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Help! Sub + amp install factory nose system.

Old Aug 8, 2017 | 11:43 PM
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Tim134219
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Help! Sub + amp install factory nose system.

I have a 2012 g37x coupe with the Nose system and I'm trying to wire up 2 kicker 12s and a kicker cxa600.1 mono block with a kisloc line out converter. I took it to a local shop to have the loc installed and when I finished putting the subs,amp ,remote, ground, and power. It sounds horrible! It only let's me connect one RCA, IF I connect both rca' s the subs don't move or maske any noise. If I only connect one rca it moves the subs slightly with distorted bass. I'm putting 659 watts rms since the subs are dvc 2ohm subs and have them wired to a 2ohm impedance so they should be moving and producing a good amount of clean bass. It's in a sealed enclosure. Any help would be appreciated. Would have done myself but I just had surgery on my left wrist so that why I took to a audio shop.
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Old Aug 9, 2017 | 04:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Tim134219
I have a 2012 g37x coupe with the Nose system and I'm trying to wire up 2 kicker 12s and a kicker cxa600.1 mono block with a kisloc line out converter. I took it to a local shop to have the loc installed and when I finished putting the subs,amp ,remote, ground, and power. It sounds horrible! It only let's me connect one RCA, IF I connect both rca' s the subs don't move or maske any noise. If I only connect one rca it moves the subs slightly with distorted bass. I'm putting 659 watts rms since the subs are dvc 2ohm subs and have them wired to a 2ohm impedance so they should be moving and producing a good amount of clean bass. It's in a sealed enclosure. Any help would be appreciated. Would have done myself but I just had surgery on my left wrist so that why I took to a audio shop.

1.) replace the "N" key on your keyboard with a "B" - its "Bose", not "Nose".

2.) why the LOC? you have preamp signals accessible from the HU at the Bose amp. LOC's convert speaker-level signals to preamp ... the Bose amp adds some of its weird EQ, so you don't want to send the converted speaker-level signal to your aftermarket amp. Posi-tap the preamp wires, and connect them to your amp.

what you're doing is ....

preamp level --->[BOSE AMP] ---> speaker level --->[LOC]---> preamp level--->[NEW AMP]--->speaker level
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Old Aug 9, 2017 | 12:18 PM
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Do not go back to that shop---EVER!
Ditch the LOC---it is not needed.
Tap the signal at the amp as Landshark mentions. Run those lines directly to the amp and you shall have sound galore!

I would direct you to my Build Thread, but Photobucket sucks *****.

EDIT: Just checked and it appears pics are back! https://www.myg37.com/forums/build-t...ml#post4052591
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Old Aug 9, 2017 | 01:45 PM
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Like the others mentioned, remove the LOC and tap directly into the signal going to the amp. Lots of posts here that mention it.
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Old Aug 15, 2017 | 04:32 PM
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Here is a picture of the wiring diagram used to my single 10 inch sub. The shops/installers will almost always want to use a LOC but they don't know any better than to follow general practice. I gave my installer this diagram and he followed it exactly. I recommend you do the same.

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Old Aug 16, 2017 | 02:46 PM
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^This. Excellent post.
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Old Aug 17, 2017 | 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by JHunG37
Here is a picture of the wiring diagram used to my single 10 inch sub. The shops/installers will almost always want to use a LOC but they don't know any better than to follow general practice. I gave my installer this diagram and he followed it exactly. I recommend you do the same.


good diagram, but i would not tap the rear speaker wiring .... i did originally, and then found out the rear speakers are mainly for "fill" - had to have my powered sub turned almost all the way up. i changed it to tap the front speakers, and while not a drastic change, the powered sub does not have to be cranked and is a bit louder.

the front speaker preamp signals on the B41 harness to tap are:

front right + (red) = 33
front right - (green) = 34
front left + (pink) = 35
front left - (blue) = 36
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