Adding a Subwoofer to your G37 sedan W/ BOSE
09-15-2018, 01:45 PM
#94
I'm trying this now
the amp remote turn on is not working as you warned
When car is running it reads 12v
When car is acc it reads 7 volts
When car running and the remote is split between Bose and aftermarket it reads 6 volts
which is not enough to turn on the additional amp
Hmmmm
Ok
Did some searching
I'm trying to use a fosgate amp
Switched amps turn on works
Looks like I'll be using this 4 channel us acoustics bridged
oh
Folks report fosgate amps need the full 12v for turn on
the amp remote turn on is not working as you warned
When car is running it reads 12v
When car is acc it reads 7 volts
When car running and the remote is split between Bose and aftermarket it reads 6 volts
which is not enough to turn on the additional amp
Hmmmm
Ok
Did some searching
I'm trying to use a fosgate amp
Switched amps turn on works
Looks like I'll be using this 4 channel us acoustics bridged
oh
Folks report fosgate amps need the full 12v for turn on
09-18-2018, 10:39 AM
#95
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I've had a sub in the trunk for a while now and it works well. However for some of the music I listen to I really like using the DSS (Driver Staging thing) option but it almost completely cuts out the sub. I don't know exactly what DSS is doing but I assume it just moves most of the sound from the back to the front and slightly to the right. Has anyone found a way to compensate for this? Either pulling the amp inputs from the front speakers or getting a more powerful amp?
06-20-2019, 02:40 PM
#96
Registered Member
Alright ladies and gents… after searching different threads and even forums I finally got my system working the way it should. So now i am going to share it on here hoping I can help after seeing all the confusing posts and questions. Here are some pics and steps.
AFTER running your power wire and ground wire to the trunk, or wherever you want to keep your amp, you need to tap into the factory audio system.
(i already buttoned up all that before i started this thread so i will not be ripping apart the interior panels to take pics again lol. I will post how i got it through the fire wall though)
1st --- you need to expose the factory amps that are mounted to the ceiling of the trunk by removing the top cover/carpet. Use a sharp flat head screw driver to pop out the 3-4 clips holding it in. Once you remove the clips and drop the cover you will see the amps in the Left corner. the aluminum finned looking things!
Attachment 135844
NOW, unplug the right harness that you see in this photo by pressing in the small plastic lock (located in the middle of the clip on the bottom side) and pulling towards the back of the car. You will tap into this side so open up the black wrapping and pull it back to expose the wires.
Attachment 135845
2nd --- You’re going to need to tap into a total of 5 wires. Here are the wires you’re going to use for a signal along with the diagram. The letters on the left symbolize the color of the wires.
BR -Brown
V - Violet
SB - Sky blue
Y - Yellow
W - White
Attachment 135846
Attachment 135847
IMPORTANT if your amp is sensitive or needs at least 12 volts for a turn on signal to work, then #20 will not work because the BOSE amp only receives about 10.5 volts when the car is running for its turn on signal.
Using 18 gauge wire, I tapped into the factory harness using wire taps and then twisted the L(+-) and the R(+-) together so i would not get them confused.
Attachment 135848
3rd --- Get a regular set of RCA cables and cut one end off of the RCA’s. (i only needed about 5 feet so i “measured” 5ft from the end i was keeping)
Attachment 135849
NEXT strip each side of the RCA wires very carefully. you will find two small wires under each side of the cable. mine were wrapped around each other but i just separated them.Attachment 135850
THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!! DO NOT MIX THIS UP
The insulated wire in the RCA cables are going to be positive and the non-insulated wire is negative. I used butt splices for the RCAS because i didn’t want to take the time to solder them into the factory harness.
one side of the RCA cable is LEFT (+ , -) and the other side is RIGHT (+ , -)
The left ( + , -) will connect to the Sky blue and violet (factory amp) wires that you tapped into.
The right (+ , -) will connect to the brown and yellow (factory amp) wires that you tapped into.
