Project Panda
 

Goals:
The car is my daily driver but intend to do autocrosses and track day with it. Balance is important to me. I’m not focused on making large amounts of power, but more so how the car feels overall, just enough power to make it slightly faster than what it is, improving braking with the right pads, increasing chassis stiffness and suspension responsiveness.


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How the looked when I arrived.
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My car next to my wife’s Q50

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Picking my 180sx up from the wreck yard
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• Uprev with ARC features
• Ecutek
• Specialty Z flex fuel kit

Engine: Intake

• K&N Typhoon
• Phase2Motor throttle bode halo
• Michael Upton’s 3” intake piping
• Rabbit Hole Motorsports 75mm throttle body Kit
• Rabbit Hole Motorsports ported upper intake manifold
• Rabbit Hole Motorsports ported lower intake manifold
• Rabbit Hole Motorsports 3" intake kit with velocity stacks
• AeroFlow air filters
• Apexi Power Intake air filters
• EPS 70mm throttle bodies
• JR Concepts oil catch can setup
• CFM Performance ported upper intake manifold
• CFM Performance ported lower manifold

Engine: Cooling

• CSF Tripple Pass Radiator
• Michael Upton's TB Coolant Delete Kit

Engine: Fuel

• GTR 550cc injectors

Engine: Exhaust

• Circuit Werks anti-reversion test pipes
• Motordyne ART pipes (VHR version 2)
• Motordyne ART pipes (DE version 3)
• Motordyne XYZ resonated y-pipe
• Topspeed y-back exhaust
• Motordyne E370 exhaust
• Shawn Hall 3.5" Super Single Exhaust
• Shawn Hall resonated y-pipe
• Z1 Motorsports headers

Engine: Block

• Z1 Motorsports magnetic oil drain bolt
• Z1 Motorsports urethane motor mounts
• MA Motorsports ATI super damper crank pulley

Drivetrain:

• Z1 Motorsports urethane mount
• J Solo Clutch Pedal Spring
• Central 3.916 final drive gear
• Bell Raceworks differential brace
• RJM heavy duty Tilton master cylinder
• RJM rev. 3.3 clutch pedal
• EPS Carbon Driveshaft (ordered)
• Z Speed Short Shifter
• Z Speed EZ Street Stage 2 w/ Quiet Disk Option
• Z Speed 12.3 lb Aluminum Flywheel
• Z Speed heavy dutty flywheel bolts
• Z Speed CMAK CSC Delete

Chassis:

• Z1 Motorsports subframe collars
• Z1 urethane differential bushing
• Ultra Racing front strut bar

Suspension:

• H&R springs
• Tein Mono Sport Coilovers
• SPL Parts front upper control arms
• SPL Parts rear camber arms
• SPL Mid-Links w/ 6" 12k Swift springs
• SPL Parts front and rear sway bar endlinks
• SPL Parts R35 tie rod ends
• SPL FKS Front Impact Bushings
• Eibach front and rear sway bars
• GK Tech Rear Knuckle Sphericla Bushings

Brakes:

• Z1 Motorsports front and rear slotted 2 piece rotors
• Z1 Motorsports front and rear stainless steel lines
• Z1 Motorsports Brake Master Cylinder Brace
• Stoptech 309 street pads

Exterior:

• Carbon fiber trunk spoiler lip
• Autokits X diffuser
• Blacked out roof
• Weather Tech Rain Guards
• TS1 Autoworks modified headlights
• OneEighty custom headlights
• wrapped chrome trimming
• TS1 custom headlights
• OEM Sport lip
• Outcast Garage G35 carbon fiber front splitter
• TBW front under tray
• TBW rear under tray

Wheels:

• Enkei RPF1 18x9.5 +15 / 18x10.0 +38
  • Toyo Proxes 255/40R18 / 285/35R18
• SSR MS1 19x9 +25 / 19x10 +29
• '13-'14 370Z Wheels 19x9 +47 / 19x10 +30
• Advan AVS Model T6 18x8 +30 / 18x9 +35
  • NItto 555 G2 245/45R18 / 275/40R18

