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Instrument Cluster Repaired / Red to white screen swap
I completed this swap this weekend after my original red display in my 2007 started to go bad at around 146k miles. Figured i'd make a post as I have seen a LOT of posts referencing wrong information about where the odometer is stored.
Screen failure started off small....
Within less than 1 week it turned into this:
This video is helpful for removing the cluster, as well as the IP section in the FSM
So i sourced a cluster off eBay from a 2011 G25 to salvage for parts. I wanted to keep my old style italic cluster faces, while also keeping the white screen if possible. Initially I had read a bunch of posts that claimed that the odometer is stored IN the center screen module, so I wasted a lot of time swapping the boards from the screens over only to realize that this was NOT the case. The odometer is stored in the large / main PCB with the actual needles on it, NOT the screen PCB!
Another thing to note, if you are ONLY changing the LCD you can do this without taking off the needles.
Comparison of 2007 and 2011 faces.
2007 vs 2011 needles.
Screen PCB comparison. The old red display uses 12 LEDs while the white one only uses 6 white LEDs. You can use either board on any model year as far as I can tell. All compatible.
Better look at the failure, really weird looking.
The final result. 2007 cluster / face with 2011 needles and white LCD. Mileage remains 100% intact.
Bonus, the donor cluster put back together with the bad parts. I got it to work on an arduino. Might use it for a racing sim or something?
Really good info. Thanks for clarifying where the ODO mileage is saved. IIRC, the LCD only has 1 or 2 ribbon cables attaching it to the main board, yes?
If only the main LED's were as easy to replace....
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; Sep 28, 2020 at 11:13 AM.
LCD has 1 ribbon connecting it to the main board, yep. And there are 2 ribbons and 1 2 pin connector if you want to remove the screen from the screen PCB.
I actually wanted to change the needle LEDs from red to blue while I was at it, but I didn't have any on hand It would be a lot of delicate soldering work as well.
Well, i screwed it up by pushing the tach needle down too far, and it slipped while I was driving
Meaning I had to take it all apart to fix it but I decided to change the needle LEDs while I was at it. Picked up a hot air rework station of amazon, recommend anyone attempting this to use one also.
My cluster is losing LED's at an alarming rate. But based on what you are saying, I'd have to reprogram if I replaced the entire cluster because the mileage will be on the main pcb of the existing "bad" cluster. Does that sound accurate to you?
My cluster is losing LED's at an alarming rate. But based on what you are saying, I'd have to reprogram if I replaced the entire cluster because the mileage will be on the main pcb of the existing "bad" cluster. Does that sound accurate to you?
Detail
Yeah, the mileage is on the PCB of your cluster with "bad" LEDs. Reprogramming is not possible so in your case I would suggest soldering all new LEDs onto the PCB.
Do you just pry up the lcd from the main board? I was in there today was too scared to start prying. I couldn’t see any bad wiring or connections otherwise. My lcd is only visible with a flashlight
Do you just pry up the lcd from the main board? I was in there today was too scared to start prying. I couldn’t see any bad wiring or connections otherwise. My lcd is only visible with a flashlight
No, it should be held on by some screws from the back side. I find it really weird that your LCD works but the whole backlight died... something on that LCD board must have died. I would suggest getting another cluster off eBay for parts and swapping over the LCD board.
First you unclip the clear part from the front, then you peel back the odometer face a little bit to access the screws. Black rear panel doesn't come off, everything comes out from it.
It would be a lot of delicate soldering work as well.