Attachment 135851
There are others way to go about adding a sub, but IMO this is the best way. The bose head unit sends a low input signal to the bose amp in the trunk which is also what most aftermarket amps look for at the RCA inputs. This is great because you dont need a line output converter. A line output converter, or LOC, is used whenever your taking high signals (speakers or full range) and converting them to low signals for an amplifier input which is then amplified and sent out to the sub (this way can sound like crap at times depending on your LOC or setup). AFter setting my amp and sub up the way I did, I was super happy with the results! Sounds clean, loud, and responsive.
Whenever you adjust the bass setting on your head unit this will also change the signal going into the amp so it will still work! I wanted full control so I added a bad **** but the head unit is a good way to adjust if you're not going from one extreme to the other.
If anyone finds typos, issues, or something else please let me know. I will also help anyone where i can. Just post and ask. Hop this helps out my fellow VQ brothers and sisters.
Phil
AFTER running your power wire and ground wire to the trunk, or wherever you want to keep your amp, you need to tap into the factory audio system.
(i already buttoned up all that before i started this thread so i will not be ripping apart the interior panels to take pics again lol. I will post how i got it through the fire wall though)
1st --- you need to expose the factory amps that are mounted to the ceiling of the trunk by removing the top cover/carpet. Use a sharp flat head screw driver to pop out the 3-4 clips holding it in. Once you remove the clips and drop the cover you will see the amps in the Left corner. the aluminum finned looking things!
Attachment 135844
NOW, unplug the right harness that you see in this photo by pressing in the small plastic lock (located in the middle of the clip on the bottom side) and pulling towards the back of the car. You will tap into this side so open up the black wrapping and pull it back to expose the wires.
Attachment 135845
2nd --- You’re going to need to tap into a total of 5 wires. Here are the wires you’re going to use for a signal along with the diagram. The letters on the left symbolize the color of the wires.
BR -Brown
V - Violet
SB - Sky blue
Y - Yellow
W - White
Attachment 135846
Attachment 135847
IMPORTANT if your amp is sensitive or needs at least 12 volts for a turn on signal to work, then #20 will not work because the BOSE amp only receives about 10.5 volts when the car is running for its turn on signal.
Using 18 gauge wire, I tapped into the factory harness using wire taps and then twisted the L(+-) and the R(+-) together so i would not get them confused.
Attachment 135848
3rd --- Get a regular set of RCA cables and cut one end off of the RCA’s. (i only needed about 5 feet so i “measured” 5ft from the end i was keeping)
Attachment 135849
NEXT strip each side of the RCA wires very carefully. you will find two small wires under each side of the cable. mine were wrapped around each other but i just separated them.Attachment 135850
THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!! DO NOT MIX THIS UP
The insulated wire in the RCA cables are going to be positive and the non-insulated wire is negative. I used butt splices for the RCAS because i didn’t want to take the time to solder them into the factory harness.
one side of the RCA cable is LEFT (+ , -) and the other side is RIGHT (+ , -)
The left ( + , -) will connect to the Sky blue and violet (factory amp) wires that you tapped into.
The right (+ , -) will connect to the brown and yellow (factory amp) wires that you tapped into.
Attachment 135851
There are others way to go about adding a sub, but IMO this is the best way. The bose head unit sends a low input signal to the bose amp in the trunk which is also what most aftermarket amps look for at the RCA inputs. This is great because you dont need a line output converter. A line output converter, or LOC, is used whenever your taking high signals (speakers or full range) and converting them to low signals for an amplifier input which is then amplified and sent out to the sub (this way can sound like crap at times depending on your LOC or setup). AFter setting my amp and sub up the way I did, I was super happy with the results! Sounds clean, loud, and responsive.
Whenever you adjust the bass setting on your head unit this will also change the signal going into the amp so it will still work! I wanted full control so I added a bad **** but the head unit is a good way to adjust if you're not going from one extreme to the other.
