Possible passenger leak location?
 

Hey guys,
Had some heavy rain yesterday here in FL and came into car this am and found water on passenger side etc...did much research and see a few causes, though the main culprit seems to be the sunroof drain etc; however, after talking the panel off and looking at connection, it all looks ok and nothing is wet on side pass wall where i presume and from reading other posts, would have left the carpet and padding wet...so looking further, i see that my cabin AC filter was wet , but just on right top corner, so took out the ac fan and found water in there...like the water came down just in this area. Recently changed my battery and took the cowl out etc...so question is, could this tubing/lining be part of the problem? looks like its 100 years old...but what is that stuff? its gray in pics, but that is mildew rot or something i guess...anyway, my thought its that the water made its way through there somehow and down onto the filter, then on to the panel below the glovebox to floorboard..no other areas were wet or damp, just those i mentioned, so thinking to replace this piece of rubber material and then will water hose test etc..thanks
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...1532e0b233.jpg
windshield cowl
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...2c883ceaa6.jpg
gray stuff liner
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...dcd563b687.jpg
gray stuff
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...afb5b01313.jpg
filter only wet right top corner

I had the same problem. I am going to assume you have a sunroof. It comes from either the drain lines being plugged or the brackets that support them being broken. I had mine fixed while it was still under warranty. Apparently it happens enough that the dealership knew exactly what it was and what to do immediately upon hearing about the water in passenger side. Mine totally soaked the floor mat and everything. If you don’t have a sunroof, I have no idea??

had the same problem in my G. Clean out all that crap in the slot on the cowl that slips over the windshield. There's a channel that will get clog and water won't be able to drain where its supposed to and drain on top of the filter opening.

thanks, i guess just based on where the water was, on the filter and not running down the sides where i presumed it would have been if it was a sunroof issue etc...but will check out the drain again in better light and see if an issue is there...also, anybody know about the rubber trim piece? any specific type used ?

if it was a sunroof issue there would be a ton of water under the glovebox and under the mat.

thanks and when i said sunroof , i meant the sunroof drain, as my logic was that since its on the far side firewall, the water would back up and run down the side of the panel etc and that side carpet would be wet...in my case, it was under the mat but it looks like it just came straight down the top on to the side of cabin filter and on down...but since i never had the issue, guess i will start with the most posted scenario, sunroof drain...so thanks

If its just a little water on the filter like you showed in the pic I'd start with cleaning that channel out in the cowl. Then see what happens next rainfall. If it happens again go from there.

yeah, definitely, read some bad stories on electronics going bad for some posters, so got a dry week ahead and will try to look into it and do a hose test on driveway...i rather catch it now before a rainfall and it gets worse next go round

good luck! Let us know what you find.

So I had the same problem, and my solution was to bypass that stupid firewall drain completely. I took off the A pillar trim, replaced the hose, ran it down into where the AC drains in the floor and T-ted into that line. This way, it wont clog on the firewall drain and all the water is run completely away from any electrical components, BCM etc. No issues at all after a year, and lot of rain.

It's such a stupid design the way they did it, after heavy rainfall i literally had TWO blower motors and filters totally ruined. And i'm super lucky that no water got into my BCM module.

I did the same exact thing. Drains under the car now.. Haven't had a problem since!

Yeah, that solution sounds logical ....so you replaced the entire hose from the start at sunroof and ran it all the way to where the AC drain etc....? How difficult vs doing the straw extension I'm reading about ? Also you t'ed the connection and did you glue/epoxy it all up etc? Thanks ...

DON'T bother with the "straw-extension repair". Either bypass the designed drain completely or replace the drain with a new one.

Why?

• Most drains don't start leaking for a long time with the original design. My passenger started leaking at 13 years and 150k-ish miles. My driver has not leaked, yet. 14 years and 166k miles, now. Dozens of heavy storms, not a drop.
• The new design is infinitely better than the old one. (Pun unintended) Nissan/Infiniti did a great job with the redesign. Seems like they actually performed a RCCA.
• The part is cheap and can be purchased from a Nissan dealership. Nissan is 20 minutes out of my way for commute, Infiniti is 60.
• The access to the drain is extremely limiting. Trying a MacGyver fix (I love exploring these) leaves too many variables to consider if it doesn't work well the first time. Mine lasted through a few Southern, heavy thunderstorms. And then it leaked. I would have saved so much time and skin if I would have just waited the day to order the part.
• Purchase the new part straight from the dealer so you know it's the new design (think it was around 10-15 bucks).
• Bypassing the drain requires a lot more thinking/collaborating to get the confidence you want. Opposed to the original placement which has the factory service manual and tons of online resources (forums, blogs, YT, etc.).

