What's a good set of 6.5 component speakers for around $300? I haven't bought speakers in a while and the number of choices is overwhelming. I'm getting started replacing the Blose system in my 08 G37 Coupe and will welcome all the advice/opinions/criticism I can get.
Thanks, Sam

 

You're right - a ton of choices available!

I have a pair of 6.75" Morel components that are sitting in my basement. I don't mind the Bose in my 2011 and after listening to a variety of music it's realistic and balanced (natural) sounding so I may not touch it. Plus - it'd be a challenge to get the same bass from a pair of 6's that the factory 10s produce in the doors.

Interested in what you find and the end result.

-Eric

 

what is it you like and don't like about the factory system? Is the sound quality okay, but you want it louder? Is it actually lack of tuning ability you don't like? Is it just missing low end extension?

I ask this because engineering teams spend hundreds of thousands of dollars developing speakers and amplifiers and speaker placement to work best with each vehicle. It is very difficult to actually improve sound for a couple hundred bucks with premium systems like we have.

Listen to 3 or 4 of your favorite tracks in the car, windows up, not driving, and determine what's not right with it.

 

I'm putting a pair of 10" Dayton subs with a Zapco 1650 amp (700 rms) in the trunk. I think that'll take care of the 10's in the doors. I'm going to do away with the 6x9's in the package tray too.

 

Boomy, weak, hollow bass. Gritty, anemic highs. Muddy mids. The whole setup runs out of gas and clarity at half power, after that it's like fingernails on a blackboard. Factory engineering teams didn't design this system, the so-called engineers at Blose did. Infiniti spent very little and charged us very much for the privilege of listening to some of the cheapest drivers that money can buy and amps that are tweaked and equalized to keep said cheapo drivers from melting at anything approaching half power. Have you ever seen a Bose speaker? It's a cheap little paper thing with cloth surrounds and no magnet. It's something you'd pay $5 for at a generic electronics warehouse which is where Bose probably got them. I replaced the Bose system in my 04 Mazda 6s and the difference was stunning, first stereo system I ever tossed in the garbage. OTOH why would you listen/audition/evaluate the sound of a car system with the car stationary and the engine off? Personally I listen to mine while I'm driving.
Regards, Sam

 

I'm a 27-year veteran of the car audio industry. My most recent job was with JL Audio. Yes, I've seen a Bose speaker. Paper speakers are very common, and have a distinct and warm sound. In fact, most speakers are some sort of paper. Many car audio manufacturers have gone to mica or plastic to save costs because it takes time and skill to properly manufacture a paper cone. But the very best, and most expensive, speakers in the world all use paper cones. The magnet/motor of the Bose speakers in our car are neodymium. Granted, they are prone to heat soak (they will lose magnetism) our systems are incapable of making the kind of power and heat necessary to do this. Neodymium has 48 times the magnetism of ferrite magnets. They can be significantly smaller and have the same BL (magnetic force). They spend more for the neodymium to save weight.

On an RTA the signal response curve of our cars is essentially flat. The tweeters are actually very clear. The biggest issue with the system is that they tried to get it to respond too low, so it can sound muddy. If you use a crossover on the front midbass, and eliminate the rear deck speakers, then the addition of a subwoofer will clear this up for you.

I recommended listening while not moving so you can hear what you like or don't like without outside noise influence.

I think I have an idea of what you're looking for, and simply changing speaker is not going to make it better for you. What I'd recommend is removing the factory amp, taking the front 2 channel signal, and amplifying it. It's 12Hz-26kHz flat out of the radio, and can be plugged directly into an amplifier or processor (solder on RCA connectors).

Save up for a complete system, or do it a piece at a time, so you don't have to buy anything twice. Do it correctly the first time, and you won't waste money.

I'd start with a sub, and go from there. The Bose amplifier doesn't have enough power to do what you want.

Remember, doubling power adds 3dB, so 4 times power adds 6dB (double then double again). the Bose amp drives about 25RMS to the midbass, and about 15RMS to the mid/tweet.

 

That's how I did my Mazda. I added RCA's to the head unit preout wiring into two Audio Control two channel line drivers that converted the balanced preamp signal to unbalanced for the Orion XTR5004 four channel amp to eliminate noise which it did. That system was dead quiet. I have no intention of keeping the Bose amps. I'm using the Orion four channel (took it out of the Mazda when I sold it) and a Zapco for the subs. I'm also going to use an Audio Control line driver again to convert the balanced preout signal from the oem head unit. I thought about doing a three way comp setup for the front but will probably go with a two way and eliminate the sail panel tweeters replacing the Bose mid with a tweeter in that position in the door. I could run six speakers from the Orion (80 watts rms to four channels at 4 ohms) but I think it would tax the amp too much to do so. I'm disconnecting the 6x9's also. The only parts I lack are the comps for the doors, I've got everything else. I just can't decide on what to buy. I'm not interested in anything with less than 91db sensitivity and tweeters smaller than one inch. Thanks for your input, much appreciated. If I'm making any mistakes please don't hesitate to correct me. I still don't like the sound of the Bose vs aftermarket.
Regards, Sam

 

Focal has a less expensive line. I love ETON and Diamond Audio, both probably not in that range.

I have mentioned a company that I wish made audio for our cars. They only make for Tesla's. Light Harmonic - High Performance Digital Source Components I know, non in the budget, just saying. There are enough cars out there, they must think they can't beat Bose fidelity...lol.


This is interesting.

 

The head unit does not send a balanced signal. You won't need anything between the HU and the amplifier. The factory head unit has 4 channels out: front left, front right, rear left, and rear right. The Bose amplifier upmixes and processes the signal for all the damned speaker in that car.

If you have all the parts EXCEPT front speakers, I would recommend bi-amping and using an active XO. You seem like you prefer LOUD. Passive crossovers are the devil. I hate them. A proper processor will allow you to control every aspect of your sound without guessing. Find one you like with a PC interface so you can tune from the front seat...your listening position.

I know I'm biased, but I really like the TwK88 from JL. it's relatively inexpensive, and a seriously powerful processor. go to the Jl site, download the software for free (not a limited software...the whole package) and play with it in simulation mode.

As for front components, in the $300 mid-fi range, stick to what you know. Speakers are very subjective. What I think is amazing you may hate. close your eyes when you listen. It will force your brain to use your ears more.

 

In reading up on this HU I read in a couple of threads that the output from the HU was balanced hence the line drivers. I had them left over from the Mazda so it isn't a loss. The HU in the Mazda was definitely balanced, it buzzed like crazy until I switched to unbalanced output in the Audio Controls. I don't necessarily like loud but I've learned from my home stereo that power brings out low level detail at lesser volumes. I've got a tube analog rig for music and a digital rig for audio/video in my house. You're right about there being a lot of damn speakers in this car. 3.5 inch mids in the rear passenger area, why bother? I'll definitely look into the JL gear you mentioned, looks interesting. I'm an old retired fossil (so old I saw Jimi Hendrix live, twice) but I still enjoy tinkering with this stuff and learning new things. I can go a bit more on speakers if need be, budgets usually end up being a suggestion instead of a set limit.

 

I have a set of new DLS components that I bought with the intention of installing in my G but they've sat there for ages and it's not going to happen. I don't remember exactly which model they are (Ultimate Iridium 3 way maybe?) but I did a lot of listening and research before purchasing them. If you have any interest in them let me know and I'll pull them out of the closet and get you details. Under $300; if you want them. PM me.

 

The signal from the head unit is definitely not a balanced signal.

 

Sent you a PM.
Sam

 

I have a set of MB Quartz available. 6.5" components if you are interested

 

Which model are they?