If anyone finds typos, issues, or something else please let me know. I will also help anyone where i can. Just post and ask. Hop this helps out my fellow VQ brothers and sisters.
Phil
06-21-2019, 07:52 AM
#97
I've had a sub in the trunk for a while now and it works well. However for some of the music I listen to I really like using the DSS (Driver Staging thing) option but it almost completely cuts out the sub. I don't know exactly what DSS is doing but I assume it just moves most of the sound from the back to the front and slightly to the right. Has anyone found a way to compensate for this? Either pulling the amp inputs from the front speakers or getting a more powerful amp?
07-02-2019, 09:07 PM
#98
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I thank you, Gregor12, for pointing me in the right direction. I installed a small (8 inch) power sub in my 2015 Q40 AWD. Though it's no competition sound system, I was able to keep all the Bose equipment and add the extra bump I was looking for. I spliced to the sub signal and the sub amp (remote) and it's working perfectly. I ran a large gauge wire (4 gauge) from the battery to the trunk just in case I decide to make further changes. Having the service manual and wiring experience (avionics technician) certainly helped.
I took many pictures and plenty of notes if anyone else is interested. However, Gregor12, certainly helped me get the ball rolling and for that I am grateful.
deborinquen
San Antonio, TX
I took many pictures and plenty of notes if anyone else is interested. However, Gregor12, certainly helped me get the ball rolling and for that I am grateful.
deborinquen
San Antonio, TX
Last edited by deborinquen; 07-02-2019 at 09:16 PM.
07-31-2019, 09:00 PM
#99
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Just wanted to say thanks for this. Just spent the evening installing my sub. I've been without since I traded in my z for the g. Will be ordering posi taps to get things tidied up. My rcas when splitting them were both covered with an extremely hard plastic so I have them in there but it's not as secure as I'd like. Ran into an issue of no sound to the sub and it's because the taps I bought, ones you originally suggested, couldnt cut through the wire properly. Got a 12" sundown sa12 with 1200 watts going to it. 2 cubic feet box ported and tuned to 32hz. This Thing pounds.
07-20-2020, 01:42 PM
#100
Alright ladies and gents… after searching different threads and even forums I finally got my system working the way it should. So now i am going to share it on here hoping I can help after seeing all the confusing posts and questions. Here are some pics and steps.
AFTER running your power wire and ground wire to the trunk, or wherever you want to keep your amp, you need to tap into the factory audio system.
(i already buttoned up all that before i started this thread so i will not be ripping apart the interior panels to take pics again lol. I will post how i got it through the fire wall though)
1st --- you need to expose the factory amps that are mounted to the ceiling of the trunk by removing the top cover/carpet. Use a sharp flat head screw driver to pop out the 3-4 clips holding it in. Once you remove the clips and drop the cover you will see the amps in the Left corner. the aluminum finned looking things!
Attachment 135844
NOW, unplug the right harness that you see in this photo by pressing in the small plastic lock (located in the middle of the clip on the bottom side) and pulling towards the back of the car. You will tap into this side so open up the black wrapping and pull it back to expose the wires.
Attachment 135845
2nd --- You’re going to need to tap into a total of 5 wires. Here are the wires you’re going to use for a signal along with the diagram. The letters on the left symbolize the color of the wires.
BR -Brown
V - Violet
SB - Sky blue
Y - Yellow
W - White
Attachment 135846
Attachment 135847
IMPORTANT if your amp is sensitive or needs at least 12 volts for a turn on signal to work, then #20 will not work because the BOSE amp only receives about 10.5 volts when the car is running for its turn on signal.
Using 18 gauge wire, I tapped into the factory harness using wire taps and then twisted the L(+-) and the R(+-) together so i would not get them confused.
