Help 2010 g37x electrical problems
2010 g37x electrical problems
Can I contact anyone I have a few questions on my 2010 g37x PROBLEMS
I picked it up for cheap from a guy he says it was dead sitting for awhile and he tried changing the battery now the only light on the dash that flashes on is the red security light on the right of the dash.
I checked all the fuses and positive terminal fuses and they’re good.
The doors lock/unlock with the key and when I put the key in the key fob nothing pops up on the dash only the push to start lights up on OFF. (CANT GO IN ACCESORIES)
Replaced key fob battery also
I believe it could be the steering lock module? Or a blown ecm somehow.
I picked it up for cheap from a guy he says it was dead sitting for awhile and he tried changing the battery now the only light on the dash that flashes on is the red security light on the right of the dash.
I checked all the fuses and positive terminal fuses and they’re good.
The doors lock/unlock with the key and when I put the key in the key fob nothing pops up on the dash only the push to start lights up on OFF. (CANT GO IN ACCESORIES)
Replaced key fob battery also
I believe it could be the steering lock module? Or a blown ecm somehow.
2010 g37x
For some reason, the push start button would not react to me pushing it at all, and the car wouldn’t start. Even when I put the key fob in the slot left of the steering wheel, it wouldn’t even signal that my key is in it.
It wouldn’t even let me switch it to ACC or ON position. The typical orange lights that show which position the ignition is in we’re not on either.
I also noticed that on my dashboard, the red securityindicator warning light was flashing. It looks like a car with a key symbol inside it. That was the only light I had showing on my dashboard.
When I would press the lock button on my key fob, the car would lock but the typical horn that comes after it wouldn’t make a sound.
The door button to lock and unlock my car still works while i’m standing next to the car with my key fob, so I don’t think it’s an issue of my key fob being disconnected from the car.
When I click the alarm button on my key, the alarm does not go off at all. I even checked to make sure the horn was still working, and it is.
I searched everywhere online, some people said it could be something with the BCM, in which I checked the BCM fuse in the fuse box to the left of the battery, and it was fine. Some people said to leave the battery completely disconnected for 10 minutes. That didn’t work.
It wouldn’t even let me switch it to ACC or ON position. The typical orange lights that show which position the ignition is in we’re not on either.
I also noticed that on my dashboard, the red securityindicator warning light was flashing. It looks like a car with a key symbol inside it. That was the only light I had showing on my dashboard.
When I would press the lock button on my key fob, the car would lock but the typical horn that comes after it wouldn’t make a sound.
The door button to lock and unlock my car still works while i’m standing next to the car with my key fob, so I don’t think it’s an issue of my key fob being disconnected from the car.
When I click the alarm button on my key, the alarm does not go off at all. I even checked to make sure the horn was still working, and it is.
I searched everywhere online, some people said it could be something with the BCM, in which I checked the BCM fuse in the fuse box to the left of the battery, and it was fine. Some people said to leave the battery completely disconnected for 10 minutes. That didn’t work.
The first thing people usually say in here is to check the passenger footwell for water. The sunroof drain which runs down the A-pillar on that side is notorious for leaking water onto your BCM and cause multiple weirdness.
Next spot to check would be the IPDM near the battery. That's another place that you don't want to be getting wet. There are also many fuses in that box which you may need to check through as several of the car's systems are powered from there.
Let us know what you find.
Next spot to check would be the IPDM near the battery. That's another place that you don't want to be getting wet. There are also many fuses in that box which you may need to check through as several of the car's systems are powered from there.
Let us know what you find.
Contact
Is it okay if I contact you through text messages? I’m still pretty new and have some more questions. I checked and I didn’t see any water in the passenger area but I will verify in the morning.
The RED SECURITY light flashing is normal. If it was solid then that would be a issue. Again, FLASHING is NORMAL.
Do the headlights turn you turn the light switch to ON, not AUTO? Rear BRAKE lights when you push the pedal down?
Does the clock work? Seats move?
Are you able to turn the steering wheel or is it locked?
It is a 2010. Based on the symptoms you provided thus far, the ESCL (steering lock) likely failed. And being that the car sat unused for a extended period of time, gives more indication that the ESCL has seized (the grease used in these modules was the issue- hardening/ oozing).
There are a ton of threads on here (and other Nissan car forums) about this issue. You can try tapping on the module to see if it miraculously unlocks. If it does then you can disable the ESCL while the engine is running and forget that issue forever. If it does NOT release, then you will have to look into either replacing the ESCL (which is expensive) or the possibility of using a emulator.
