V1 Hardwire:

There is nothing new in this install, it is just specific to a Valentine 1.
It does have more details on some things that I had to research so hopefully you wont have to.

1. Buy a Blendmount: Yes they cost a bit but so does the G37 and you owe it to yourself and your poor G37 to not have suction cups as a mount....
https://store.blendmount.com/all-inf...ors-c2869.aspx
Here is a coupon also so you can save some money!
BlendMount | J28 Design Inc. - Friend Offer
It will look seamless, OEM and professional.





2. Buy a low profile mini fuse tap/piggy back





Here is a link to purchase:
Unfortunately our cars use the smallest ....its a Low-Profile Fuse and I could not find any autoparts store locally that carried an add a fuse piggy back for this size.





3. Once you install the blendmount (its easy). Run the line supplied with your V1 above the headliner....fits perfectly. No struggling.






4. Squeeze the line into the area where the pillar meets the headliner. It fits and you do NOT need to remove it. But you can if you want...




5. Run line down the side to the fuse box location on the drivers side.





6. Remove the kick plate and dash side finisher/fuse panel side trim. You need to remove these to gain access to the ground location and have more room. The kick panel is fairly easy to lift up just make sure you lift up slowly so you dont break any of the clips etc. The fuse panel side trim has two clips and a screw on cap.






7. Now that you have those removed and your line from the V1 is in the fuse area. You need to hardwire it to the fuse box. Go get the hardwire that you recieved from V1, clip the fuse portion off. Its unnnecessary because your using a piggy back fuse tap. Now strip the red line a bit, get the add a fuse and cut off the blue quick connection part. Strip the line bit ...now twist the two lines together... Solder them and heatshrink.
Note: you can use the blue quick connect if you dont want to solder..this will work fine. However, I have found that over time this way of connecting two wires can sometimes come loose. Soldering then heatshrinking will not....


Note: there are two places marked on the V1 line unit...ACC and MAIN plug into "MAIN".

8. Attach the ground wire. 10MM bit of a pain to get to this location but you can do it!





9. Pull the Audio/Mirror fuse circled in green, take your piggy back fuse tap and remove the audio/mirror fuse and plug in the 10A fuse that you removed and add another 10A for the V1..then plug the piggy back fuse tap into the fuse box..see picture.
10.Tuck the wires away and then put the fuse panel side trim and kick panel back on ...








11. Your Valentine will now start up when you start the car....thats it! ....Now go DRIVE FAST...

 

Great write up brother!

 

Thanks! I have done a hardwire Valentine one install on the last 4 cars I have owned so its getting easy.....

 

Same here! Mine is a '99 model V1 and still heating up the interior! Did you get the 001 blendmount? Mine is mounted above the rear view mirror.

 

Yep I got the 001. The 002 has some kinda plastic OEM piece.

 

How does that mount? Double sided tape? Can you post a pic of the back of the mirror/mount?

 

It has a two clasps that go around the mirror stock and uses two bolts to tighten very secure no tape nothing ...I will get a pic...

 

All metal, no cheap plastics, no tape, fully adjustable in multiple angles!

 

That is an awesome product and thanks for the pic. They should have that pic on their site! And if someone could make an inline adapter to plug and play a V1 into the mirror, gold!

 

They do...but I had it on my Vette and hated it threw it away in the garbage where it belongs. It was unstable it would go off when I hit a bump or randomly. Thats why I only hardwire them now....I mean a radar detector needs to work all the time to work.

 

I tapped into the mirror. Was that not an option?

 

Read my post above yours...

V1 comes with a hardwire kit so it costs you less then a "mirror tap" product. It also is more reliable and has less probability of coming loose like a mirror tap product.

 

Not trying to derail your post & effort, but for those that don't have that wiring kit, my mirror tap has been flawless going on 4 years. The mini blade model fits very snug & takes 60 seconds to install.

 

I've used the mirror tap for years and never had an issue.

I've also used the hard wire kit.

Both work fine, just make sure each is installed properly.

I use the suction cups now. The mirror mounts move to much when you have a decent sub set up =)

 

Your right about a decent sub setup. I use the suction cups now and it vibrates so bad that it rattles! Can't fix it either.