Future/Dream Parts:

• Successful Automotive Bella Trunk
• Successful Automotive M-Fenders
• Access Evolution Rear Diffuser
• Carbon Signal Hood
• JWT C2 Cams
• OS Giken 1.5 LSD or Wavetrac
• ZSpeed Stage 2 EZ-Street Quiet Clutch + ZSP Billet Steel Flywheel + CSC Delete
• Soul Function / Ultra Racing / GT Spec Chassis Braces
• ATI Super Damper Pulley
• Booster Performance single turbo kit
• EPS Cabon Fiber Driveshaft

Nice build thread start, looking forward to more as you go. Wonder if this G was on the site in the past, sure looks familiar??? New wheels look nice on that white G and great rolling shot.
Looks like a nice collection of Nissan history too, any more pics of the past?

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Looking good. That's a ton of mods for just having had the car for over a month. Welcome to the club and enjoy!

stealing a dude's modded out car, which he worked hard to build, and stripping it down for parts like that is just low, totally disrespectful. Sorry man, hopefully this build will be just as satisfying for you as your last without the previous bad happenings.

As the holiday rolls around, I'll get some free time to install these parts.

Z1 Slotted 2 piece rotors, front and rear along with Stoptech #309 pads.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...82a83e0292.jpg


I bought a full differential assembly with 3.916 gearing from Central20 off a 350z. The housing will get cleaned up and painted
. Adding the Z1 differential cover to it also. I figured I might as well do the bushings while I'm there so I bought the subframe-differential hushing and the two that go in the differential.


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...15ff0b3cc2.jpg



My gaskets to do my valve cover and replacements for when I swap to my ported intake manifold also came in. But Concept Z sent me one wrong gasket to goes between the head and the lower manifold.

Those are some quality upgrade choices. Looking forward yo updates when you have them on the car.

Last night, Martin helped me flash my car back to stock form on Uprev so I can transition to Ecutek. I needed to send a ROM file to Ecutek have my VIn in their system. However, I got an email this morning from them saying that my ROM file I provided is supported on ProECU and to make sure I have the latest version. I'll try to run an update and see how it comes out.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...71dea2f0ca.jpg

I manage to buy a set of intake manifold and GTR 550cc injector in the fuel rail for a great price. The manifolds were port by CFM Performance. Install last night overall, went pretty well.

Martin also had my car switched over to Ecutek now. All I have to do tonight is reinstall my intake pipes and attempt to start the car. If all is good, the car should start right up with no issues.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...5b79e5c3c6.jpg

Lower manifold with GTR 550cc injector in the fuel rail already.


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...e68ce09b46.jpg

Left is the ported and the right is the original.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...cd15646bd4.jpg
This was what I saw after removing the lower intake manifold.


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I tried to clean off as much of the gunk as possibly.


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I emptied out my oil catch can. This was about 3,000 miles.


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After a long drive to get to the shop, my car kept throwing a MAF code and I had to reset the code every couple of miles, I finally got on the dyno.


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...35022306e2.jpg
Martin working his magic.


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...eda0d2df38.jpg
Final numbers weren't what I expected, and still on the super low end compared to what I am reading everywhere else, but the car feels amazing, not to mention I'm getting 30 mpg now.

That's a nice A/F line for a N/A car. You can't complain with 30mpg, lol.

Why did you go from uprev to ecutek?

Did you ever consider admin tuned?

I couldn't believe I was actually getting 30-32mpg. I manage to squeeze an extra day before I have to pump.

I originally wanted someone local so my choices were Jon at Z1 or Martin (R.S. Enthalpy Tune), and Jon said it was a lot of work to get the EPS throttle bodies and 3" right and he was super busy so that left me with Martin. I knew from the stat I wanted Ecutek since my plan is to go flex fuel, but during my first tune session, the organizer mistakenly wrote me down for Uprev instead of Ecutek.

