Upgrading stock speakers
#2
Registered Member
iTrader: (1)
#3
6 1/2" speakers are not meant to be sub woofers. The 10" "woofers" in the doors of the bose set up are ok at best.
Bose set up or not....anything is better in the doors.
This site will have what you need either way
PVC Speaker Adapters - CNC Machined - In Stock or Custom Made
Bose set up or not....anything is better in the doors.
This site will have what you need either way
PVC Speaker Adapters - CNC Machined - In Stock or Custom Made
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Upscale Speed (09-21-2015)
#6
You keep all the factory head unit functions and basically "bypass" all of the factory audio processing.
The chain would go
factory head unit ---- LOC --- amp ---- speaker
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Upscale Speed (09-23-2015)
#7
Registered User
I have been looking at the 8" Free Air Shallow Mount Pioneer TS-SW2002D2. The Crutchfield rep told me the 10" Stock Bose Door Woofer is actually 9.4" and 1.3ohms. You can wire this 8" dual voice coil in a 1ohm or 4ohm configuration. You may have to modify a mount for these...
Not sure if this will improve the sound or not with the stock Bose Amps... But I might try these soon..
Here is the link:
Pioneer TS-SW2002D2 600W 8-inch TS Series Shallow Mount Dual 2 ohm Subwoofer at Onlinecarstereo.com
I really don't want to replace my amps nor place a box in my truck as I use it very often and need the space.
Not sure if this will improve the sound or not with the stock Bose Amps... But I might try these soon..
Here is the link:
Pioneer TS-SW2002D2 600W 8-inch TS Series Shallow Mount Dual 2 ohm Subwoofer at Onlinecarstereo.com
I really don't want to replace my amps nor place a box in my truck as I use it very often and need the space.
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#10
This can be done with a line out put converter. Some LOC are as simple as tapping into wires behind the head unit and running a single pair of RCA cables. Some can be very complex.
You keep all the factory head unit functions and basically "bypass" all of the factory audio processing.
The chain would go
factory head unit ---- LOC --- amp ---- speaker
You keep all the factory head unit functions and basically "bypass" all of the factory audio processing.
The chain would go
factory head unit ---- LOC --- amp ---- speaker
#12
#14
the rear speakers are very under powered.
I could barely get a signal from them. I had to use the front signal.
I always try my best to bypass or just not use any part of the factory audio.
I could barely get a signal from them. I had to use the front signal.
I always try my best to bypass or just not use any part of the factory audio.
#15
worked for my powered sub - i tapped off the rear right and left signal from the HU at the Bose amp connector.
and to the OP, i think adding a powered sub will be MUCH easier than tearing the entire car apart to replace all the speakers and add an aftermarket amp. with some tweaking of the HU bass & treble, and messing with my iPod EQ, i'm happy enough with the sound.
if space is the concern, most powered subs can be easily removed by undoing the connector and removing it, if you are anticipating filling the trunk up on a shopping trip, etc.