'09 G37x - no start, LOW oil p0340 - HELP
04-18-2014, 01:35 PM
#31
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Good news!! Although it is not definite just yet, it is looking like I got ripped off!!!!!! Strange, I never thought id be happy about getting ripped off.
The a-holes that had my car never even removed the cam sensor (the one that you need to unplug in order to start the engine)...the guy who has my car now said he can tell from the corrosion on the bolts that they haven't been turned for a very long time. How do you replace a cam sensor without removing the old one first?
He may not get to my car today but his first impressions after a quick look is that the engine is perfectly fine. Based on how it sounds and how it sounds when he gives it some gas....there is no way that the timing is off by two degrees...
He did stress the importance of oil maintainence, but said these engines are so well built that they could run for a very long time while being starved of oil before giving out.
So...in short...I am cautiously optimistic.
I will keep you guys posted.
The a-holes that had my car never even removed the cam sensor (the one that you need to unplug in order to start the engine)...the guy who has my car now said he can tell from the corrosion on the bolts that they haven't been turned for a very long time. How do you replace a cam sensor without removing the old one first?
He may not get to my car today but his first impressions after a quick look is that the engine is perfectly fine. Based on how it sounds and how it sounds when he gives it some gas....there is no way that the timing is off by two degrees...
He did stress the importance of oil maintainence, but said these engines are so well built that they could run for a very long time while being starved of oil before giving out.
So...in short...I am cautiously optimistic.
I will keep you guys posted.
04-18-2014, 04:28 PM
#32
Can't wait for the update!
Just a question: do you use just normal Mobil 1 or the Mobil 1 EP? There's quite a difference between the two and Mobil 1 EP can last for 15k miles. I usually go about 7500 miles between Mobil 1 EP changes, half of what Mobil recommends so I know I might be overdoing it.
If you really don't like doing oil changes, I would recommend at least using Mobil 1 EP instead of the standard Mobil 1. It is only a couple dollars more for 5 qt than the regular.
Just a question: do you use just normal Mobil 1 or the Mobil 1 EP? There's quite a difference between the two and Mobil 1 EP can last for 15k miles. I usually go about 7500 miles between Mobil 1 EP changes, half of what Mobil recommends so I know I might be overdoing it.
If you really don't like doing oil changes, I would recommend at least using Mobil 1 EP instead of the standard Mobil 1. It is only a couple dollars more for 5 qt than the regular.
04-19-2014, 09:17 AM
#34
20k between oil changes....you've got to be kidding, do you hate your car or something?
Probably best to buy a used engine off of eBay and replace it
Even with synthetic oil I do changes every 5k and have never had engine problems
Probably best to buy a used engine off of eBay and replace it
Even with synthetic oil I do changes every 5k and have never had engine problems
04-19-2014, 09:46 AM
#35
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It's great the OP found a tech who could reassure him that his VQ is not totally trashed. But it's clear he's relying on the advice of whoever is working on his G and needs to rethink his own (mechanical) priorities. Yes, Infiniti engines are well built--some of the best in the world--but they also rely on fresh, clean oil as their lifeblood. That means regular oil/filter changes using time or mileage as guides.
While I hope the OP gets an accurate assessment of what's needed to get his car back on the road, but also that he doesn't go on with life thinking he got away with neglecting his car. He didn't, engine wear doesn't go away and he'll need to check his oil level on a weekly basis from here on out.
While I hope the OP gets an accurate assessment of what's needed to get his car back on the road, but also that he doesn't go on with life thinking he got away with neglecting his car. He didn't, engine wear doesn't go away and he'll need to check his oil level on a weekly basis from here on out.
04-19-2014, 03:28 PM
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Only since the last time has it been ~20k and honestly, I think I am over estimating that. Prior to that, I regularly changed oil.
04-19-2014, 03:30 PM
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It's great the OP found a tech who could reassure him that his VQ is not totally trashed. But it's clear he's relying on the advice of whoever is working on his G and needs to rethink his own (mechanical) priorities. Yes, Infiniti engines are well built--some of the best in the world--but they also rely on fresh, clean oil as their lifeblood. That means regular oil/filter changes using time or mileage as guides.
While I hope the OP gets an accurate assessment of what's needed to get his car back on the road, but also that he doesn't go on with life thinking he got away with neglecting his car. He didn't, engine wear doesn't go away and he'll need to check his oil level on a weekly basis from here on out.
While I hope the OP gets an accurate assessment of what's needed to get his car back on the road, but also that he doesn't go on with life thinking he got away with neglecting his car. He didn't, engine wear doesn't go away and he'll need to check his oil level on a weekly basis from here on out.