I had a lot of trouble with the drivability on Uprev with the EPS throttle body, its not to say that other tuners could have made it work, but Martin mentioned that same day that he hasn't found a solution on Uprev. He offered to retune my car for free on Ecutek so I decided to go ahead to do ported intake manifolds and larger injectors. If I had more time, I would have done fuel pump also.

Martin tunes more on Ecutek and switching over has been night and day in terms of drivabilty. I'm still trying to figure out some small idle issues, not sure if i have a vacuum leak or what but its minor.

What were your engine mods for that dyno? Running E85 or just bigger injectors?

CFM Performance Ported Upper and Lower Intake Manifold
EPS Throttle Bodies
Michael Upton's 3" Long Tube Intakes
Circuit Werks Test Pipes
Motordyne Y-pipe
TopSpeed y-back exhaust

larger injectors were just in prepartion for going E85 but I'm still on 93. On Dynojets, I think others with the same mods have been putting doing numbers in the 330s. I plan to get my car dynoed over at Z1 for a better comparison.

I'll be honest, I'm more interested in the curve then the max HP. The numbers are good in my opinion. Z1, TopSpeed, and CounterSteer, uses a Dynojet; Forged i think uses a DynoDynamics. I was trying to figure out why you have a 25ft/lb drop from 6k to 7k.

Your short runner length on your plenum should have helped with your high end, but didn't. Most VQ37s have that much loss (give or take) in that range before just dropping past 7k, but some can hold the line at 6k till 7k. I am starting to think its headers that do it.

Once you go E85 you will 330s, easy, however expect your gas mileage to drop down to about 22-23 mpg when above 25%E.

This is a graph from my first tune. On my second tune, I converted over to Ecutek and added ported upper and lower intake manifolds.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...aa444b70ff.jpg

I wonder when I switch over to my Motordyne full exhaust if I'll pick up more on top? Thank you for your insight.

I would be curious to see. It's hard to get data on the same engine with dynos at the same dyno. I took the liberty of overlapping your two posted dynos so you can look at what was gained with the ported manifolds and ECUtek. If you can get the charts for your re-tune with exhaust and 93OCT, then your final with E85 (with your E %) that would actually be super insightful if you used the same dyno.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...134aa0d23e.jpg

Great build. So many nice upgrades so far. :biggthumpup:

Small updates:

I've only had two instances where during my drive through heavy rain, my car started to buck and I couldn't go past half throttle. After the rain stopped and could drive the car with no problems. I figured a filter mesh was a small insurance and the cost of the mesh was cheap.

These Sick Speed filter meshes fit the Apexi filters perfectly.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...be475b4621.jpg
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good idea however with my experience these socks do alter airflow alot. So much infact i was told to avoid them altogether.
i wouldnt drive too hard with them on.
nice build sir.

You could also dyno with them on and verify air flow or possibly have a winter tune for them.

I have very similar mods and managed 302whp at Z1. They told me that the topspeed exhaust is very restrictive and holding me back. I have another appt with them in feb. By then I'll have 3in intakes, headers and a single exit. Hoping for a huge increase.

I still want to have my car dynoed with them for a more comparative result. I wonder if I can book the same day also? When's your appointment?

Feb 14th Valentine's day. That would be interesting if you could make it

For sure! My appt is 10am-1230. But i'd stay to watch your dynos. Matt, what do you mean by larger test pipes?

With free time during the New Year, I figured why not tackle a few mods.

The Z1 Transmission mount is one I've been looking to do for a while and thank to Tony (ttv36), he sent me one and I only had to cover shipping. The install was straight forward, but lining the hole to thread the bolt through was a bit annoying since I had to orientation the top and bottom portion of the mount perfectly. I haven't had a chance to drive the car yet since I'm still trying to finish my brakes.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...1426292247.jpg


I went ahead and did all things brake related; Z1 front and rear 2 piece rotors, Z1 stainless steel lines, and StopTech Sport pads.

