Motorsports / Track Th ultimate forum to discuss motorsports / track related topics for your G37.

The G37S is a great track car

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-13-2016, 03:05 PM
  #31  
4DRZ
Registered Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
 
4DRZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Appleton, WI
Posts: 4,724
Received 697 Likes on 499 Posts
Originally Posted by Splitter
The RE050A's on the car at the moment at 140 treadwear and they are MILES harder than the RE-71R's I had on my miata. I felt the RE-71R's were more like an R-comp in disguse and I guess my concern was that the extra weight on a relatively small tyre (I will be keeping stock rims, so 245 front and 265 rear) would just wear away the soft tyre too quickly.

I also don't want to over tyre the car, the stock suspension probably won't like it too much and will reduce enjoyment rather than add, plus it's a daily and I'm in Houston (I never knew what rain was until I moved here!) so I will go with your advice on the RE-11s then, sounds like what I'm looking for. Thanks!
I think that is a wise move based on what you will be using the car for primarily. The RE-11 is still a great tire and probably still overkill for a street tire.
Old 04-13-2016, 03:25 PM
  #32  
VenomGT9
Registered Member
iTrader: (4)
 
VenomGT9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Ft. Campbell / Chicago
Posts: 1,452
Received 226 Likes on 195 Posts
Old 04-13-2016, 05:49 PM
  #33  
4DRZ
Registered Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
 
4DRZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Appleton, WI
Posts: 4,724
Received 697 Likes on 499 Posts
Yup, that's overkill alright. Haha!
Old 04-13-2016, 06:52 PM
  #34  
RadioFlyer
Registered Member
iTrader: (1)
 
RadioFlyer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Los Angeles, CA.
Posts: 404
Received 75 Likes on 50 Posts
As for air to the brakes, you can just cut a hole in the inside of the front fender liners. In the coupe sport front bumper, you can remove the dummy hole-blockers on the sides of the front fascia, and it is sealed off on the inner side against the radiator. That means that if you have a hole taking in air from the front, and a vent in the inner side of the wheel well, there is no where else for the air to go other than OUT of the front wheel wells past the brakes. It's not ducting, but it kept my brakes cool with Carbotech XP12/10 and RBF 660 fluid. I also have an oil cooler in the driver's side vent hole, let me see if I can get some pics...

Here is a shot of the hole on the driver's side:
https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a...D720/ry%3D480/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a...D720/ry%3D480/

(Sorry for the links, the pics didn't upload for some reason.)

Last edited by RadioFlyer; 04-13-2016 at 06:59 PM.
Old 04-14-2016, 01:08 PM
  #35  
slartibartfast
Super Moderator
iTrader: (7)
 
slartibartfast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 6,090
Received 836 Likes on 715 Posts
Splitter, which track are you running in August, Harris Hills or COTA?

Dang my fog lights, right where I should be shunting air.
Old 04-14-2016, 01:21 PM
  #36  
Splitter
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
 
Splitter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 250
Received 24 Likes on 22 Posts
Shame about how easy it is to get access behind the fog lights, I thought that would be a great spot too! I spoke with Infiniti in an effort to get some spare fog light surrounds to use to make up a ducting kit and they wanted $200 per light.... So, I'm going to zip tie some ram ducts in front of the radiator and pipe through to the brakes.

COTA, with the Ultimate Street Car Challenge.
Old 04-14-2016, 02:17 PM
  #37  
4DRZ
Registered Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
 
4DRZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Appleton, WI
Posts: 4,724
Received 697 Likes on 499 Posts
Originally Posted by Splitter
Shame about how easy it is to get access behind the fog lights, I thought that would be a great spot too! I spoke with Infiniti in an effort to get some spare fog light surrounds to use to make up a ducting kit and they wanted $200 per light.... So, I'm going to zip tie some ram ducts in front of the radiator and pipe through to the brakes.

COTA, with the Ultimate Street Car Challenge.

