canucklehead

iTrader: (9)

well, damn. now this means i have to go and buy the RJM. it seems that even for a guy who didn't mind the OE setup this is a no-brainer considering minimal cost and relatively straightforward DIY. i suppose it will make the car easier to sell (whenever that happens) so maybe a return there as well...trying to convince myself.

thanks to Rochester for a great write-up. i'll be referencing a few handy bits when i do my inevitable install. after reading this yesterday i paid special attention to my clutch feel on the way to work today. yeah, i guess there is room for improvement. lol.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

LOL. Yeah, that kind of thing does happen here, doesn't it?

Glad you enjoyed the thread, canucklehead.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

There's an allen-head bolt used to lock down the dial. I think it's time to lock that down. With approximately 10 full turns available, I put it at full counter-clockwise, then back one turn. This for absolutely no scientific reason whatsoever.

The ignition sensor is engaged at nearly full depression of the pedal. I think it could probably come up 1/16th or so, but also don't think it matters. It works.

The cruise sensor seems kind of tight, and I don't want to compromise the top-of-clutch, so I need to back that off a turn or two. Although getting under the dash and accessing these nuts is a real PITA.

Falker11

iTrader: (3)

What do you mean by this? The alignment of the clutch pedal (ie even with the brake pedal or ahead/behind it a bit) or something else?

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

No, I'm good with the clutch pedal being even with the brake. That's how the instructions recommend alignment anyway. No, what I'm talking about is the Cruise Control sensor.

In normal running operation, Cruise Control is supposed to shut off when you depress the clutch pedal. The little plunger on the sensor top/front is depressed (circuit engaged) when the clutch pedal is fully released, allowing for the Cruise Control circuit to complete. As soon as you press the clutch pedal, you release that little plunger switch (circuit broken) and turn off Cruise Control.

The plunger on that switch extends like a tiny d1ck out of the end of the sensor, and hits against a white, plastic pad (striker) on the assembly. If the distance between this the striker and the switch is too close, then the Cruise Sensor itself is actually depressing the pedal, in a very subtle way, but nonetheless it's not good for the sensor, and it's not good for the actual clutch. It would be like "riding" the clutch, by always leaving your foot on it with just the weight of your foot for pressure. That's not a good thing. (If you're doing that, stop it. If you know better, sorry.)

As far as I understand this, with the pedal fully released, you want the pedal striker to depress the plunger in the sensor without actually resting on the switch with any force. In order to accomplish this, you have to back off on the two retaining nuts that hold the sensor in place.

How am I doing?

Falker11

iTrader: (3)

got it - makes sense...don't want the cruise switch applying any pressure to the clutch pedal.

so when you say:

"The cruise sensor seems kind of tight, and I don't want to compromise the top-of-clutch, so I need to back that off a turn or two."

you mean you are turning something on the cruise control switch?

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

Here's a pic of that appendage protruding from the switch body, boxed in red.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

I mean loosening the two retaining nuts on each side of the cruise control switch where the switch is threaded through the assembly, receding the switch back a thread or two, and then tightening the two retaining nuts so the switch is firmly in place. Digest that sentence in the context of jsolo's image, and you'll figger it out.

[edit]

I just backed the cruise control switch away from the striker by maybe two threads (two rotations), tightened it back up, and it seems perfect. When you touch the pedal, there is an extremely small play now that doesn't actually cause the main clutch shaft to move. Add a little more pressure, and then there is a slightly larger amount of play, which is all in the main shaft itself. Add full pressure and then there's engagement with the clutch shaft moving in and out.

Momma's got a squeezebox...

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Drove the car back and forth to LOWES this evening. I have this deep sense of contentment about how this pedal changes things up. Shifting through the lower gears is so very clean now. Never a thought to messing up. Rolling out of a dead stop is accomplished with total control. And launching out of the hole, intending to run hard into 2nd gear, is a fantastic new experience.

6MT Owners... Must. Get. This. Mod.

canucklehead

iTrader: (9)

Already ordered. Lol. Looking forward to a sore back and rib cage after the install. Unless I decide to remove the drivers seat...

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Crawling under there today and making adjustments... ugh. I completely understand how removing the driver's seat is good advice.

It was BB who advised that I get one of those handsfree headband LED lights. Picked up an Energizer model at the checkout line in LOWES for under $20. Very bright little thing, with 4 different settings. A must-have for under the dashboard.

MaQG37

iTrader: (4)

Your review has sold me. This is my next Mod. I know you mentioned you drive a 5.0 Mustang 2015.I'm sure you recall how easy it was to drive that thing. Would you compare the rjm pedal to The Mustangs easy clutch engagement?

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Test-drove the 2015 6MT Stang GT in June some time. I can't specifically address the differences between the two transmissions, because it was a while ago. But the Mustang was easier to drive than my G, no doubt. And much of that perception was likely in how the clutch engaged.

When I was done, and got back into my G, there were a number of immediate comparison impressions.

• My interior is much better (IMO).
• My window belt-line is way lower.
• The G's sport seats are better (IMO).
• Visibility is much better in the G.
• My shifter felt better (IMO).
• My clutch is (was) more difficult.
• My car's handling felt better (honest).
• The FI exhaust sounds better (IMO).
• My car was slower, in every respect.

That last item will always be what it is, unless I go FI someday, which I'm sure I won't. However, straight-line speed isn't the end-all to enjoying a car, and my G is plenty fast. Also, as appealing at the Mustang looks (from a distance), up close it's kind of crude. A modified G Sedan is still a much more attractive car. IMO.

MaQG37

iTrader: (4)

I had a lot of the same opinions as you. I wasn't as impressed as I thought I would be. My G was more comfy, luxurious, and in a cheaper package. The one thing that really stood out to me is the clutch engagement. When I'm driving others in my car, I really pay strong attention to my launches so I don't have to see their heads go back and forth. I think I'm a pretty decent manual driver but it can be tricky sometimes. I really hope the RJM can put the clutch engagement in the same ballpark as that Mustang.

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

The mustang gt I test drove recently had the same numb feeling clutch as the G (before spring mod). The camaro ss was even worse. The head bopping has more to do with how quickly you ease off the throttle before shifting than the clutch.

~$60K gets you a nice ZL1 with 580HP