04-19-2014, 04:11 PM
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My car is now at a very reputable place, not Infiniti. They are connected to family so I feel even better off with it there.
I received an update from them....in nutshell:
-sensors are fine
-engine starts in limp mode when sensor is not installed and continues running in this mode after it is reinstalled. the engine will not retard timing while in this mode.
-engine sounds fine..they are not hearing any noises from the engine that they would expect to hear if the timing chain was stretched.
-they are leaving towards the sprocket thing that the cam sensor reads being the problem.
-he said he is certain problem is fixable without replacing engine.
-worse case scenario is he has to replace timing chain, gears and tensioner
They are going to take the cover off the engine Monday and get back to me. Ill keep you guys posted.
I received an update from them....in nutshell:
-sensors are fine
-engine starts in limp mode when sensor is not installed and continues running in this mode after it is reinstalled. the engine will not retard timing while in this mode.
-engine sounds fine..they are not hearing any noises from the engine that they would expect to hear if the timing chain was stretched.
-they are leaving towards the sprocket thing that the cam sensor reads being the problem.
-he said he is certain problem is fixable without replacing engine.
-worse case scenario is he has to replace timing chain, gears and tensioner
They are going to take the cover off the engine Monday and get back to me. Ill keep you guys posted.
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10-22-2014, 09:41 PM
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Resolution
Sorry for the long delay, but it wasn't until I got a notification of a reply recently that I was reminded of this. Good news is I am driving my car again and I must say the engine runs better then when I bought the thing...seriously. No more start and stalls either.
The guy that I ended up using lives and breaths engines. Took 10 weeks for him to get it fixed, but in the end - I'm happy with outcome.
He said my engine looked great inside, no sludge, no blue tints in the metal etc. He replaced the timing chain and tensionor (said it jumped a tooth), put oil in, started the care....but the issue persisted...and so the saga began...
Let me start with this disclaimer: Other then what I learned throughout this experience, I don't know much about engine parts and such...but I do ask a lot of questions...been a while too, but I will do my best to recall the technical detail here...
He dug in further, and identified a bad gasket around an "actuator" thing that is responsible for retarding the CAMS at high RPM's...apparently this actuator thing relies on oil pressure to do the retarding...so he fixed that and tested...actuator thing still would not retard cams...he then replaced the actuator thing....
Certain to have solved the problem, he finished with the replacement, added oil again and started the engine....and NOPE. Problem persisted. This had him perplexed so he had Infiniti look at the engine as well...that was no help as they too were left clueless and just recommended engine replacement.
Where most other mechanics give up, this guy just got more determined to figure this out...so I agreed to let him keep at it.
Now....let me just stop here to say that I am no mechanic. I know this...but I do recall reading on some forum thread somewhere that a guy with similar issues ultimately narrowed it down to CAM sprockets. Naturally, I relayed this information the day I dropped the car off with this guy - "Hey check the CAM sprockets" without even understanding or knowing what the hell a CAM sprocket was beyond a quick google search.
I actually do believe this guy was honest and although it took him forever to get my done with my car, I like to think I made out well here, but I'll let the more qualified readers of this thread determine this (please reply, would love to know what you think)
His next prime suspect to chase down was the sprockets. Son of a b**ch...wouldn't you know it...one of them was bad!!!! I reminded him what I told him on day ONE....to that he responds by telling me that the only way you can tell when the sprocket is bad is when you have a good one or a new one to compare it with.
While the other sprocket looked OK, I told him to replace that one too - I didn't want any further problems. He replaced them both, added oil, started the car and HALELUIH....the problem was solved.
After giving him hell for keeping my car so long...he ended up charging me $5,205.00. I'll pay that over the $10,000 for a new engine in a 5 year old car. After computing trade in values in such, I concluded that this was a worthwhile endeavor based on the cost.
I tried to recall all the details as best I could...I hope this helps someone in a similar situation someday.
I do have a few questions in my mind though...curious to what you guys think...
Was the chain really stretched and did it really jump a tooth?
Did the actuator thing really need to be replaced (pretty sure that was a pricey part)?
Was there really an issue with an oil gasket (I actually think there was and that, that was why my oil level was sooo low)?
Last but not least...
Did all the guy have to do is simply check the sprockets like I asked him to and replace them?
So did I get ripped off, or hooked up?
The guy that I ended up using lives and breaths engines. Took 10 weeks for him to get it fixed, but in the end - I'm happy with outcome.
