Lowered '10 G37x (AWD) Coupe
 

Hey Everyone. So before I dropped and choose wheel fitment I searched this forum thoroughly and couldn't find much useful info for x's out there.

Just thought I would share this to help others looking for some info.:cool:

Lowered on Eibach Prokit

The drop achieved is pretty significant and still OK for winter driving. I think, haven't drove on em through the winter yet. It's obviously a little more stiff than stock and you can definitely feel the road more, being almost 1.5-2" closer to the ground. Way less roll on turns, like off ramps on the highway. The handling has improved 10 fold. No joke.

Wheel Fitment and Tires

I chose the Vossen CV1 wheels in matte graphite and Hankook v12 tires
20x9+32 245/35 Front
20*10.5 +42 285/30 Rears

I didn't have to disconnect the AWD system for those who are curious. If you go online and find a wheel diameter calculator the rolling diameter of both front and rear are within 3% of each other and both within 3% of the stock rolling diameter therefore it does not mess with your AWD system.

I do not have the camber kit and found out after that I probably should have purchased it for the rear (at least). My front camber is maxed out at about -1.6 and rear is about -2.6. The alignment shop suggested that I get the rear kit at least or my tires are gonna wear out quickly. I am looking to get the rear kit asap. After speaking with a few people they all insist that this amount of camber is still OK, but with soft summer tires I don't really want to risk wearing them out quickly and I am also going to buy new winter tires and want those to last as well. :driving:

These wheels are a bit heavy and I noticed that my power from start is not as good as with the stock wheels. I'm not a race car driver, although sometimes I behave like I am, soo its still OK for daily driver. If I had to choose again, I would probably go with lighter wheels. Don't get me wrong, it still looks sexy... hehehe but looks aren't everything are they?? :icon17:

Hope that info is helpful for some of you that are looking for guidance before lowering your AWD coupe.

Feel free to leave your questions/comments.

Some after photos....

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I have a question y would your tires wear out is it because you drop with springs?? I have 37x coupe also and we have winter here more then summer. Another question what if I lower it with coilover does that mean I wont need camber kit?

Camber kit can be required to correct the -ve camber and bring the wheel closer to straight. If you have excessive -ve or +ve camber this can wear the tires unevenly. Imagine its on an angle so one part of the tire is taking more weight/force and will wear faster. Mine isn't too bad as stated above. I've heard many saying that the -ve camber will not really affect my tires much and its more related to the toe. I'm not convinced about that. In any case you want to adjust your toe closest to 0 as possible. I'd recommend waiting about 1-2 months after lowering to allow the springs/coils to settle before going for your alignment.

I don't know the answer to your question about the camber kit with coil overs. That shouldn't matter if you're AWD or not, so do a search about camber kits on the forum and see what you find.

Also you said you get winter there right. What do you do then when winter come? I'm pretty sure you put the 20" away and put your original back on. Will there be a issue since is low or you just drive it lower like that is okay?

you at Toronto? do you scrap anything while driving? any uncomfortable things with lowered spring?

Good review/write up and also good to see another G37x Coupe done right

Yes, I live in Toronto, Canada area (GTA) so we definitely have snow. I am going to use the stock wheels and buy winter tires for them, although its probably overkill for an AWD. I was in love with my Toyo Garit kx winter tires on my old car so I will probably get those again.
I don't forsee any issue being low in the winter. I'm not slammed. The ride height if you can see in the pics still is about .5" wheel gap in front and rear.


Yup I'm in the T. I don't scrape but have to be careful on speed bumps and ramps, just go slow and take it on an angle. If you rush that's when you could scrape. Well, like I said the only uncomfortable thing depends on your preference. I'm someone that likes the feel of the road when I'm driving so, if you like the luxury of being high off the ground and not feeling the road, I would recommend not to lower it. IMO way more positives then negatives with being lowered. You'll notice less body roll and ability to take corners much faster as soon as you lower it. Your center of gravity overall is lower so better handling ..

Thanks buddy!!! :D Let's be friends lol

Coupe looks great, nice wheel choice and the drop looks real good and something that you can ;live with much easier on a daily basis. Regarding your camber, you will need to address the rear for sure, the front at -1.6 will be OK but only if your toe is in (which I assume it is, both F&R). If your camber was at -2 or better you could probably get by w/ regular tire rotations and no rear kit, but at -2.6 you'll get noticeable inner tread wear :(

Thanks so much for the info! I suppose I need to get on it and order that rear kit!

Is this a good price from Tire Rack (Eibach part #5.72280K, $155 for rear arms + Eibach part 5.72265K, $55 rear bolts)? Since I'm in Canada, I'll need to buy local to avoid huge shipping and duty fees but I want to know the basic price.

After about how many km's/miles do you actually start to see the wear on the tires. I think I've only put about 2500 kms on since I got these tires.

Toe was close to 0, but I can't recall exactly at this time. Is 'toe in' +ve or -ve toe? Also, I wish I could rotate, but I'm staggered fitment with directional tires. Now I will I bought non-directional :icon43:

Great choice in car, springs and wheels! Haha

I just read your sig... LOLLLL ;)

Toe-in is (-) and it's good to have a little bit rather than just zero. Price for the rear sounds about right, if you've got an alignment shop that will give you a free re-adjustment you might want to see if you can get by without the toe kit, just get the rear arms and see if that gets you in spec while still keeping your toe in spec. The rear toe kit requires cutting the rear toe slot a bit longer to give you the wider adjustment range, not a big deal but if you can get by without it so much the better. You could always remount your tires to even out the wear, it's a bit of a pain but will prolong your tread wear, just do it like every 10k miles. Of course you won't need to worry much if you can get that camber in line :)

I run 2.4 neg rear camber, I have 20k km on supersports no uneven wear. Its not the camber arms that are going to kill your tires its the toe-in. You can safely run 2.6 without wearing anything as long as you get toe arms instead.

Snow tires are NEVER overkill for winter driving when there is snow, ice or cold bare roads.
People seem to ignore or forget that Stopping is often more important than getting the car rolling.

I had an X, four years (07 to 11). One winter with AS tires (mistake) and three winters with Snow tires. The driving control experience is twice as good and the stopping even more-so.

Being lowered 1.5-2" (like myself) you will not find it easy to plow through 5-6" of snow with slightly worn AS tires. With Snow tires you'll get through 8-10" of fresh snow. I can now, with RWD.

This is what happens when the rear camber is compromised by lowering and you don't correct it...driving in the left lane of the 407 doing a little over the limit.

http://instagram.com/p/eLbJTSzKK2/

Worst thing is, I was losing traction even when changing lanes at speed, and In thought it was lack of air in the tires...

Next spring, I am DEFINITELY investing in a camber kit!!