Do the headlights turn you turn the light switch to ON, not AUTO? Rear BRAKE lights when you push the pedal down?
Does the clock work? Seats move?
Are you able to turn the steering wheel or is it locked?
It is a 2010. Based on the symptoms you provided thus far, the ESCL (steering lock) likely failed. And being that the car sat unused for a extended period of time, gives more indication that the ESCL has seized (the grease used in these modules was the issue- hardening/ oozing).
There are a ton of threads on here (and other Nissan car forums) about this issue. You can try tapping on the module to see if it miraculously unlocks. If it does then you can disable the ESCL while the engine is running and forget that issue forever. If it does NOT release, then you will have to look into either replacing the ESCL (which is expensive) or the possibility of using a emulator.
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; Oct 22, 2022 at 09:49 AM.
Update
The RED SECURITY light flashing is normal. If it was solid then that would be a issue. Again, FLASHING is NORMAL.
Do the headlights turn you turn the light switch to ON, not AUTO? Rear BRAKE lights when you push the pedal down?
Does the clock work? Seats move?
Are you able to turn the steering wheel or is it locked?
It is a 2010. Based on the symptoms you provided thus far, the ESCL (steering lock) likely failed. And being that the car sat unused for a extended period of time, gives more indication that the ESCL has seized (the grease used in these modules was the issue- hardening/ oozing).
There are a ton of threads on here (and other Nissan car forums) about this issue. You can try tapping on the module to see if it miraculously unlocks. If it does then you can disable the ESCL while the engine is running and forget that issue forever. If it does NOT release, then you will have to look into either replacing the ESCL (which is expensive) or the possibility of using a emulator.
Do the headlights turn you turn the light switch to ON, not AUTO? Rear BRAKE lights when you push the pedal down?
Does the clock work? Seats move?
Are you able to turn the steering wheel or is it locked?
It is a 2010. Based on the symptoms you provided thus far, the ESCL (steering lock) likely failed. And being that the car sat unused for a extended period of time, gives more indication that the ESCL has seized (the grease used in these modules was the issue- hardening/ oozing).
There are a ton of threads on here (and other Nissan car forums) about this issue. You can try tapping on the module to see if it miraculously unlocks. If it does then you can disable the ESCL while the engine is running and forget that issue forever. If it does NOT release, then you will have to look into either replacing the ESCL (which is expensive) or the possibility of using a emulator.
When I press hazards I see the blinkers on the outside but no blinkers on the dash.
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No.
Once your put your old ESCL back in, the car will be locked again. YOUR module must be UNLOCKED before you pull the fuse. The ESCL does two things:
When UNLOCKED, the ESCL sends a GO signal to the BCM and the car starts.
Puling the fuse when the ESCL is UNLOCKED, prevents the ESCL solenoid from LOCKING and essentially puts the ESCL in a permanent GO condition.
Once your put your old ESCL back in, the car will be locked again. YOUR module must be UNLOCKED before you pull the fuse. The ESCL does two things:
- PHYSICALLY locks the steering wheel, and
- Sends a GO or NO GO signal to the BCM to start the car.
When UNLOCKED, the ESCL sends a GO signal to the BCM and the car starts.
Puling the fuse when the ESCL is UNLOCKED, prevents the ESCL solenoid from LOCKING and essentially puts the ESCL in a permanent GO condition.
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; Oct 22, 2022 at 02:50 PM.
No.
Once your put your old ESCL back in, the car will be locked again. YOUR module must be UNLOCKED before you pull the fuse. The ESCL does two things:
When UNLOCKED, the ESCL sends a GO signal to the BCM and the car starts.
Puling the fuse when the ESCL is UNLOCKED, prevents the ESCL solenoid from LOCKING and essentially puts the ESCL in a permanent GO condition.
Once your put your old ESCL back in, the car will be locked again. YOUR module must be UNLOCKED before you pull the fuse. The ESCL does two things:
- PHYSICALLY locks the steering wheel, and
- Sends a GO or NO GO signal to the BCM to start the car.
When UNLOCKED, the ESCL sends a GO signal to the BCM and the car starts.
Puling the fuse when the ESCL is UNLOCKED, prevents the ESCL solenoid from LOCKING and essentially puts the ESCL in a permanent GO condition.
Yes, the ESCL could still be a issue. There just is no way to know the condition of the circuit boards inside the module.
If the wheel is currently unlocked, it should lock again when you lock the car. If it doesn't then the ESCL is not responding.
There are several things you can try. This post has a few suggestions (and video).
