Originally Posted by RMB5190 (Post 4184722)

Yup! 16/17 Ft. was more than enough for me when I incorporated the throttle bodies. 13 ft. when I didn't.

Just make sure you get the correct gauged connectors with 5/16 IDs

Originally Posted by RMB5190 (Post 4149201)

My apologies on getting this up everyone. Here is the way the kit is supposed to be set up. All points are circled and labeled. Blue 'mist' is there to show you how it is ran. I've added some additional connection to my TB and plan to re-do everything this winter in order to clean it up a bit. I'll make a new DIY if one hasn't been posted by then. If anyone has any questions in reference to the pics below - please don't hesitate to ask.

**Not a word on how dirty my bay is**:5091:

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...af407ecac7.jpg

Connections A-B-C

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...e5e52ec2e7.jpg

Closer of pic of Connection C

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...48ce1452e5.jpg

Connection C leading to Connection D

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...40bfb53384.jpg

Location of connection D

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...11c21f3fbb.jpg

Singe wire. Connections E-F

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...be07285c23.jpg

Connections G-H-I

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...2e1cf73812.jpg

Closeup of Connection H

Originally Posted by Flakman (Post 3906038)

I ran multiple cables to the block, but for cosmetic reasons more than anything.

I am also a car audio nut and agree with the big three. However, from what I understand, on the G, running a cable from Battery pos to Alternator output bypasses the car's charging sensor. It senses load and adjusts alternator output accordingly (apparently to save fuel). Therefore, bypassing this by connecting alternator output straight to the battery will keep the system thinking that it only needs to charge at a lower voltage and the battery will not get charged properly under load.

Someone can chime in to correct me if I'm wrong.

Originally Posted by RMB5190 (Post 4184722)

Yup! 16/17 Ft. was more than enough for me when I incorporated the throttle bodies. 13 ft. when I didn't.

Just make sure you get the correct gauged connectors with 5/16 IDs

Originally Posted by Dan G37 (Post 4186477)

For the Guaged connectors what would I need for the 4 AWG terminal guage. Don't I need to add 2 wires into 1 guage connector like the first thread on this DIY?

Originally Posted by RMB5190 (Post 4186828)

Sorry should've been more clear - Yes 4AWG for where two wires join but the actual opening (where the screw threads through) should be 5/16.

Example: 8AWG
https://www.genuinedealz.com/catalog...BVCLP-8-516%09

4AWG:
https://www.genuinedealz.com/catalog...6%2FBCLP-4-516

Different gauge size, same hole opening size. Hope that clears it up.

Originally Posted by RMB5190 (Post 4186835)

¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Not sure, maybe .5 - 1 ''?

Just cut your shrink wrap long enough to cover any exposed wire and still cover the connector's krimp area.

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Originally Posted by RMB5190 (Post 4187162)

Now that the DIY is fixed (photobucket block) & I've added my photos, a new, separate DIY is hardly necessary given how well this one was done.

Originally Posted by RMB5190 (Post 4187900)

I would so that the connection stays solid. I twisted, stuck in, crimped, heat wrapped, electrical taped all my connections; in that order.