Attachment 135848
3rd --- Get a regular set of RCA cables and cut one end off of the RCA’s. (i only needed about 5 feet so i “measured” 5ft from the end i was keeping)
Attachment 135849
NEXT strip each side of the RCA wires very carefully. you will find two small wires under each side of the cable. mine were wrapped around each other but i just separated them.Attachment 135850
THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!! DO NOT MIX THIS UP
The insulated wire in the RCA cables are going to be positive and the non-insulated wire is negative. I used butt splices for the RCAS because i didn’t want to take the time to solder them into the factory harness.
one side of the RCA cable is LEFT (+ , -) and the other side is RIGHT (+ , -)
The left ( + , -) will connect to the Sky blue and violet (factory amp) wires that you tapped into.
The right (+ , -) will connect to the brown and yellow (factory amp) wires that you tapped into.
Attachment 135851
There are others way to go about adding a sub, but IMO this is the best way. The bose head unit sends a low input signal to the bose amp in the trunk which is also what most aftermarket amps look for at the RCA inputs. This is great because you dont need a line output converter. A line output converter, or LOC, is used whenever your taking high signals (speakers or full range) and converting them to low signals for an amplifier input which is then amplified and sent out to the sub (this way can sound like crap at times depending on your LOC or setup). AFter setting my amp and sub up the way I did, I was super happy with the results! Sounds clean, loud, and responsive.
Whenever you adjust the bass setting on your head unit this will also change the signal going into the amp so it will still work! I wanted full control so I added a bad **** but the head unit is a good way to adjust if you're not going from one extreme to the other.
If anyone finds typos, issues, or something else please let me know. I will also help anyone where i can. Just post and ask. Hop this helps out my fellow VQ brothers and sisters.
Phil
AFTER running your power wire and ground wire to the trunk, or wherever you want to keep your amp, you need to tap into the factory audio system.
(i already buttoned up all that before i started this thread so i will not be ripping apart the interior panels to take pics again lol. I will post how i got it through the fire wall though)
1st --- you need to expose the factory amps that are mounted to the ceiling of the trunk by removing the top cover/carpet. Use a sharp flat head screw driver to pop out the 3-4 clips holding it in. Once you remove the clips and drop the cover you will see the amps in the Left corner. the aluminum finned looking things!
Attachment 135844
NOW, unplug the right harness that you see in this photo by pressing in the small plastic lock (located in the middle of the clip on the bottom side) and pulling towards the back of the car. You will tap into this side so open up the black wrapping and pull it back to expose the wires.
Attachment 135845
2nd --- You’re going to need to tap into a total of 5 wires. Here are the wires you’re going to use for a signal along with the diagram. The letters on the left symbolize the color of the wires.
BR -Brown
V - Violet
SB - Sky blue
Y - Yellow
W - White
Attachment 135846
Attachment 135847
IMPORTANT if your amp is sensitive or needs at least 12 volts for a turn on signal to work, then #20 will not work because the BOSE amp only receives about 10.5 volts when the car is running for its turn on signal.
Using 18 gauge wire, I tapped into the factory harness using wire taps and then twisted the L(+-) and the R(+-) together so i would not get them confused.
Attachment 135848
3rd --- Get a regular set of RCA cables and cut one end off of the RCA’s. (i only needed about 5 feet so i “measured” 5ft from the end i was keeping)
Attachment 135849
NEXT strip each side of the RCA wires very carefully. you will find two small wires under each side of the cable. mine were wrapped around each other but i just separated them.Attachment 135850
THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!! DO NOT MIX THIS UP
The insulated wire in the RCA cables are going to be positive and the non-insulated wire is negative. I used butt splices for the RCAS because i didn’t want to take the time to solder them into the factory harness.
one side of the RCA cable is LEFT (+ , -) and the other side is RIGHT (+ , -)
The left ( + , -) will connect to the Sky blue and violet (factory amp) wires that you tapped into.
The right (+ , -) will connect to the brown and yellow (factory amp) wires that you tapped into.
