Who has a Stillen G37 Supercharger? Numbers, pics, vids!
05-16-2012, 10:04 AM
#91
Registered Member
Thread Starter
I had found this on the net... looks very close. But this brace (I can't remember the manufacturer off-hand, but they always make their mounts blue) has each mount adjustable up/down via a slot... it might be possible to just slot it a little bit further.
(click on the image for the full size version)
(click on the image for the full size version)
Last edited by jwfisher; 05-16-2012 at 10:13 AM.
05-20-2012, 12:48 PM
#92
Premier Member
jwfisher
I think this is the strut brace you are refering to. Gt-Spec.
GTSPEC Front Strut Brace - Infiniti G37 Coupe/Sedan V36 (07+) | www.gtspec.com
I think this is the strut brace you are refering to. Gt-Spec.
GTSPEC Front Strut Brace - Infiniti G37 Coupe/Sedan V36 (07+) | www.gtspec.com
05-20-2012, 01:03 PM
#93
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Yes, that is the one I'm after. It's slotted, and the clearance is very close on the left. Possibly it could be slotted just a little bit more to better clear the intake pipes. Or, if it had to be, raised slightly with spacers underneath on the tower.
06-04-2012, 08:14 PM
#96
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Food for thought: You can see from these images why a forced-induction G needs a replacement exhaust system.
This was my stock G37S exhaust system y-pipe. It's TINY and very restrictive.
Here's one of the two inlet sides. They are especially small, only 43mm or just over 1 5/8".
And here's the single outlet, 60mm inside diameter, just under 2.5". I'm surprised that Nissan engineers didn't at least use an oval outlet.
There's a reason why it's small - exhaust flow velocity = low end torque. But this clearly won't work for a F/I G37S that may be capable of 500 horsepower at the flywheel.
My supercharged G uses an ARK GRIP Burnt Tip exhaust to replace the stock system, providing for true dual exhaust and far less back-pressure. It's a bolt on to the stock converters, and replaced everything behind that. It's designed very well... fits very well... but it's not for everybody. It's outright guttural at idle... way too loud for many neighborhoods. From the inside of the car, it's also loud at idle. At highway cruise, it's easily tolerable, not interfering in normal conversation.
On a naturally-aspirated G, IMHO, you'd loose too much torque with this and it would sound lousy. It's just too big. But clearly the stock system is too small for a forced induction car.
This was my stock G37S exhaust system y-pipe. It's TINY and very restrictive.
Here's one of the two inlet sides. They are especially small, only 43mm or just over 1 5/8".
And here's the single outlet, 60mm inside diameter, just under 2.5". I'm surprised that Nissan engineers didn't at least use an oval outlet.
There's a reason why it's small - exhaust flow velocity = low end torque. But this clearly won't work for a F/I G37S that may be capable of 500 horsepower at the flywheel.
My supercharged G uses an ARK GRIP Burnt Tip exhaust to replace the stock system, providing for true dual exhaust and far less back-pressure. It's a bolt on to the stock converters, and replaced everything behind that. It's designed very well... fits very well... but it's not for everybody. It's outright guttural at idle... way too loud for many neighborhoods. From the inside of the car, it's also loud at idle. At highway cruise, it's easily tolerable, not interfering in normal conversation.
On a naturally-aspirated G, IMHO, you'd loose too much torque with this and it would sound lousy. It's just too big. But clearly the stock system is too small for a forced induction car.
For example: Stillen's older SC kits that are a roots type require smaller diam piping, if you free up exhaust flow too much on THOSE, you lose all your low end and your top end suffers still. But since this is a centrifugal SC, larger piping is probably a good thing just remember that bigger is NOT always better...
06-04-2012, 08:22 PM
#97
Registered Member
Thread Starter
My ARK GRIP dual dual system is better, and makes a lot more power than the old y-pipe did. It's not a big problem inside the car, although of course it is louder than stock on the highway. My trunk has been lined with Dynamat sound insulation. But outside of the car the idle is just too unreasonable for my neighborhood. I plan to sell the ARK and get something else, even at a loss of power.
The Stillen supercharger doesn't make a lot of noise at idle, just some mechanical noise. It's cold-air dual filters are quiet at idle, too. But in front of the car during acceleration it is loud. Nothing to be done there.
The Stillen supercharger doesn't make a lot of noise at idle, just some mechanical noise. It's cold-air dual filters are quiet at idle, too. But in front of the car during acceleration it is loud. Nothing to be done there.