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Z1 had sent me a rotor hat for a 2017 Q60. I adjusted my parking brakes all the way out and it still didn't make contact. It was when I posted on Facebook asking about this, that someone pointed out the part was not for my car. So I'll be heading to Z1 Saturday morning to trade in these for ones that fit G37/370Z.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...7863b3baf0.jpg

The OEM is much smaller.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...d825040849.jpg

Because the y-pipe had to come off to install the transmission mount, I was sadden by the destruction of my second y pipe, and this hadn't been on the car but a few months.

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I used metal bumper clips, placed inside of the frame holes and matching bolts to hold up the protection plate on the sides.
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I knew I needed something in the center to keep it from flapping during high speed driving so I used the holes on the transmission cross member.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...ca79d27bc8.jpg
I know the overall result is janky, but my makeshift protection plate is doing its job. After replacing the y-pipe twice, its much easier replacing a $20 aluminum sheet than a $400 pipe or flex section repair. I plan to make a better version in the near future but I just needed something on to drive for the time being. There is a ton of rattling and metal noise but I am willing to live with it knowing I'm saving my y-pipe when going over the speed bumps in my neighborhood.

Looking good bro

I ordered a set of Tein Mono Sport coilovers a little over a week and received it a couple of days ago. I chose these over Fortune Auto or KW due to the EDFC Active Pro, but Fortune Auto was a very close choice. That will be next on my list. I don't care too much for true style rears. I'll have a review up when I install them next Friday.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...94b52db701.jpg

Thanks, I've been following all your upgrades and adventures on IG. Headers will definitely have to be next for me.

Why is that?

The reduced weight from the spring bucket is nice but its also an additional part I have to buy and I already have toe bolts that work for me. I have also always felt staying with the spring bucket style may provide the best compromise of comfort and performance from where the weight of the car sits. I don't have any data to back my feelings up. But this thread was one I read many years ago and it helped me come to the decision.

https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...-or-not-2.html

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...434d1c083b.jpg


I pulled all the old stock and springs off to compare with the Tein Coilovers. Everything is on the car now, but I am considering making some protection sleeve. Aftermarket ones are selling for about $50 a pair, and I'm sure I can make something up for way less. I've never used a sewing machine before but I'm about to learn.



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I pulled my Top Speed exhaust off and lined up all the pieces for the Motordyne to get an idea how it needs to be orientated. When I get more free time this week, I'll be installing the Motordyne. I also plan to go ahead and install my Z1 subframe collars. If my new differential comes in on time, Friday, then I'll install that along with replacing the subframe differential bushing. Just trying to get as much done while the car is on jack stands and various components are off.

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All the goodies that have been sitting since November of last year. Z1 differential cover Z1 subframe collar Bell Raceworks diff brace Central20 3.916 final drive (in 350z housing)
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Had some Amsoil 80W90 gear fluid sitting around.
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350z 46 teeth tone ring vs G37 48 teeth tone ring
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Painted the differential housing with high temperature paint
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Completed unit
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Z1 cover looking good
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nice work on t he Diff!...question though... whats the point/difference of changing the "tone ring"?...I honestly have no idea what it does lol

I believe since its a 350Z this is the only thing you need to change to make it work on a G37. So he took the ones from his diff and put them in the 350Z to make it fit.

let me know how you like it. How much did you find the diff for? I want the 4.08's... but if the 3.9 is cheap enough...

Its exactly what SupraofDoom explained. Its the wheel speed sensor that attached to the diff.

I didn't get a chance to complete the install yet as I am in the process of yanking out the subframe diff bushing. I was in the process of trading with a guy for his 4.08 diff but when I received it, one of the ring tooth was broken so I shipped it back to him and decided to install my 3.916. Its the same gearing found on 2015+ 370z nismo (with VLSD) and manual G37 verts (open diff)

Let us know how that diff brace is. I haven't installed mine yet.