He said my engine looked great inside, no sludge, no blue tints in the metal etc. He replaced the timing chain and tensionor (said it jumped a tooth), put oil in, started the care....but the issue persisted...and so the saga began...
Let me start with this disclaimer: Other then what I learned throughout this experience, I don't know much about engine parts and such...but I do ask a lot of questions...been a while too, but I will do my best to recall the technical detail here...
He dug in further, and identified a bad gasket around an "actuator" thing that is responsible for retarding the CAMS at high RPM's...apparently this actuator thing relies on oil pressure to do the retarding...so he fixed that and tested...actuator thing still would not retard cams...he then replaced the actuator thing....
Certain to have solved the problem, he finished with the replacement, added oil again and started the engine....and NOPE. Problem persisted. This had him perplexed so he had Infiniti look at the engine as well...that was no help as they too were left clueless and just recommended engine replacement.
Where most other mechanics give up, this guy just got more determined to figure this out...so I agreed to let him keep at it.
Now....let me just stop here to say that I am no mechanic. I know this...but I do recall reading on some forum thread somewhere that a guy with similar issues ultimately narrowed it down to CAM sprockets. Naturally, I relayed this information the day I dropped the car off with this guy - "Hey check the CAM sprockets" without even understanding or knowing what the hell a CAM sprocket was beyond a quick google search.
I actually do believe this guy was honest and although it took him forever to get my done with my car, I like to think I made out well here, but I'll let the more qualified readers of this thread determine this (please reply, would love to know what you think)
His next prime suspect to chase down was the sprockets. Son of a b**ch...wouldn't you know it...one of them was bad!!!! I reminded him what I told him on day ONE....to that he responds by telling me that the only way you can tell when the sprocket is bad is when you have a good one or a new one to compare it with.
While the other sprocket looked OK, I told him to replace that one too - I didn't want any further problems. He replaced them both, added oil, started the car and HALELUIH....the problem was solved.
After giving him hell for keeping my car so long...he ended up charging me $5,205.00. I'll pay that over the $10,000 for a new engine in a 5 year old car. After computing trade in values in such, I concluded that this was a worthwhile endeavor based on the cost.
I tried to recall all the details as best I could...I hope this helps someone in a similar situation someday.
I do have a few questions in my mind though...curious to what you guys think...
Was the chain really stretched and did it really jump a tooth?
Did the actuator thing really need to be replaced (pretty sure that was a pricey part)?
Was there really an issue with an oil gasket (I actually think there was and that, that was why my oil level was sooo low)?
Last but not least...
Did all the guy have to do is simply check the sprockets like I asked him to and replace them?
So did I get ripped off, or hooked up?
Last edited by sal81; 10-22-2014 at 09:49 PM.
10-23-2014, 11:55 AM
#42
since I run synthetic I try and stretch out to 6k miles inbetween oil changes, even at that time my oil tends to be rather watery as in a lot of the viscosity has broken down...def keep an eye on it and try to change it before it gets black/burnt
10-23-2014, 01:23 PM
#43
Fords have variable valve lift & adjustment achieved via a cam phaser. I think this is what you refer to as the sprocket. These are are known to be noisy when oil level is low, its a steady low tick or thud sound heard at idle. The cam phaser is locked in place at idle by a locking pin. Once you rev the engine, the variable valve timing adjusts the cam phaser via a solenoid that sprays a high pressure stream of ENGINE OIL against that locking pin, releasing it, and the timing is then advanced. I suspect the Infiniti VVEL works in much the same way.
So to answer your question, based on what I understand (which is often not much) and what you described, the "actuator thing", if it is indeed the solenoid that uses high pressure oil to advance and retard timing, then yes, it needed replaced considering your low oil level. Its like a fuel pump that burns out after running without fuel for a long time. This electric solenoid (actuator) requires oil for cooling and lubrication. And your oil was too low for too long. Gasket replacement is a given.
Thanks for updating the thread with the outcome, and this weekend, change your oil!
So to answer your question, based on what I understand (which is often not much) and what you described, the "actuator thing", if it is indeed the solenoid that uses high pressure oil to advance and retard timing, then yes, it needed replaced considering your low oil level. Its like a fuel pump that burns out after running without fuel for a long time. This electric solenoid (actuator) requires oil for cooling and lubrication. And your oil was too low for too long. Gasket replacement is a given.
Thanks for updating the thread with the outcome, and this weekend, change your oil!