08-26-2012, 03:11 PM
#98
Registered Member
I have had the stillen s/c for three years now it's awesome I did the stillen exhaust headers back put in a full limit slip rear wand with solid mounts lowered springs and sway bars I got r888 toyo tires 285 for the rear this helps alot with the traction problem the car ran 114 mile at 13.2 I think it's possible to get it in the mid 12s
09-09-2012, 01:48 PM
#99
Registered User
Can I assume that this extra sensor pack, if still available somewhere, will integrate all readouts (AFR, boost, etc) into the factory screen?
09-09-2012, 02:23 PM
#100
Registered User
Yes, the single belt that powers all the accessories as well as the supercharger. It's a Dayco "Poly Rib" 5071045. I also carry a diagram showing how the belt goes on the pulleys, it may be self-apparent to some but it is complex.
I have a set of images I'll put in the DIY section if I ever have any spare time. I photographed the entire thing last time I did it. Not a big deal to do by hand, but there is a special wrench I bought which makes all the difference.
I have a set of images I'll put in the DIY section if I ever have any spare time. I photographed the entire thing last time I did it. Not a big deal to do by hand, but there is a special wrench I bought which makes all the difference.
09-09-2012, 05:38 PM
#101
Registered Member
Thread Starter
No, I have to do some slight graphics work to get that new image right before it's ready to post. And I have about 20 pictures of each step to sort thru. The serpentine belt is a PITA to change in any G, supercharged or not.
Meanwhile, I have had some belt issues with the Daycos. I lost one twice at redline when the fuel cutoff kicked in. Doing some reading about other supercharger kits, I found that one of the big Mustang kit manufacturers uses the Goodyear Gatorback belts. But I couldn't find anywhere to get one to our specification... until I wondered if Amazon.com stocked it. Yes, they do, and here is the link: .
I've got one of these sitting in my trunk now as an emergency backup... and when I do some routine maintenance in a few weeks I'm going to slip this on in place of the Dayco. Reading further about some other kits, I found that the serpentine belt tensioner is something that some aftermarket manufacturers replace, to one with greater tension because the load on it is so much higher. So where would I get one for a G? Looking further, I found that the GT-R engine uses a tensioner that looks (at first guess) to be compatible. Possibly - no way to be sure - it is designed for higher revs and therefore load. Good news is that it's only $144. So I may try that and see what happens. I think it could be ordered and returned if it turned out not to be interchangeable. Or, it may be the identical part to the one on our engines. After all that is where the GT-R engine came from anyway. ANMVQ - this might be something you would want to look into for your high boost project.
I'm also looking at the plastic valve that regulates boost pressure. It's worse than abrupt when it kicks in at high revs... I'd like to find something that isn't so hard on the engine. I also want to replace all the lines of the intercooler and transmission cooler with stainless and fittings. The transmission cooler originally came with the wrong size hoses, and I've had a bad time with leaks. I replaced the hoses with the right size and used new fittings into the cooler, but now I want it and everything else bulletproofed.
And while I am at it, the engine compartment in this car is hot (and here in Texas the recent summers have been much hotter than normal). Anything supercharged or turbocharged is going to have a heat soak issue, especially in a tight engine compartment that wasn't designed for this purpose. I would like to find a much larger radiator. There are a few to choose from in Japan but I am wondering about the fitment. The main problem is that it cannot move the fan any closer to the engine at all... or the serpentine belt won't be able to be changed. It's that tight. Anybody else done this?
Another problem fixed: the radiator overflow tank was mounted too low. The top of it should have been level with or higher than the radiator fill cap next to the engine. So I replaced that with this stainless bottle that is mounted at the correct height. I think this means that the proper amount of coolant will be in the engine at all times.
Meanwhile, I took the car out on a racetrack to see what it would do when I was there already for an event I was instructing at. No problems at all, it hit about 145 on the main straight and maintained that right thru turn 1. No fuel starvation issues, like the naturally aspirated cars have. It could make a reasonable track day car, except that it needs more handling improvements and is heavy (which is what the Z is for). It has so much torque and such a wide rev range that I just used third and forth around this fast track with fifth on the main straight. I won't take it out again, we have a better car for my track days anyway, but I did want to see once what it would do. It passed, and in hundred degree+ weather for a 20 minute session.
There wasn't anybody else out on the track, I had the entire thing to myself, so I couldn't mix it up
with anybody else.
Not sure where I going to go with this car, it's intent was as a "normal" street car. And I didn't start out with the intent to do yet another modified (aka compromised) street car. It would be a big change for me to leave something alone. I failed here.