Sorry for being a bit dense on this...just curious cause I've done a few of these but never thought to change the stub axles for that particular reason lol....so if you don't change these the speedometer will it be running fast or slow (my gut says fast)? any idea by how much it'd be off by?

Will post my review as soon as I get the car on the road. I'm dying to drive the car now.

I'm not too sure to be honest. The 350z/G35 has 46 teeth and the 370Z/G37 have 48 teeth.

You and me both. And a number of others I suspect, mostly people who bought it over winter.

Hey Panda, on the assumption that pic is what I'm seeing, love that matte silver finish on the Z1 diff cover.

That Made in USA sticker... kind of crude for Bell to throw that on, but stickers can come off and it's all subjective.

Man, now that I try to think back on it, I can't even remember how the finish is. lol. The picture does seem like its a matte finish. I'm too lazy to peel the sticker off.

Nice rpf1s you got there. What size are they?

Thanks, sadly they are 17x9 and won't fit on the G. I had them on my previous car. I'm trying to sell them now.

I have 18x9 +35 rpf1 in the rear. They clear the rear akebonos but not the fronts.

Enkei told me the fronts will need 18x8.5 +30 to clear front akebonos.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...5dfd7d912e.jpg

Dam that looks so good. I know 18x9.5 +15 also clears the Akebono up front, but +38 will not.

I wouldn't recommend 18x9.5 +15. Those are really aggressive and will protrude pretty far past the fender.

There's a guy I'm following on Instagram with 18x9.5 +15 rpf1 in SBC on his g37 6 speed with akebonos and they look really aggressive.

This is how my 18x9 +35 look

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...9a84c75206.jpg
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Even my 18x9 +35 sticks out a bit more than I would like. The 18x9.5 +15 stick out WAY more.

i agree it’s aggressive on a sedan but if someone really wanted to, with enough camber it can fit. I’d like to get something lighter than what I currently have and don’t want to rock RPF1s again, but they are so hard to beat for the price and weight

Enkei nt03+m are cheap and light.

I was very disappointed over this past weekend. I was expecting the subframe collars to be at most a 1 hour job but it ended up taking me 4 hours.

First, the captive-weld nut in the chassis that the small sub-frame brace is held in by breaks on me so I had to cut the bolt off. I spent most of my time trying to find something that would fit in the space and I didn't have anything to burn it off.

I also sheared off all three bolts that held up the plastic rear shield.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...f3ee210fbe.jpg

During the process of installing the collars, I guess my rubber bushings were in such great condition that I had the hardest time fitting it in. I had to resort to using a jack with a tube pipe to push the collar in.

This is how it current fits in the rear. Is this normal?

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...4f732831de.jpg

I sold this particular lip a while back and bought one brand new pre-painted, but I never installed it since my bumper was in such bad shape. This lip happen to be on sale by the guy I sold it to and asked if I could buy it back. Now, I have a crappy lip with a crappy bumper. A perfect match.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...9d1b9f6f42.jpg


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sucks to hear...almost sounds like you are working on a northern car...broken bolts seized from corrosion is usually half the working time in areas where they use road salt....tons of PB blaster and a good thread chaser set is a must up here ... I hope you post a you tube video on your install though...Iv'e had my collars sittign i nthe garage for at least a year now waiting on me getting to them...

can you post better pics of the bushing sitting? its hard to tell from the pic posted but it does look to be sitting a little high

I did some recording and I'll edit the video tonight or tomorrow and post it up. I'll swing by by car tonight and get some photos for ya.

I also just installed Z1 subframe collar inserts yesterday. The top collar inserts were simple and easily fell into place. The lower collars were a bitch. I sprayed the bushing with silicone lubricant and also sprayed the collar inserts. Didn't make going in any easier. I had a rubber mallet to beat it in and didn't have any luck. Since I had the car up on a lift I decided to grab a pole jack and use a 38mm axle nut socket to help press the lower inserts in. Everything went in fine after that.

Took me about 1.5 hours and that was because I wasted a good bit of time trying to use a rubber mallet to hit the lower collar in. I finally decided to just remove part of my exhaust to get more access and use a pole jack to press it in.