Good luck!

Bypassing the drain the best solution imo. It's easy as well. Getting access to that stupid firewall drain is nearly impossible without pulling half the dash, vents etc.

I never took any pictures when I did this but basically just pull the A pillar trim off and you will see the drain tube. Cut a little piece off, measure it and go to home depot and get some more tube, coupler and a T line.

I checked in mine today and I see the gasket is dried and broke or did so when I pulled it ...but either way, yes that seems the issue...so I'll check out the new piece as I'm already halfway in there and can see how to put new one in with long nose pliers , so will try that route and do a hose test and if all good...call it a day...otherwise will try the ac drain route...thanks guys , at least I have a plan now....

Btw , if you find that part number , please let me know, just called the Infiniti dealer near me and parts guy said all were the same etc...so will try on weekday when a full crew is there and also start checking online

The below is from another poster-dwb993- on forum from some years back, but the info is still correct on plug part number , so in case anyone has this issue pop up on them...




Got the car back yesterday. Here is the breakdown on what they did:

"R&I Instrument panel to access & replace Pass firewall grommet & related parts. Leak Test."
Parts replaced:
74816JU40B-PLUG
0155400181-CLIP(2)
769113LZ0A-GARNISH ASSY-FRONT (Pillar trim)
769123LZ0A-GARNISH ASSY-FRONT (Pillar trim)

They spent 2.8 hours in labor. Total cost: Parts-268.22 Labor-350.93 Total-619.15. Covered under warranty.

Found a post on FB about this. Here is how he got to the part:

Name: Infiniti_Plug_zps2cdun0yu.jpg
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Size: 68.0 KB



The red arrow points to the drain tube, the blue arrow points to the plug location.

Here is the plug that was replaced:

Name: Infiniti_Plug2_zpszw4in9vs.jpg
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Size: 52.4 KB

Last edited by dwb993; 07-11-2016 at 09:57 AM

Relocate is my vote. After having a hurricane dump 6" of water inside and trying different things, relocating to T into AC drain worked. And still does 2 years later - nary a drop inside.

I took the Pilar off and cut it half way up. Used a coupler to splice the tubes together and ran it down and around to the condenser drain tube and t'ed it there. The tubes were a pretty tight fit so I just used zip ties to secure the tubes. You can get what you need at Lowe's or home depot for like $15. All the fitting were plastic. Take the existing tube with you to match the tube size to the fittings. I cant remember the exact size I bought. Also check the size of the condenser tube. Its much bigger then the oem drain tube. I bought a few different fittings and returned what I didnt use so I didn't have to go back and forth to Lowe's

here's a link from the forum. Scroll way down on the thread until you see the pic of the T fitting. Everything you need is there. Any questions I'm here.https://www.myg37.com/forums/body-in...rd-leak-2.html

so wheres all the water coming from? water is getting through the sunroof glass seals? i see photos of people water leaks and theres a lot of water. it cant all be coming from the sunroof when it is close or can it?

Definitely. I thought the same but its definitely from there.. also could be from around the harness gromet under the battery tray/cover. When I bypassed the firewall tube into the condenser drain I also put clear silicone around the rubber harness grommet and haven't had a drop of water since. Its been over a year.

So ....much more reading than doing anything so far , but it leads me to do the bypass as the most logical solutionn , at least on passenger side, since electrical components on that side and the potential of a recurring leak, even with a new and upgraded piece ...as some posters mentioned the leak returning and here in FL and the summer rains ...well I don't want to chance it...so will purchase the tubing and I see some options on just running the tube out the AC drain and then sealing it or doing the T method , will probably buy all and then make up my mind once there and looking at it...I'm guessing the accountants looked at the cost to run the tube that extra lenght to gravities most logical out source and then said .....nah ...just make a hole and put it above the ecm and other components and....let'er rip lol....anyways ....pissed off .... and end rant ....thanks for all the help...still love..errr like the car lol...

seriously. What a stupid design! No problem brother. Good luck! Let know how it works out. You should be good to go after the fix.👍 I think doing the T is the best way as to not disturb the condenser drain tube grommet.

someone with access to a 3d printer should make a guard type cover that can sit above the ecm electronics to at least protect it. I will gladly pay $8 for it.

