AC Compressor not kicking on after Intake/Grounding kit install
AC Compressor not kicking on after Intake/Grounding kit install
Looking for some guidance on where to start troubleshooting my AC issue. A few days ago I put on Stillen Gen 2 intakes, and yesterday followed a DIY for the Stillen grounding kit copycat. It’s been relatively chilly here in South Florida so I hadn’t even noticed the AC not blowing cold until the girlfriend pointed it out last night. Unfortunately that means I’m not sure which install might have killed it. The heat works fine, and it blows air very strong but I haven’t heard the AC clutch kick on and I’m not getting any cool air.
On the intake end my best guess is I may have damaged an AC line when trying to pop the cone at the bottom of the filter enclosure into the slot underneath. That or something is rubbing and damaged a line. However it was ice cold just a few days ago, so I’m not sure that rubbing could’ve killed it so quickly. I’m also not sure if that would cause the clutch to not kick on at all.
On the grounding kit end my best guess is that something is making contact that shouldn’t be, or I possibly blew a fuse or a relay.
I’d rather not have to pull both mods off if there are steps I can check first; I’d also prefer not to explain I’m a dumbass and broke it to a professional unless absolutely necessary 😅
On the intake end my best guess is I may have damaged an AC line when trying to pop the cone at the bottom of the filter enclosure into the slot underneath. That or something is rubbing and damaged a line. However it was ice cold just a few days ago, so I’m not sure that rubbing could’ve killed it so quickly. I’m also not sure if that would cause the clutch to not kick on at all.
On the grounding kit end my best guess is that something is making contact that shouldn’t be, or I possibly blew a fuse or a relay.
I’d rather not have to pull both mods off if there are steps I can check first; I’d also prefer not to explain I’m a dumbass and broke it to a professional unless absolutely necessary 😅
First, run the IPDM/er self-test. This will tell you if the AC compressor magnetic clutch is working. If you hear the compressor clicking then that part of the system is good. If the clutch does NOT click, then you start checking fuses and wiring connectors.
Assuming the compressor/ clutch is good, the next step would be to check all of the wiring connectors that you have diredtly/indirectly fiddled with. In that area are the:
1) refrigerant pressure sensor,
2) ECV unit,
3) ambient temperature sensor, and
4) AC clutch.
Either may have been accidentally disconnected or not reattached properly.
From there, if the AC system still does not kick in, then you will need to have the refrigerant (commonly called "Freon" (incorrectly)) pressures checked. If the refrigerant level is low the compressor will not kick on, or may short cycle.
Double check your refrigerant lines especially where the Stillen intakes are installed. This has always been a common issue with those things.
Assuming the compressor/ clutch is good, the next step would be to check all of the wiring connectors that you have diredtly/indirectly fiddled with. In that area are the:
1) refrigerant pressure sensor,
2) ECV unit,
3) ambient temperature sensor, and
4) AC clutch.
Either may have been accidentally disconnected or not reattached properly.
From there, if the AC system still does not kick in, then you will need to have the refrigerant (commonly called "Freon" (incorrectly)) pressures checked. If the refrigerant level is low the compressor will not kick on, or may short cycle.
Double check your refrigerant lines especially where the Stillen intakes are installed. This has always been a common issue with those things.
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; Dec 1, 2021 at 09:28 AM.
Exactly what I was looking for, thanks! Would most of those sensors and other things locations be listed in the AC section of the FSM or the AC control section? (I think those were the two I saw)
FSM sections:
HA (Heating & AC) - covers the physical side of the system (ie. the hardware); whereas
HAC (Htg & AC Control System) - covers the electronic aspect of the system including the various self-testing/ built-in diagnostic functions.
The sensors will be listed in both sections.
HA (Heating & AC) - covers the physical side of the system (ie. the hardware); whereas
HAC (Htg & AC Control System) - covers the electronic aspect of the system including the various self-testing/ built-in diagnostic functions.
The sensors will be listed in both sections.
Fastest way you'll find out if you busted a line is to press on the schrader valve (A/C needle valve) and see if there is pressure in the system. If nothing comes out then you killed a line.
Where in South FL are you? Im in Ft. Lauderdale. American Auto Exports will have that line if you need it. Junk yards can be tough since most are front end damaged.
Where in South FL are you? Im in Ft. Lauderdale. American Auto Exports will have that line if you need it. Junk yards can be tough since most are front end damaged.
I’m actually right in downtown lauderdale, I drive by there almost everyday. I won’t have a chance to sit down and troubleshoot for a couple days but I’ll keep it in mind if that’s the case. I’m hoping for something simple like a fuse right now
Sure enough I was flat zero on r134, got it filled and compressor clicked on no problem. I checked all the lines and no leaks, so next task will be tracking down where I’m losing it. Thinking it may not have been anything I did, just a coincidence on timing.
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To Bull's point, the AC system on these cars is pre-charged with UV dye from the factory. If you have a UV light (aka "blacklight,") you can use that to pinpoint the source of the leak.
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