joshk

iTrader: (1)

Im sorry this is a bit off topic but how did you guys get your spoilers to be the same color as your g instead of chrome? Got it painted? if so how much is it around? (i really hate the chrome on mine and dont wana plasti dip it)

Quatro

Just out of curiosity, how would you go about redoing them 2 to 3 shades lighter?

I wanna do this to my tails but am afraid that I will make them too dark and won't be able to go back.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Thanks a bunch Wakeboard for the great DIY, I used it and yogregbs' DIY to GTR my lights, hope it was OK to link your DIYs in my threads
Your detailed DIY made the project much easier than I would have thought
https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-i...ils-sedan.html
http://g35driver.com/forums/v36-diy/...ils-sedan.html

Mantis

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the DIY! Very easy to follow and quite on point. My polishing compounds come in tomorrow so ill be wet-sanding this weekend. I'll post final pics then, but this is how they look today.

Mantis

iTrader: (2)

Check the color before you apply the clear. If they are too dark then grab your 800 grit sandpaper and start wet sanding. Slowly, with the more you sand, the more color you'll take off.

RyanWang

I recently just did this DIY and the lights came out really clean. But, I noticed that I am able to see the scratch marks from the wet sanding in DIRECT sunlight. Its not as noticeable in normal lighting or darker. Does anyone know a better way to get rid of the scratches? I know that it has something to do with the rubbing compound.. I'm currently using the $5 turtle wax rubbing compound and it doesn't seem to be of the best quality- so is there a better one out there that I should be using?

I am also guessing that I am not putting in enough time sitting and there and using the rubbing compound. People have been saying that it is taking them hours to wax it all out? I think a random orbital fissure would also help me more than just by doing it by hand..

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Are you noticing the scratches under the clear coat or just the last round of scratches on top of the clear coat? If it's on the very surface of the CC just use Maquairs Ultimate Compound, you should get scratch free results if you put a lot of elbow grease into it and follow w/ a decent carnauba wax. The clear coat is more prone to water spot etching so a good wax is important after you use the compound.
And if you do have access to a random orbit buffer/polisher that would be best.

RyanWang

Thanks, blnewt. I just ordered the meguiars ultimate compound and chemical boys xxx wax so hopefully all goes well. I actually don't have a random orbit buffer since I'm still a pretty new car owner but I'll try to find someone. But hey, the extra workout isn't bad either.

Maelstrom

I just bought an '08 Coupe and the tail lights were already smoked... the problem is whoever did it, did not tape off the reverse lights.

Except for this fact, I like the smoke job they did... would it be possible to just sand/buff out only the reverse light area, or would it be easier to sand it all down and re-smoke the whole lense (sans the reverse lights this time)?

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Should be able to mask off the outer lens and just sand down the reverse light all the way down to 2000 grit, then a real light scuff sand w/ 2000 over the whole light, wipe w/ Isopropyl Alcohol and re-apply the clear coat over entire light, let cure for 48 hours then polish w/ a light compound and a finish polish, then wax the entire assembly.

landslide03

iTrader: (1)

I just got done putting 5 layers of clear on my lights. One is a little messed up, i tried to do it gtr style and when i sprayed the clear on it and it was wet i could see the inconsistency in the light where the tint was a little blotchy. It seems like it would be better if i kept that part more of a matte so it dosent show the blotchyness too much. So after the clear coat dries for a couple days do you recommend i lightly go over the entire thing with 2000 grit sand paper then rubbing compound but does it matter what kind of pad I use? Right now I have a palm buffer with wool pads. Should i get one of those orange pads they are talking about? Then after that would you recommend I use my headlight restoration kit with the drill and polish ball at the end? I was thinking that would work well but I dont know if it is too harsh for the clear coat.

n_jay888

iTrader: (2)

Not a G, but a Q50. Thanks for this quick DIY.

InitialDeezNutz

Do you really have to let them cure overnight before buffing and detailing them out? Or can it be a few hours?

ranger92998

What do you recommend for a good clear coat?

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

These are the top three that I recommend, much better than any rattle can clear at chain stores. They go on thick and dry to a hard shell compared to the cheap clears that go on thin and are soft (scratch & haze easily)

Dupont Acrylic Clear A-7480 (available in Auto Body/Paint supply stores)

Evercoat Cut-in-Clear, Spraymax 2k cut-in-clear(both can be bought online)