Meanwhile, I have had some belt issues with the Daycos. I lost one twice at redline when the fuel cutoff kicked in. Doing some reading about other supercharger kits, I found that one of the big Mustang kit manufacturers uses the Goodyear Gatorback belts. But I couldn't find anywhere to get one to our specification... until I wondered if Amazon.com stocked it. Yes, they do, and here is the link: .
I've got one of these sitting in my trunk now as an emergency backup... and when I do some routine maintenance in a few weeks I'm going to slip this on in place of the Dayco. Reading further about some other kits, I found that the serpentine belt tensioner is something that some aftermarket manufacturers replace, to one with greater tension because the load on it is so much higher. So where would I get one for a G? Looking further, I found that the GT-R engine uses a tensioner that looks (at first guess) to be compatible. Possibly - no way to be sure - it is designed for higher revs and therefore load. Good news is that it's only $144. So I may try that and see what happens. I think it could be ordered and returned if it turned out not to be interchangeable. Or, it may be the identical part to the one on our engines. After all that is where the GT-R engine came from anyway. ANMVQ - this might be something you would want to look into for your high boost project.
I'm also looking at the plastic valve that regulates boost pressure. It's worse than abrupt when it kicks in at high revs... I'd like to find something that isn't so hard on the engine. I also want to replace all the lines of the intercooler and transmission cooler with stainless and fittings. The transmission cooler originally came with the wrong size hoses, and I've had a bad time with leaks. I replaced the hoses with the right size and used new fittings into the cooler, but now I want it and everything else bulletproofed.
And while I am at it, the engine compartment in this car is hot (and here in Texas the recent summers have been much hotter than normal). Anything supercharged or turbocharged is going to have a heat soak issue, especially in a tight engine compartment that wasn't designed for this purpose. I would like to find a much larger radiator. There are a few to choose from in Japan but I am wondering about the fitment. The main problem is that it cannot move the fan any closer to the engine at all... or the serpentine belt won't be able to be changed. It's that tight. Anybody else done this?
Another problem fixed: the radiator overflow tank was mounted too low. The top of it should have been level with or higher than the radiator fill cap next to the engine. So I replaced that with this stainless bottle that is mounted at the correct height. I think this means that the proper amount of coolant will be in the engine at all times.
Meanwhile, I took the car out on a racetrack to see what it would do when I was there already for an event I was instructing at. No problems at all, it hit about 145 on the main straight and maintained that right thru turn 1. No fuel starvation issues, like the naturally aspirated cars have. It could make a reasonable track day car, except that it needs more handling improvements and is heavy (which is what the Z is for). It has so much torque and such a wide rev range that I just used third and forth around this fast track with fifth on the main straight. I won't take it out again, we have a better car for my track days anyway, but I did want to see once what it would do. It passed, and in hundred degree+ weather for a 20 minute session.
There wasn't anybody else out on the track, I had the entire thing to myself, so I couldn't mix it up
with anybody else.Not sure where I going to go with this car, it's intent was as a "normal" street car. And I didn't start out with the intent to do yet another modified (aka compromised) street car. It would be a big change for me to leave something alone. I failed here.
09-10-2012, 08:57 AM
#102
Registered Member
iTrader: (13)
Hey Jwfisher ,Thanx for the belt info, Going through some other headaches right now, With the belt walking off after the cog set up was installed, I will be getting an extra belt to keep in the trunk and as far as the BPV I changed mine to the Turbo XS dual BPV. I changed a handfull of things the last 3 months the car has been down. Pushing for 500
WHP and hoping for 14 PSI.
Nice to be out on the track Looking GOOD, to bad no one else was out there.
Pushing for 500WHP and hoping for 14 PSI.
Nice to be out on the track Looking GOOD, to bad no one else was out there.
09-20-2012, 02:30 PM
#103
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I have had the stillen s/c for three years now it's awesome I did the stillen exhaust headers back put in a full limit slip rear wand with solid mounts lowered springs and sway bars I got r888 toyo tires 285 for the rear this helps alot with the traction problem the car ran 114 mile at 13.2 I think it's possible to get it in the mid 12s
09-26-2012, 06:49 AM
#104
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Here's the big question - does this Z radiator fit the G as well?
Project Nissan 370Z - Keeping it cool with a CSF radiator, HPS Hoses and a Nissan Motorsports Oil Cooler
Project Nissan 370Z - Keeping it cool with a CSF radiator, HPS Hoses and a Nissan Motorsports Oil Cooler
09-26-2012, 08:32 AM
#105
Registered Member
iTrader: (13)
I think they make one for us also,,
http://www.boostlogic.com/catalog/p1...duct_info.html
http://www.boostlogic.com/catalog/p1...duct_info.html