Take some pics when you get these set up. I am curious to see where you run the tubing. If you have a infrared heat light you should try running one session with one duct blocked off to see the difference in temps. I ran without any ducts on Sun. and the brakes actually held up pretty well.

I can relate to the fog light issue. I had an '09 STI that I had to remove the fog lights for track days and then replaced them w/ naca ducts to send air to the brakes. It was a slick set up and not too much of a PITA to swap over.
Old 04-14-2016, 02:20 PM
  #38  
4DRZ
Registered Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
 
4DRZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Appleton, WI
Posts: 4,724
Received 697 Likes on 499 Posts
Originally Posted by RadioFlyer
As for air to the brakes, you can just cut a hole in the inside of the front fender liners. In the coupe sport front bumper, you can remove the dummy hole-blockers on the sides of the front fascia, and it is sealed off on the inner side against the radiator. That means that if you have a hole taking in air from the front, and a vent in the inner side of the wheel well, there is no where else for the air to go other than OUT of the front wheel wells past the brakes. It's not ducting, but it kept my brakes cool with Carbotech XP12/10 and RBF 660 fluid. I also have an oil cooler in the driver's side vent hole, let me see if I can get some pics...

Here is a shot of the hole on the driver's side:
https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a...D720/ry%3D480/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a...D720/ry%3D480/

(Sorry for the links, the pics didn't upload for some reason.)
Probably not as effective as ducting aiming the air directly at the inside center of the rotors, but it might help. I would think a lot of the air would get sucked around the wheels from the movement, but maybe not. Did you take any temps with one side open and one side blocked off?
Old 04-14-2016, 03:34 PM
  #39  
Splitter
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
 
Splitter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 250
Received 24 Likes on 22 Posts
Originally Posted by 4DRZ
Take some pics when you get these set up. I am curious to see where you run the tubing. If you have a infrared heat light you should try running one session with one duct blocked off to see the difference in temps. I ran without any ducts on Sun. and the brakes actually held up pretty well.

I can relate to the fog light issue. I had an '09 STI that I had to remove the fog lights for track days and then replaced them w/ naca ducts to send air to the brakes. It was a slick set up and not too much of a PITA to swap over.
I'm just going to follow the way the 370 boys do it. Some good pics for example here:

Project 370z - Stillen brake duct kit install and testing

http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...ing-ducts.html


I'm going to purchase proper brake cooling ducts, but this guy has the right attitude for getting the air in to the rotor with some pipe hammered to shape and bolted using the wheel hub bolts.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension...-20-bucks.html
Old 04-14-2016, 04:38 PM
  #40  
Kris9884
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
 
Kris9884's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: MO
Posts: 2,074
Received 202 Likes on 186 Posts
I think the G is a great track car too. We had a recent Cars & Coffee meet and went on a 40+ mile cruise afterwards. There were about 50 cars on the cruise, anything from Vettes, Ferraris, R8's, S4's, Mustangs, SLK AMG, M3's a couple Z's and me in my coupe. There were 3 checkpoints and by the 3rd checkpoint there was only an R8, a Vette, the SLK AMG and me waiting around for almost 15 minutes for the others to catch up. We all went full ***** through the Ozark mountains and I had no problem keeping up with the stock Sport suspension. To be honest, the only car that was even competitive in the turns was the AMG Mercedes. Don't have to believe me but everyone was thoroughly surprised and was positive I had numerous suspension/engine mods. I can attest to the G-Force COMP2 tires helping a ton but a stock car is a stock car. These G's are beasts in the corners and no slouch in the straights.
Old 04-14-2016, 06:10 PM
  #41  
RadioFlyer
Registered Member
iTrader: (1)
 
RadioFlyer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Los Angeles, CA.
Posts: 404
Received 75 Likes on 50 Posts
Originally Posted by 4DRZ
Probably not as effective as ducting aiming the air directly at the inside center of the rotors, but it might help. I would think a lot of the air would get sucked around the wheels from the movement, but maybe not. Did you take any temps with one side open and one side blocked off?
No I didn't take any comparison tests. I'm not worried about it - did five 25 min sessions where I was braking from just under 140 to about 50mph at the end of the straights. Braking wasn't an issue.