Lol. thats a good idea! I would bet they would charge more then $8. Probably more like $19.99🤪

yes, after seeing the ac grommet location, the T seems best so will go that route..btw this is the tubing im purchasing, any issues with this? and getting some marine grade silicon as well to add around the grommet as well ....https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...2294/207144235...

perfect. Same stuff I used. Marine grade silicone is good!!

I'd be curious to hear from those that have replaced the drain with a new part from Infiniti and had it leak. I don't recall seeing one person in my searches share that information. I live in coastal Georgia. It hasn't leaked a drop since. I've read the same experience from others.

I'm all for alternative solutions, but adding hardware store parts and extending hose length brings its own risks. I imagine the designers that routed this thing had a global perspective for their design. It's been several years and thousands of miles, and people are creating solutions to a problem that is becoming widely visible. Remember, so did Nissan. I'll let you know if mine ever leaks.

I found it odd while researching that there wasn't a common DIY workaround. Everyone's design is different and incorporates different items. That's usually not how good solutions present themselves. A good design is copied without variation. Something to think about.

my fix hasn't leaked in over a year and I rerouted mine to the condenser drain tube. I've read numerous people's post on this forum that have complained about bringing it to the dealer to get fixed, payi.g a ton of money just for it to leak again. Almost every car manufacturer have design flaws. If they can save $2 on something that means millions more in there pocket. Thats the name of the game. To put the drain right on top of the BCM harness is just retarded. For me rerouting it works. Fix it and forget it.

I don't doubt you.

This I find dubious. Let's agree to disagree.

Not exclusive to your post, but I tire of reading this rhetoric repeatedly. I think most can agree on simple economics, it's not just the big-bad manufacturers. Those who think manufacturers are knowingly cutting corners that compromise safety or reliability on every design scenario for an extra $2 over a perfect solution need to take a breath and consider the actual market forces that promote the opposite. I do, however, agree with the first statement albeit with a modification: Every car manufacturer has design flaws. If you think electronics in proximity to potential water intrusion is a design flaw, they all share it.

In the end, everyone repairs their car the way they like. I am offering the argument to use an easy, plug-and-play solution in the cluster of DIY solutions.

what do you have in mind? Something you want to design?

I have found multiple posts on repairs being done by dealership and returning again some time later; however, that point aside, if you have a solution, im all ears, as i will be performing this lovely bypass sometime over the weekend...but to your point, not sure how adding a splicer(securely) and then running tubing an extra 12 or so would be detrimental or at the very least any more so than the original design... ...but, im asking for help on here from Whiterocket, so what do i know etc..so please, do elaborate on solution

Went ahead with the bybass and tested and all looks good...however ...went to was car and found some water in and near vent opening above cabin filter and this is where the initial water leak appeared to be...and wondering if when I changed the battery over winter , maybe something is off...however everything only goes in one way, so by chance does anyone have pics of their passenger side cowl section? As I'm seeing water on the areas with arrow donuts dripping into engine and I'm guessing if enough rain then maybe it's overflowing ..
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...41a1cca8d8.jpg
Seeing water on that boot and somehow it's running over and down the filter to floorboard
Also , took off a rubber type material , but mine was more gray from mildew and was falling apart and not sure what it is to replace ? Also, the lower part of winshiel had some type of tape maybe? Bit that's erroded ....
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...1d4180bc50.jpg
What normally went here? Windshield tape?
Not sure if that impacts water proofness but hey...I'm trying all options ...also this is where that rubber piece in cowl normally went...
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...e17777419d.jpg
What type of rubber piece goes down here?


Sorry on the long post and hope someone has tips and if not at least maybe something here helps somebody out ...

I'm pretty sure that rubber piece helps divert the water away from the filter opening. I had the same problem. Took it apart and tried again and it stopped. Maybe when you put it back together something was a little off. Test it with a hose and have the glove box out when you test it.

Thanks and that's what I'm thinking too, but I don't have a rubber piece there and hasnt been for a while...my car was garages until last year when my daughter started driving so now outside more and maybe the missing piece is more pronounced in the past few downpours ....maybe I'll swing by dealership next weekend and see if they now what's missing ...or find a G on their lot and try to compare it they let me etc...will see, hopefully somebody has pics of theirs and or now's parts etc..

there is definitely supposed to be some kind of rubber/foam piece in there. My G has it. I was just browsing online and you can definitely find it..

yeah, a windshield install guy said its molding and can find at auto parts store or dealer etc, so will check out, but im wondering if water should be on the boot there in pic? im thinking no, as the water should run down windshield and then via the drains on the passenger side fender wall, not bounce back in and maybe that's how it got to the opening over the cabin filter...but not sure if that missing molding would be the piece that prevents all that water..saw other posts where guys replaced it with felt, but more for the cowl noise, not water leak issues..so not sure on this...at least the sunroof drain is addressed so im not too worried on water coming in that way anymore ...