10-23-2014, 05:14 PM
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Fords have variable valve lift & adjustment achieved via a cam phaser. I think this is what you refer to as the sprocket. These are are known to be noisy when oil level is low, its a steady low tick or thud sound heard at idle. The cam phaser is locked in place at idle by a locking pin. Once you rev the engine, the variable valve timing adjusts the cam phaser via a solenoid that sprays a high pressure stream of ENGINE OIL against that locking pin, releasing it, and the timing is then advanced. I suspect the Infiniti VVEL works in much the same way.
So to answer your question, based on what I understand (which is often not much) and what you described, the "actuator thing", if it is indeed the solenoid that uses high pressure oil to advance and retard timing, then yes, it needed replaced considering your low oil level. Its like a fuel pump that burns out after running without fuel for a long time. This electric solenoid (actuator) requires oil for cooling and lubrication. And your oil was too low for too long. Gasket replacement is a given.
Thanks for updating the thread with the outcome, and this weekend, change your oil!
So to answer your question, based on what I understand (which is often not much) and what you described, the "actuator thing", if it is indeed the solenoid that uses high pressure oil to advance and retard timing, then yes, it needed replaced considering your low oil level. Its like a fuel pump that burns out after running without fuel for a long time. This electric solenoid (actuator) requires oil for cooling and lubrication. And your oil was too low for too long. Gasket replacement is a given.
Thanks for updating the thread with the outcome, and this weekend, change your oil!
After that the sprockets were replaced...which I understand those to be the things that the cam sensors read.
Thanks for the reply...I learned my lesson. The car throws a check engine light for anything under the sun except really low oil, go figure.
Mike
07-11-2017, 11:29 PM
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'09 G37 Journey sedan won't start!!! Please help!!!
So I was driving on the highway when all of a sudden my car stalled. After numerous attempts of trying to restart it just would not turn over, only sputtering a few times. Immediately I'm thinking fuel pump. No clanking, no smoke, no loss of performance throughout the other 300 miles I had already driven to that point. I checked my oil and it wasn't marking. I had a friend meet with some oil thinking there was some kind of safety mechanism on the vehicle to keep the engine from getting damaged. Added almost 3 full quarts of oil, attempted to start it again. Same result. Got the car towed 45 miles home to the tune of $213.
Woke up the next day, read some forums and came up with many different scenarios. Checked the battery 1st, fully charged. Checked the fuel pump fuse, completely fine. Pulled out the back seat and headed for the fuel pump. Turned the push button start to the on position and heard the fuel pump making the priming noise fine as well. Next I went to AutoZone and borrowed the fuel pressure guage tool and hooked that up to it. Attempted to turn over the vehicle again, no marking showing any pressure getting through on the guage. So my question is, can the fuel pump still be my problem even though it seems it is priming correctly?
Let me take you back even further than that...
I bought the car back in March of this year. After a couple of weeks I started to notice a small puff of smoke from the exhaust upon start up and took it to Infiniti immediately. After their diagnosis, they determined the car had a sludged engine and needed to be replaced. Tried to hit me for 6700 for a used engine or 11000 for a new one. I told them i had no performance issues, no irregularities, no knocking, no nothing. Then they go on to tell me that another person brought the same car to that same dealership a year before and they told them the same thing. They couldn't believe it was still going. I decided to go with a couple of mechanic buddies of mine and add a cleanser. This I did twice after about 1000 miles and the car has been fine. I figured my problems were solved. Not the case anymore. DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT I CAN DO AT THIS POINT????? I'M at a huge loss right now.
Woke up the next day, read some forums and came up with many different scenarios. Checked the battery 1st, fully charged. Checked the fuel pump fuse, completely fine. Pulled out the back seat and headed for the fuel pump. Turned the push button start to the on position and heard the fuel pump making the priming noise fine as well. Next I went to AutoZone and borrowed the fuel pressure guage tool and hooked that up to it. Attempted to turn over the vehicle again, no marking showing any pressure getting through on the guage. So my question is, can the fuel pump still be my problem even though it seems it is priming correctly?
Let me take you back even further than that...
I bought the car back in March of this year. After a couple of weeks I started to notice a small puff of smoke from the exhaust upon start up and took it to Infiniti immediately. After their diagnosis, they determined the car had a sludged engine and needed to be replaced. Tried to hit me for 6700 for a used engine or 11000 for a new one. I told them i had no performance issues, no irregularities, no knocking, no nothing. Then they go on to tell me that another person brought the same car to that same dealership a year before and they told them the same thing. They couldn't believe it was still going. I decided to go with a couple of mechanic buddies of mine and add a cleanser. This I did twice after about 1000 miles and the car has been fine. I figured my problems were solved. Not the case anymore. DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT I CAN DO AT THIS POINT????? I'M at a huge loss right now.