Attachment 135851
There are others way to go about adding a sub, but IMO this is the best way. The bose head unit sends a low input signal to the bose amp in the trunk which is also what most aftermarket amps look for at the RCA inputs. This is great because you dont need a line output converter. A line output converter, or LOC, is used whenever your taking high signals (speakers or full range) and converting them to low signals for an amplifier input which is then amplified and sent out to the sub (this way can sound like crap at times depending on your LOC or setup). AFter setting my amp and sub up the way I did, I was super happy with the results! Sounds clean, loud, and responsive.
Whenever you adjust the bass setting on your head unit this will also change the signal going into the amp so it will still work! I wanted full control so I added a bad **** but the head unit is a good way to adjust if you're not going from one extreme to the other.
If anyone finds typos, issues, or something else please let me know. I will also help anyone where i can. Just post and ask. Hop this helps out my fellow VQ brothers and sisters.
Phil
03-22-2022, 11:06 AM
#101
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Adding a amp to factory head unit
Alright ladies and gents… after searching different threads and even forums I finally got my system working the way it should. So now i am going to share it on here hoping I can help after seeing all the confusing posts and questions. Here are some pics and steps.
AFTER running your power wire and ground wire to the trunk, or wherever you want to keep your amp, you need to tap into the factory audio system.
(i already buttoned up all that before i started this thread so i will not be ripping apart the interior panels to take pics again lol. I will post how i got it through the fire wall though)
1st --- you need to expose the factory amps that are mounted to the ceiling of the trunk by removing the top cover/carpet. Use a sharp flat head screw driver to pop out the 3-4 clips holding it in. Once you remove the clips and drop the cover you will see the amps in the Left corner. the aluminum finned looking things!
Attachment 135844
NOW, unplug the right harness that you see in this photo by pressing in the small plastic lock (located in the middle of the clip on the bottom side) and pulling towards the back of the car. You will tap into this side so open up the black wrapping and pull it back to expose the wires.
Attachment 135845
2nd --- You’re going to need to tap into a total of 5 wires. Here are the wires you’re going to use for a signal along with the diagram. The letters on the left symbolize the color of the wires.
BR -Brown
V - Violet
SB - Sky blue
Y - Yellow
W - White
Attachment 135846
Attachment 135847
IMPORTANT if your amp is sensitive or needs at least 12 volts for a turn on signal to work, then #20 will not work because the BOSE amp only receives about 10.5 volts when the car is running for its turn on signal.
Using 18 gauge wire, I tapped into the factory harness using wire taps and then twisted the L(+-) and the R(+-) together so i would not get them confused.
Attachment 135848
3rd --- Get a regular set of RCA cables and cut one end off of the RCA’s. (i only needed about 5 feet so i “measured” 5ft from the end i was keeping)
Attachment 135849
NEXT strip each side of the RCA wires very carefully. you will find two small wires under each side of the cable. mine were wrapped around each other but i just separated them.Attachment 135850
THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!! DO NOT MIX THIS UP
The insulated wire in the RCA cables are going to be positive and the non-insulated wire is negative. I used butt splices for the RCAS because i didn’t want to take the time to solder them into the factory harness.
one side of the RCA cable is LEFT (+ , -) and the other side is RIGHT (+ , -)
The left ( + , -) will connect to the Sky blue and violet (factory amp) wires that you tapped into.
The right (+ , -) will connect to the brown and yellow (factory amp) wires that you tapped into.
Attachment 135851
There are others way to go about adding a sub, but IMO this is the best way. The bose head unit sends a low input signal to the bose amp in the trunk which is also what most aftermarket amps look for at the RCA inputs. This is great because you dont need a line output converter. A line output converter, or LOC, is used whenever your taking high signals (speakers or full range) and converting them to low signals for an amplifier input which is then amplified and sent out to the sub (this way can sound like crap at times depending on your LOC or setup). AFter setting my amp and sub up the way I did, I was super happy with the results! Sounds clean, loud, and responsive.