Question: Does the rear top collar protrude above the rubber bushing a bit, unlike the front collar? I thought it odd that the front collar sat flush with the rubber bushing and my top rears did not.

I had a lot of trouble with my rear bottom collar. I had to use jack and tube to get enough force to push it in.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...2d0e5b72dd.jpg
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Thanks for the reference pictures. Mine looks the same then and I have nothing to worry about.

Hopefully I'll have my diff bushing cut out and replaced this weekend. Once I have that done, I should be smooth sailing for the rest of the install of the differential and my exhaust.

I used my jack to push the subframe up and then began bolting it back. It eventually went into place properly.

I started my differential bushing replacement last weekend but didn't have time to finish it. I managed to at least get the inner part out using the Z1 tool. I hope to finish this tomorrow and also have everything including my exhaust installed back on for Friday Night Drags at AMS. But if not then finished by Saturday for a dyno day.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...432233ab48.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...2a81545cd9.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...870427e31c.jpg

I got bored and decided to weigh up my Motordyne exhaust. This scale isn't very accurate so the numbers night be +/- 3lbs with a total is about 65 lbs.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...0488b7950c.jpg

This is the hardware weighed together in a bag (clamps and bolts). About 3 lbs


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...e95f2133f5.jpg

Mid-Muffler at about 14 lbs


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...7ee06b00be.jpg

Left rear canister at 12lbs


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...e70a26c4dd.jpg

Right mid-pipes at about 8 lbs


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...feebd334a2.jpg

Y-collector at about 8 lbs


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...ddd1f466ad.jpg

Left mid-pipes at about 8 lbs


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...f904ef4485.jpg

Right rear canister at 12 lbs

You borrowing that tool? I need to eventually do my diff bushing. Already got my Whiteline bushings.

Any idea what the stock exhaust weighed?

Im currently borrowing the tool off The370z.com forum. I am not sure if they want to keep it within the forum to keep track of members but I’ll post up when I’m done and see if it’s koo to lend it to you.

im not sure the stock exhaust weight.

Nice! Yeah I think I remember seeing that thread. I'm a member on there but I am on here a lot more. How much did the tool help and how was the overall job? Can it be done in a day/half day, assuming I already have the right tools and everything?

Along with the Whiteline diff bushings, I have the Bell brace for the OEM diff cover to install as well so I figured do it all at once.

The tool didn’t help me much. I was only able to use it for the inner rubber pieces. I still had to use a saw to cut the sleeve. It’s do-able within a day but I just take forever to do things.

but you are welcome to borrow the tool next. Just post up on the thread. It’s the perfect time to do everything since you’ll have the diff out. Same scenario for me.

I didn’t use the tool for installing. I bought some angles shelve brackets and used a long bolt to pull the bushing through. However, I’m ran into the problem of not being able to pull the using through any more and it’s keeping me from being able to bolt my diff back to the car

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...7fd0bacf2.jpeg
Finally removed the metal sleeve today. Accidentally made lots of nicks around the subframe but it is what it is.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...d7b944043.jpeg
I thought I would be able to push the bushing in by hand after freezing it. How wrong I was.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...04474bc04.jpeg
I went out to Home Depot to buy this shelf bracket to help me pull the bushing through the subframe.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...cd269ede6.jpeg
Front side of the bushing. I noticed after I attempted to mount my diff back on the car that I needed to have the bushing pushed in more.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...3831a7d0a.jpeg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...ab4408c1e.jpeg
The Bell Raceworks differential brace is a breeze to install. I used a wrench with the nut on the closed end, held it in place with one hand, then with the other, put the bolt through the brace, and threaded a few threads to hold the brace up.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...5d544abcb.jpeg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...f6dacd94d.jpeg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...68b8c9411.jpeg
After I got everything situated with the differential, I put on my new exhaust. Man does it sound good.

Were you able to get the bell raceworks nut to seat flush inside the rear subframe? I tried but couldn't.