I would put the key fob into the slot and keep beating the hell out of the ESCL with a rubber mallet while repeatedly pressing the START button. You might get lucky. If not, and the steering wheel is unlocked, you could consider the ESCL emulator.
Unfortunately, there just is no easy fix once the module dies. This is why EVERYONE should pull that damn fuse while the car is on! It is the only guaranteed insurance policy against this issue.
If the wheel is currently unlocked, it should lock again when you lock the car. If it doesn't then the ESCL is not responding.
There are several things you can try. This post has a few suggestions (and video).
I would put the key fob into the slot and keep beating the hell out of the ESCL with a rubber mallet while repeatedly pressing the START button. You might get lucky. If not, and the steering wheel is unlocked, you could consider the ESCL emulator.
Unfortunately, there just is no easy fix once the module dies. This is why EVERYONE should pull that damn fuse while the car is on! It is the only guaranteed insurance policy against this issue.
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; Oct 22, 2022 at 04:00 PM.
For thread continuity, OP asked me via PM, on how to remove the ESCL and what options are there for replacements. My response to him:
"This video shows how to remove the module from a 370Z. It is the same for all Nissans and for the G37.
All early Nissan and Infiniti used the same ESCL module until around 2011/2012. It doesn't matter if you have a Coupe or Sedan, AWD or RWD.
I would first try removing the module and see if you can get the mechanism to work. If not, I would see if there was a used one on eBay or maybe a emulator. I would try for a used unit first- you just need the car to start one time so you can pull the fuse while the engine is running.
Brand new from Infiniti the module will run you, AT LEAST, $700 (discountinfinitiparts- ESCL)."
***Folks- to anyone reading this- if you own a 2008-2012 please consider pulling the STEER LOCK fuse in the IPDM while your engine is running (ON). While this demon may never impact you, if it ever does it will leave you stranded and take a huge bite out of your wallet. Pulling this fuse permanently assures this issue will never have a chance to strike. Just my 10¢... take it for what you will...
"This video shows how to remove the module from a 370Z. It is the same for all Nissans and for the G37.
All early Nissan and Infiniti used the same ESCL module until around 2011/2012. It doesn't matter if you have a Coupe or Sedan, AWD or RWD.
I would first try removing the module and see if you can get the mechanism to work. If not, I would see if there was a used one on eBay or maybe a emulator. I would try for a used unit first- you just need the car to start one time so you can pull the fuse while the engine is running.
Brand new from Infiniti the module will run you, AT LEAST, $700 (discountinfinitiparts- ESCL)."
***Folks- to anyone reading this- if you own a 2008-2012 please consider pulling the STEER LOCK fuse in the IPDM while your engine is running (ON). While this demon may never impact you, if it ever does it will leave you stranded and take a huge bite out of your wallet. Pulling this fuse permanently assures this issue will never have a chance to strike. Just my 10¢... take it for what you will...
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; Oct 24, 2022 at 10:19 AM.
For thread continuity, OP asked me via PM, on how to remove the ESCL and what options are there for replacements. My response to him:
"This video shows how to remove the module from a 370Z. It is the same for all Nissans and for the G37. video
All early Nissan and Infiniti used the same ESCL module until around 2011/2012. It doesn't matter if you have a Coupe or Sedan, AWD or RWD.
I would first try removing the module and see if you can get the mechanism to work. If not, I would see if there was a used one on eBay or maybe a emulator. I would try for a used unit first- you just need the car to start one time so you can pull the fuse while the engine is running.
Brand new from Infiniti the module will run you, AT LEAST, $700 (discountinfinitiparts- ESCL)."
***Folks- to anyone reading this- if you own a 2008-2012 please consider pulling the STEER LOCK fuse in the IPDM while your engine is running (ON). While this demon may never impact you, if it ever does it will leave you stranded and take a huge bite out of your wallet. Pulling this fuse permanently assures this issue will never have a chance to strike. Just my 10¢... take it for what you will...
"This video shows how to remove the module from a 370Z. It is the same for all Nissans and for the G37. video
All early Nissan and Infiniti used the same ESCL module until around 2011/2012. It doesn't matter if you have a Coupe or Sedan, AWD or RWD.
I would first try removing the module and see if you can get the mechanism to work. If not, I would see if there was a used one on eBay or maybe a emulator. I would try for a used unit first- you just need the car to start one time so you can pull the fuse while the engine is running.
Brand new from Infiniti the module will run you, AT LEAST, $700 (discountinfinitiparts- ESCL)."
***Folks- to anyone reading this- if you own a 2008-2012 please consider pulling the STEER LOCK fuse in the IPDM while your engine is running (ON). While this demon may never impact you, if it ever does it will leave you stranded and take a huge bite out of your wallet. Pulling this fuse permanently assures this issue will never have a chance to strike. Just my 10¢... take it for what you will...