Whenever you adjust the bass setting on your head unit this will also change the signal going into the amp so it will still work! I wanted full control so I added a bad **** but the head unit is a good way to adjust if you're not going from one extreme to the other.
If anyone finds typos, issues, or something else please let me know. I will also help anyone where i can. Just post and ask. Hop this helps out my fellow VQ brothers and sisters.
Phil
AFTER running your power wire and ground wire to the trunk, or wherever you want to keep your amp, you need to tap into the factory audio system.
(i already buttoned up all that before i started this thread so i will not be ripping apart the interior panels to take pics again lol. I will post how i got it through the fire wall though)
1st --- you need to expose the factory amps that are mounted to the ceiling of the trunk by removing the top cover/carpet. Use a sharp flat head screw driver to pop out the 3-4 clips holding it in. Once you remove the clips and drop the cover you will see the amps in the Left corner. the aluminum finned looking things!
Attachment 135844
NOW, unplug the right harness that you see in this photo by pressing in the small plastic lock (located in the middle of the clip on the bottom side) and pulling towards the back of the car. You will tap into this side so open up the black wrapping and pull it back to expose the wires.
Attachment 135845
2nd --- You’re going to need to tap into a total of 5 wires. Here are the wires you’re going to use for a signal along with the diagram. The letters on the left symbolize the color of the wires.
BR -Brown
V - Violet
SB - Sky blue
Y - Yellow
W - White
Attachment 135846
Attachment 135847
IMPORTANT if your amp is sensitive or needs at least 12 volts for a turn on signal to work, then #20 will not work because the BOSE amp only receives about 10.5 volts when the car is running for its turn on signal.
Using 18 gauge wire, I tapped into the factory harness using wire taps and then twisted the L(+-) and the R(+-) together so i would not get them confused.
Attachment 135848
3rd --- Get a regular set of RCA cables and cut one end off of the RCA’s. (i only needed about 5 feet so i “measured” 5ft from the end i was keeping)
Attachment 135849
NEXT strip each side of the RCA wires very carefully. you will find two small wires under each side of the cable. mine were wrapped around each other but i just separated them.Attachment 135850
THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!! DO NOT MIX THIS UP
The insulated wire in the RCA cables are going to be positive and the non-insulated wire is negative. I used butt splices for the RCAS because i didn’t want to take the time to solder them into the factory harness.
one side of the RCA cable is LEFT (+ , -) and the other side is RIGHT (+ , -)
The left ( + , -) will connect to the Sky blue and violet (factory amp) wires that you tapped into.
The right (+ , -) will connect to the brown and yellow (factory amp) wires that you tapped into.
Attachment 135851
There are others way to go about adding a sub, but IMO this is the best way. The bose head unit sends a low input signal to the bose amp in the trunk which is also what most aftermarket amps look for at the RCA inputs. This is great because you dont need a line output converter. A line output converter, or LOC, is used whenever your taking high signals (speakers or full range) and converting them to low signals for an amplifier input which is then amplified and sent out to the sub (this way can sound like crap at times depending on your LOC or setup). AFter setting my amp and sub up the way I did, I was super happy with the results! Sounds clean, loud, and responsive.
Whenever you adjust the bass setting on your head unit this will also change the signal going into the amp so it will still work! I wanted full control so I added a bad **** but the head unit is a good way to adjust if you're not going from one extreme to the other.
If anyone finds typos, issues, or something else please let me know. I will also help anyone where i can. Just post and ask. Hop this helps out my fellow VQ brothers and sisters.
Phil
Hey it looks like a light Grey wire you used because the white one is behind your fingers in the. Picture
03-31-2022, 10:22 AM
#102
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Hi, I followed the instructions but I don't really get any sound from sub. As soon as I turn up the gain the sub clips. I have tried 3 amps and same problem can't get it to pump. Thinking maybe my wireing is not correct as you mentioned: THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!! DO NOT MIX THIS UP.
Last edited by Darryl123; 03-31-2022 at 11:33 AM.
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