So I am just seeing if anyone here can verify what I am wanting to do. I have been a decent amount of research on what to do for car audio installs in my 2013 G37x with navi and bose audio.

I know that the head unit is very valuable and I plan on just using the Audio Control LC7i for the better SQ. Then as for speakers I would start with the front doors having Kicker 40CSS654. Then the rear doors would be Kicker 40CS654. As for power I had planned on going with the Pioneer GM-D8604. And for subs I already have a pair of P2's, 12", in the trunk. I am getting a custom fit box already pre built to replace the current sub box I have installed now.

Problem:
My on real concern is the installed bose amp.. I know I am going to have to play with the wires and find out what signal goes to which speaker. Now should I completely rip out the bose amp?? Some of the wire signals seem rather important. Would I just solderer new connections? This is my only concern for this install. Other than that I feel rather confident on taking apart my car and installing everything.

I also just joined the community and want to say greetings to all!!

 

If you have the BOSE amp on the car, then the head unit don't have an audio power amp. The signal that come's from the head unit is a low power signal, not strong enough to power a speaker. Take this in consideration when choosing the aftermarket amp. The new amp must have the low power input option (RCA).

As for the signal wires on BOSE amp connector, you can find them on the service manual.
There are some other things to consider:
-With BOSE option, there is a main BOSE amp for the speakers and a separate AMP for the woofer.
-The OEM speakers are 1 OHM speakers. So if you plan to use any of the OEM speakers, the new AMP must support 1 OHM speakers.
Most AMP's do not support such low impedance speakers
-The OEM speakers are shallow speakers so replacing them with standard size speakers will be a P.I.T.A

-The BOSE amp use Power, Ground, Signal IN, Signal OUT(for speakers), Woofer OUT, Remote power and Driver Stage signals. No data signals connected to BOSE amp so replacing the amp won't cause other problems on the car.

In my opinion, the best option to change the audio quality, will be to add some singal processing unit between the head unit and the AMP and keep the stock BOSE AMP and speakers

 

Will the output of the HU not be enought to give signal to the LC7i? I thought I would give the signal from the LC7i from that point and send it to a aftermarket amp to power speakers.

 

This is an interesting recommendation. Tell me more... I happen to like the BOSE in my G37. way better than both of my G35 V35 Sedans ever sounded and way better than the crappy Q50.

 

As i see, LC7i require speaker level inputs. I don't think the HU with BOSE configuration will give such output level.
The only way to find out is to test it the LC7i with the HU.

Also PLZ read carefully what i posted above about speakers.
That is VERY IMPORTANT if you plan to use an aftermarket AMP.

 

The G37 sedan BOSE sound system is nice but the G37 convertible BOSE sound system is way better

 

The Art of JDM Sound - G37S Sedan Show/SQ install (170+pics) - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum

A fair bit of information in this thread. Complete stereo replacement except for the stock headunit.

 

yeah... they use signal amp, DSP then the speaker AMP

 

Thank you for the understanding (: Now I know what to do to replace my audio system! I'm really just not feeling the Bose. Hate it honestly..

 

i didn't feel like tearing my car up, so i just added a powered, sealed enclosure sub.

the Bose speakers are not bad - its the EQ that is applied by the amp that jacks up the sound.

if you have Bluetooth audio and a rooted Android phone, Viper4Android app makes the stock system actually sound pretty good. you can correct the muddy bass and harsh brittle treble that Bose apparently thinks sounds good.

 

Yeah I gotcha, I actually messed up at first and got a ported box with subs that generally sound better sealed haha but I can't do the app due to not being able to root a Verizon HTC 10.. I'm not up for sending my phone in to get it part way done (thanks a lot Verizon).. But thank you everyone for the help and suggestions.

 

you could just buy a cheap used phone on Swappa or ebay (possibly one that was already rooted). scratches/cracks - who cares - it will live in the armrest.
Samsung Galaxy S4 16GB 4G LTE T-Mobile Smartphone SGH-M919, Rooted, CRACKED | eBay

i used an ancient Droid Bionic. i'm currently using an old iPhone 5c, but my rooted Note 3 will replace it when i get a new phone (had a Note 7 on order, then the whole B.S. exploding phone thing happened ).

you might want to get some sort of extended battery so its not dead if you don't drive the car for a few days.
5600mAh Extended Battery for Samsung Galaxy S 4 IV i9500 Black Cover | eBay

 

I like the recommendation but I think I'm just going to wait it out for now. I'm not rushing anything. Patients is key (:

 

just saying, a few bucks for a rooted phone and a free app is better than $$$$ and tearing your entire car apart.

maybe a friend has a rooted phone you could try it on? after i added the powered sub and did the Viper4Android, i decided not to rip out the audio system and drop big bucks on replacing speakers and amps.

 

I'll give it a shot. Ill see if I can do it. Ill let you know how it goes (:
I'm guessing night and day difference? If that is the case, I might just get an LCi2 and call it good.