This is the one from the videos.
This is how it looks in my car
I’m very new to infinitis and really can’t find a way to get it removed. And I’m wondering if the bolts are above it someway? The video looks super easy to remove but mine is like positioned differently.
to anyone reading this- if you own a 2008-2012 please consider pulling the STEER LOCK fuse in the IPDM while your engine is running (ON). While this demon may never impact you, if it ever does it will leave you stranded and take a huge bite out of your wallet. Pulling this fuse permanently assures this issue will never have a chance to strike. Just my 10¢... take it for what you will...
Technically, no. But, because Nissan fumbled this issue- like many- it created much confusion as to when Nissan initiated the parts revision to remove the physical locking portion of the module and went strictly electronic. At least Nissan addressed the issue- eventually. Infiniti ignored it (like the dash pad issue). From a previous post I made:
"The original issue with the ESCL was that "too much grease" was used in the manufacturing process. Over a short time, this grease leaked onto the printed circuit board which ultimately "fried" the module. Nissan's answer, for those affected vehicles, was to replace the ESCL (Lock) with a ESCB (Box) module (p/n: 48708-9N00A). This module handled all the NATS/IVIS functions that the ESCL did but did NOT mechanically lock the steering wheel. At the time the module was ≈$60 vs. the $500 ESCL.
While this issue technically only affected 2009/2010 models, it stands to reason that some of those faulty parts were still in the bin and ended up in some 2011's- depends on the cars build date, perhaps. IIRC, there are a couple of posts on the forum from members with 2011 ESCL failures."
It is simple to check. With car OFF and LOCKED, are you able to turn the steering wheel? And/Or do you hear a loud "clank" noise when you press the START button?
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; Oct 24, 2022 at 03:16 PM.
There are two anti-theft "breakaway" bolts that hold the module to the column. These bolts will not have a head where you can easily remove them. It will be VERY difficult to the get them out. Most folks use a small chisel and hammer to loosen them while others use a small dremel-type tool to cut a notch in the top of the bolt and unscrew it out that way. Thankfully these bolts are not super-tight so it should come out easily once you get them broken loose.
Technically, no. But, because Nissan fumbled this issue- like many- it created much confusion as to when Nissan initiated the parts revision to remove the physical locking portion of the module and went strictly electronic. At least Nissan addressed the issue- eventually. Infiniti ignored it (like the dash pad issue). From a previous post I made:
"The original issue with the ESCL was that "too much grease" was used in the manufacturing process. Over a short time, this grease leaked onto the printed circuit board which ultimately "fried" the module. Nissan's answer, for those affected vehicles, was to replace the ESCL (Lock) with a ESCB (Box) module (p/n: 48708-9N00A). This module handled all the NATS/IVIS functions that the ESCL did but did NOT mechanically lock the steering wheel. At the time the module was ≈$60 vs. the $500 ESCL.
While this issue technically only affected 2009/2010 models, it stands to reason that some of those faulty parts were still in the bin and ended up in some 2011's- depends on the cars build date, perhaps. IIRC, there are a couple of posts on the forum from members with 2011 ESCL failures."
It is simple to check. With car OFF and LOCKED, are you able to turn the steering wheel? And/Or do you hear a loud "clank" noise when you press the START button?
Technically, no. But, because Nissan fumbled this issue- like many- it created much confusion as to when Nissan initiated the parts revision to remove the physical locking portion of the module and went strictly electronic. At least Nissan addressed the issue- eventually. Infiniti ignored it (like the dash pad issue). From a previous post I made:
"The original issue with the ESCL was that "too much grease" was used in the manufacturing process. Over a short time, this grease leaked onto the printed circuit board which ultimately "fried" the module. Nissan's answer, for those affected vehicles, was to replace the ESCL (Lock) with a ESCB (Box) module (p/n: 48708-9N00A). This module handled all the NATS/IVIS functions that the ESCL did but did NOT mechanically lock the steering wheel. At the time the module was ≈$60 vs. the $500 ESCL.
While this issue technically only affected 2009/2010 models, it stands to reason that some of those faulty parts were still in the bin and ended up in some 2011's- depends on the cars build date, perhaps. IIRC, there are a couple of posts on the forum from members with 2011 ESCL failures."
It is simple to check. With car OFF and LOCKED, are you able to turn the steering wheel? And/Or do you hear a loud "clank" noise when you press the START button?
I might be getting it towed to Infiniti.



