dies overnight.(had to go to work)
I replace the battery again and do some digging.
New battery is perfect.
Alternator test shows +14v
So I guess it's not the alternator?
I then proceed to do a parasitic drain test and find that every few seconds it shoots up from .30 to 7.0 constantly.
I've tried the usual culprits. Radio (went down by .1) headlights, etc. Removed remote start. Aftermarket radio. Etc)
Further digging shows something from the infinity forums
https://www.myg37.com/forums/tsb-technical-bulletins/203086-battery-problem-solved.html
Apparently a tsb was sent for 08-09 years. Apparently an emissions valve goes faulty and the ECM thinks it's on triggers it, slowly draining the battery.
Before I go to the dealership who are the only ones who can do the reset on the ECM etc. Is there anything else I am missing?
Video of the parasitic drain:
https://vimeo.com/773007976
Need some brains on what's going on with this car.
Main problem is a parasitic drain of 7-8 every 30s. It goes back to .30 then shoots back up every 30s constantly.
2009 g37 infinity
Got an oil change done and winter tires changed. No issues, car drives well. Day after, battery is dead.
No problem. Got a new battery in and it roars back to life. No CEL etc.
3 days later the battery is low again and dies overnight.(had to go to work)
I replace the battery again and do some digging.
New battery is perfect.
Alternator test shows +14v
So I guess it's not the alternator?
I then proceed to do a parasitic drain test and find that every few seconds it shoots up from .30 to 7.0 constantly.
I've tried the usual culprits. Radio (went down by .1) headlights, etc. Removed remote start. Aftermarket radio. Etc)
Further digging shows something from the infinity forums
https://www.myg37.com/forums/tsb-technical-bulletins/203086-battery-problem-solved.html
Apparently a tsb was sent for 08-09 years. Apparently an emissions valve goes faulty and the ECM thinks it's on triggers it, slowly draining the battery.
Before I go to the dealership who are the only ones who can do the reset on the ECM etc. Is there anything else I am missing?
Video of the parasitic drain:
https://vimeo.com/773007976
First, welcome to the forum. Excellent diagnostics thus far...
Just because the alternator is showing 14V when it is running does not mean that it is not the problem when it is "OFF." A bad/ dying diode can cause a battery drain issue as well. When a diode fails, voltage is allowed to flow backwards which in turn causes the alternator to "think" it is still "ON." After 13 years, I would be more inclined to suspect the alternator than I would the VCV.
Here is what I would suggest: With the battery fully charged and the car off:
Be sure to completely disconnect the NEGATIVE battery cable BEFORE reattaching the "B" terminal to the alternator.
Just because the alternator is showing 14V when it is running does not mean that it is not the problem when it is "OFF." A bad/ dying diode can cause a battery drain issue as well. When a diode fails, voltage is allowed to flow backwards which in turn causes the alternator to "think" it is still "ON." After 13 years, I would be more inclined to suspect the alternator than I would the VCV.
Here is what I would suggest: With the battery fully charged and the car off:
- disconnect battery NEGATIVE cable;
- remove the battery positive wire at the alternator ("B" terminal) and completely isolate it from any bare metal to prevent arcing;
- perform your drain test once again.
Be sure to completely disconnect the NEGATIVE battery cable BEFORE reattaching the "B" terminal to the alternator.
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; Nov 20, 2022 at 03:17 PM.
First, welcome to the forum. Excellent diagnostics thus far...
Just because the alternator is showing 14V when it is running does not mean that it is not the problem when it is "OFF." A bad/ dying diode can cause a battery drain issue as well. When a diode fails, voltage is allowed to flow backwards which in turn causes the alternator to "think" it is still "ON." After 13 years, I would be more inclined to suspect the alternator than I would the VCV.
Here is what I would suggest: With the battery fully charged and the car off:
Be sure to completely disconnect the NEGATIVE battery cable BEFORE reattaching the "B" terminal to the alternator.
Just because the alternator is showing 14V when it is running does not mean that it is not the problem when it is "OFF." A bad/ dying diode can cause a battery drain issue as well. When a diode fails, voltage is allowed to flow backwards which in turn causes the alternator to "think" it is still "ON." After 13 years, I would be more inclined to suspect the alternator than I would the VCV.
Here is what I would suggest: With the battery fully charged and the car off:
- disconnect battery NEGATIVE cable;
- remove the battery positive wire at the alternator ("B" terminal) and completely isolate it from any bare metal to prevent arcing;
- perform your drain test once again.
Be sure to completely disconnect the NEGATIVE battery cable BEFORE reattaching the "B" terminal to the alternator.
There are a few things you can try. They will require you to mess with the harness
One of the first things to check is voltage of the car. Monitor your battery voltages as you drive and get familiar with them. They should hit 14s at some point but also no lower than 12.8 at any points.
Second you should locate your evap sensors at the rear of the vehicle and disconnect the Evap Vent solenoid and monitor the drain. I have a small Noid/LED light that fits into 2 pin connectors.
You can leave a light in this connector while the vehicle is off and see if it turns on at any point. With the valve off this will let you know if you're going through this TSB or not. Fix is to replace this valve.
One of the first things to check is voltage of the car. Monitor your battery voltages as you drive and get familiar with them. They should hit 14s at some point but also no lower than 12.8 at any points.
Second you should locate your evap sensors at the rear of the vehicle and disconnect the Evap Vent solenoid and monitor the drain. I have a small Noid/LED light that fits into 2 pin connectors.
You can leave a light in this connector while the vehicle is off and see if it turns on at any point. With the valve off this will let you know if you're going through this TSB or not. Fix is to replace this valve.
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