I'm pretty sure that rubber piece seals the cowl to the windshield so water doesn't seep behind and under the cowl allowing it to get under and on the electrical and air vent. The seal would direct it over the cowl and away from the above mentionmentioned

Tennessee , 08-28-2012 06:34 PM
Yeah, that wiper cowl above the battery isn't secured right. There is a small piece of weather stripping attached to it that connects to your windshield. The previous owner probably had it off fooling with the battery at some point. If its not on their securely, it will leak right through the cabin filter and into your floor.


Appreciateall your help...one of the reasons I never modded my car , too ocd on $hit... unless it's right , so I just leave some stuff alone lol....so about this water leak...saw this post from some years back but wondering what seal is he referring to....I don't have a seal on mine but I recall some posters adding a j hook type seal on to top of cowl to lay against windshield but more so for the cowl creaks etc....any ideas ? Again thanks man do appreciate it, just getting to rainy season here in FL and want to get it fixed without a visit to dealer if at all possible ...

No problem. exactly as I said. The piece your missing you would think eh what could that really do? Turns out it actually makes a big difference and has a meaning. Get that replaced and you should have no more problems. I would look on line for a replacement. Dont try to rig it because there is valuable electronics under there that cost $$$. Dont take the chance of getting that stuff wet.

So trying to find that piece and not sure what I'm looking for..I found the rubber cord that goes in recess channel of cowl but not much luck with anything else...this video I shot is just a water bottle running down windshield and the water is not really going behind windshield but down the side drain ....I'm guessing this is normal and thus the reason for rubber boots over those components ...but maybe something else is missing to channel water away...??? Those areas got wet but water ran down and out ...

So trying to find that piece and not sure what I'm looking for..I found the rubber cord that goes in recess channel of cowl but not much luck with anything else...this video I shot is just a water bottle running down windshield and the water is not really going behind windshield but down the side drain ....I'm guessing this is normal and thus the reason for rubber boots over those components ...but maybe something else is missing to channel water away...??? Those areas got wet but water ran down and out ...

it is normal to drain on those boots. For piece of mind I clear siliconed around those boots to make sure no water gets in. Once put back together nothing will be seen. Pouring water is a good test but really doesn't copy what it would be like if the wipers were on throwing water at it. If you don't have water coming through the cabin filter anymore and you replaced that rubber piece in the channel you should be ok. As I said above for piece of mind clear silicone around the boot the water is draining on.

thanks man, i think i will put a fork on this bad boy and just wait and see etc...will do on the silicone bit for extra security etc...again appreciate your input..

no problem man. Glad I could help. Let me know how it works.

I had the same issue on my 2008 G35 sedan. Take off the cowl, clean all that crap out of there and clean the bottom of the windshield. Run a line of RTV black silicone down the channel and stick it back in place. The RTV silicone will be your new seal.

ok, so had a decent rain shower today and all dry!! so im thinking the bypass solved the issue; however, after doing the water test via the windshield and seeing water go to the back of the cowl, it seems that there is a piece that sits on top edge of cowl against windshield...i don't recall my car having this honestly, but then again it may been removed at some point and never replaced and i just never noticed it...some posts i read replaced it with a j hook rubber strip but they were trying to resolved the noises made by cowl rubbing, but it seems something like that could server the same purpose..anyway, this is piece and part number...anybody has this on their car?
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...0bee0269d8.png
cowl piece

Hello, @G37sPhoton, is there any update to this issue?

I now have a small drip coming in from the cabin filter area.

Seems as soon as I tackle one damn leak another creeps up. SMFH...

Thanks!

I had this issue a long time ago and this is what we did
Follow this post-https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-installations-modifications/231654-fix-windshield-cowl-popping-noises-8.html
Go to post # 90
Problem solved.. never had a problem thereafter.