And I agree that obviously, it would be better to have a duct there, but for my car, on street tires, and just Koni/Swifts, basically a street car, it's totally fine for the one-off track days that she sees.

The other thing to consider, if you're tracking the car, is to get a vented hood. It helps a lot to let air OUT after going into the radiator/oil cooler. The cheap alternative is to run without the undertray, no undertray is worth about 7-10 degrees in water temp.
Old 04-14-2016, 06:16 PM
  #42  
Splitter
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
 
Splitter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 250
Received 24 Likes on 22 Posts
Originally Posted by RadioFlyer
The cheap alternative is to run without the undertray, no undertray is worth about 7-10 degrees in water temp.
This also fall in to the 'it depends on your usage' but taking the undertray off will promote higher airflow UNDER the car, which will increase lift and reduce stability.

Hood venting works for sure, but then REDUCING air flow by using large blocking plates and proper radiator airflow ducting will work to get temps down too

Given my 0 engine mods, I'm going to go with oil cooler and brake cooling as priority #1. Cooling the brakes will also help with pad wear, and at the $$$ of the carbotech combo, I'm happy to save some money if I can.
Old 04-14-2016, 07:08 PM
  #43  
RadioFlyer
Registered Member
iTrader: (1)
 
RadioFlyer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Los Angeles, CA.
Posts: 404
Received 75 Likes on 50 Posts
^ True, but if you're on the stock radiator, a little less front downforce is more fun than limp mode on a track day. You could always wait until you go into limp mode and then take it off for the next session. I didn't have the limp mode problem (CSF Triple Pass radiator), but supposedly, these cars go into limp mode right away under track use.
Old 04-14-2016, 07:13 PM
  #44  
Kris9884
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
 
Kris9884's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: MO
Posts: 2,074
Received 202 Likes on 186 Posts
Yeah that's weird, I haven't ran into limp mode yet and I've definitely driven it hard for almost 3-4 hours straight during my cruise...
Old 04-14-2016, 08:52 PM
  #45  
4DRZ
Registered Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
 
4DRZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Appleton, WI
Posts: 4,724
Received 697 Likes on 499 Posts
Originally Posted by Splitter
I'm just going to follow the way the 370 boys do it. Some good pics for example here:

Project 370z - Stillen brake duct kit install and testing

DIY - Brake Cooling Ducts - Nissan 370Z Forum


I'm going to purchase proper brake cooling ducts, but this guy has the right attitude for getting the air in to the rotor with some pipe hammered to shape and bolted using the wheel hub bolts.

DIY Brake Ducts for less then 20 bucks - LS1TECH
Those are some good links. Let me know how it works on the G37 and take some pics. As with my oil cooler I found out the hard way that the 370Z is similar to the G37, but definitely not exactly the same.


Originally Posted by RadioFlyer
No I didn't take any comparison tests. I'm not worried about it - did five 25 min sessions where I was braking from just under 140 to about 50mph at the end of the straights. Braking wasn't an issue.

And I agree that obviously, it would be better to have a duct there, but for my car, on street tires, and just Koni/Swifts, basically a street car, it's totally fine for the one-off track days that she sees.

The other thing to consider, if you're tracking the car, is to get a vented hood. It helps a lot to let air OUT after going into the radiator/oil cooler. The cheap alternative is to run without the undertray, no undertray is worth about 7-10 degrees in water temp.
No worries, one of those links above showed some huge temp. decreases with the brake ducts- 150ish degrees on one side and over 200 degrees on the other side.

I bet hood vents would help a ton if I had plates to close them when I was not at the track. Then again, it seemed to hold up will with the oil cooler.


Quick Reply: The G37S is a great track car



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:53 AM.