Mine sits like this
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...c58dd742b5.jpg

Also how did your car do on the dyno?

Mine sits the same way are yours. I think it might be one of the tack welds that keeping it from sitting flush.

On the mustang dyno today:

Max HP: 338
with WCF: 343

Max Torque: 278
with WCF: 287

Sweet, who are you tuned by and are those E85 or 91/93 numbers?

Also where did you purchase the CFM performance ported intake runners? I did a Google search and had 0 results.

I'm tuned by Martin from R.S. Enthalpy. He’s from Miami but travels around to do group tune sessions. This dyno was just a random dyno and no tuning. I’m currently only 93.

CFM is a shop in Indiana. They specialize in porting.

https://www.cfmperformance.com/

I bought some new tires for the SSR wheels, 225/45R19 and 255/40R19. I also went ahead and raised my car since my Motordyne was getting beaten up badly and with all the bridges in Atlanta, my sub-frame was also taking a beating when it hits the bridge joints.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...808117af42.jpg

Which ones are the SSR wheels? I really like the light gold, split 8-spokes with the chrome lip. Those could look real fine on a moonlight white car.

So I guess if they're the dark bronze 6-spokes... nevermind, LOL

Its the ones with the chrome lip. The 6 spoke wheels were temp wheels and nobody liked them on the car. I am hoping to sell them and pick another set up as track duties.

Staggered 19", FTW. I think 19" is the perfect size for the Sedan. IMO, only the Coupe can do 20" right. On the Sedan, 18" looks almost too small, but not so bad. And 17" just looks dumb.

Pics on the car?

This past Saturday, I joined a dyno day reserved for VQ motors. This was the perfect opportunity for m eto get a good comparison against other G37/370z on the same dyno in the same day.

However, my numbers were so disappointing.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...fcc3af1851.jpg


There was a G37 with only K&N intakes, test pipes, and Motordyne exhaust that put out 318 whp. And I'm here with ported Upper and Lower plenums, 3" intakes and EPS throttle bodies on top of him only to make about the same power, 320 whp.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...facc07ab72.jpg


I didn't stay all day but right before I left, the highest dyno was 353 whp from a G37. Long tube intakes, ported upper plenum, Z1 Headers, Tomei test pipes, and Motordyne exhaust.

Now I want to check if my compression is good, then maybe replace my Circuit Werks test pipes with ART pipes. I already have new 3" intakes, TBs, and plenums coming.

I picked up a set of ART pipes for a good deal. They are a bit busted up but no holes, or cracks present. I don't mind my current Circuit Werks test pipes but these will hopefully get rid of the hiss. I also like that these are the brackets that bolt to the tunnel brace.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...b755902c19.jpg

Nice bro! It will definitely help with the hiss/rasp. Get those refinished or polished then wrap them or ceramic coat. I wrapped mine with DEI and high temp spray. Check my IG; jpowers36.

That's my plan. I have some left over wrap, so I figured I would use it on them. What high temp paint did you use? I've been your follower on IG for a while.

These look like V2 which I do believe came ceramic coated (or some other form of coating) - thicker welds, non-stainless finish and no resonator support bracket.

Should still make power and the sound that you're looking for! The way I see it is that the numerous sales of V2s funded the upgraded look and quality of the V3s.

Its scraped pretty bad on the bottom so I was thinking of using some VHT high temp paint on the whole thing. These have the support bracket on the other side. Didn't you sell a set not long ago? What pipes are you running now?

Sorry, I am referencing the support of the resonator to the pipe itself. So two bracket supports each: one for resonator to pipe and one that replicates the support bracket of the stock catalytic converters. Also, I believe that only the V3s have the Motordyne logo embossed. This is an addition on the V3s.

I sold my V2s and picked up a set of V3s. Installed two weeks ago with an O2 sensor spacer and no CEL light for my 2016 370Z. These are also paired with a Motordyne Shockwave and the sound is great. Absolutely no hiss.