Here is the link to the original idea. https://www.myg37.com/forums/body-in...ml#post3976774

Thanks

Hey @ILM-NC G37S sorry on the late reply and hopefully you found a solution already, but just in case , yeah that strip was the final solution, so truly dont know if the bypass was ever needed as once the rubber strip was added, no more water pouring in near the cabin filter opening...we have had some fairly monsoon rains here lol and all dry. give it a try, its a fairly inexpensive solution, if your strip is gone , i think i took mine off once during battery change and that was that...and car went from garaged to outside once my daughter started driving lol...if its not the strip then the Bypass and if not that, it would have to be a door seal type leak....

No worries about the late reply... we all have young and restless lives to live...

In a pinch, I ended up running a small bead of silicone along the entire inner edge/channel of that cowl piece that slides onto the windshield. Thankfully, that solved that leak issue. The original "seal" had all but completely deteriorated over time.

Thanks for the reply.

^^yeah, i think i pondered a similar solution as well, also, i bought some backer rod at home depot and replaced the seal that was in the inner lining of cowl as it was also just brittle dust, not sure how well this stuff works compared to oem seal and or if its more for friction etc but the rubber on top lip of cowl seems to have been the main fix, at least in my situation...good luck, as the water leak issue can be a pain to pinpoint at times and on passenger side can go unnoticed for some time etc...

G37sPhoton I may not have all OEM equipment so I don't understand what seals we are discussing here. Can you take pics or give part nos. of the 2 cowl seals you have mentioned that fixed your problem? My cabin air filter a tech said was moldy so I'm confident this is part of my probs! Thx!

Hey @Texas Boy , this is a quick pick, but hopefully gives you an idea of what it looks like...its probably the main piece , if missing, that will do the trick...if you pull the cowl out, you will see the other piece, foam cord, tucked inside a groove/channel..i dont think that it will be the culprit but if its falling apart then replace it too..Home depot has something similar but def not OEM etc. As far as the seal strip, its fairly expensive from dealer and the piece i bought was 13-15
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...fc796eb7b2.png
bucks and works and looks fairly good, so let me know if you don't find it cheap and i will dig up the seller link(airline supplier) as they shipped fast and most important, it works...hope you get it solved.

Hey brother thanks so much for the help. After much more research here is what I found. The strip in your pic above touching the windshield is not OEM (wasn't a part of the original design). The part no. listed a few posts above (the strip) sits on top of the cowl under the hood. It connects the hood to the cowl for sealing. I ALSO FOUND OUT from a guru at a dealership who chased his own car with this prob. that HE SILICONED THE INTAKE HOLE FOR THE CABIN AIR FILTER AND FIXED THE LEAK. After countless hrs of testing this is where his leak was. I have been wondering all along if this area was our problem. This may be the fix we're all needing. Can you confirm the seal you added above was never a part of your car before?

I don't know why the "guru" told you the seals are unavailable- they are, but just too damn expensive for what they are:
$94 for the Sedan p/n: 66834-JK000
$68 for the Coupe p/n: 66834-JK61A

I chose the silicone route as I needed a quick fix. Being that the cowl is only removed when the battery gets changed- what, every 2-3 years or so- that temporary fix will likely become permanent. No issues and I've had tons of rain in the past few months...

But, I appreciate the update all the same...

ILM-NC G37S That's a different seal. It sits on top of cowl. Seals underneath/inside cowl are not avail.

Maybe that seal replaces the "waxy rope" one, IDK. My car, '08 Coupe, does not have any other windshield/cowl seal other than the disintegrated foam tube.

Either way.....

Sorry we are talking about 2 diff things. Your seal above is a large seal like on your doors. sits on top of cowl. goes all the way across. stretches across both cowl pieces. it touches hood. it has nipples on the bottom of it where it sits into cowl. does your cowl have holes in the top with nothing in them?

once cowls are removed they have a very tight 1/8" or 1/4" inch gap where they touch windshield underneath. foam goes there.

Gotcha. I was looking at it from the wrong angle, I guess- a "Old Fart" moment... I forgot all about that rubber strip that seals the cowl to the hood!

The backer rod, or silicone, will still be the best remedy.

Thanks for clearing that up for this old man!

Nw brother! For the record i took off cabin air piece. Seal underneath very healthy. I'm skeptical. Water would have to go up and over metal lip to get in.
However I did install 3/8" backer rod in the channel in cowl (thanks G37sPhoton) and the cowl fits more snug now. We shall see! really hoping I'm done with this! My leak was only with heavy rain so it's not super easy to pinpoint.