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3 Months and Falken FK452's are shot!
Yup, in less than 3 months i went through both rear Falkens I was running. I would say I put 3,000-3,500 miles on them, and that's thanks to my alignment. I procrastinated it and ignored it until today when I saw the inside of my tires worn to where the threads are coming out. I was in shock.
My question is: I'm not going with the Falken's again cause they are the biggest piece of sh*t tires i've ever ridden on. Now I'm running stretched setup and wanted to see if I should run Hankook's and if they are any better than the Falkens? What other "affordable" tire options are there in 255/30/20? |
Yokohama S drives. Please fix your rear camber and toe before you waste more money on tires.
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Thats why I switched to Hankooks, the best tire to stretch, flakens suck and i just got rid of all of them, dont believe me call autoglitz, they had to cut the falkens off my rims
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if ur runnin mad camber ur tires are guna be shot no matter the brand
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Originally Posted by heff
(Post 2799865)
if ur runnin mad camber ur tires are guna be shot no matter the brand
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I had the same issues with the Falken's, and I would go with the Hankook's if I had it to do over. I was not impressed with the 452's beyond the wear issues. My Falken's lasted about 4500 miles. I actually did get an alignment the day before I put them on, but something changed after the alignment. Cobb (who did my alignment) attributed it to the different wheels/tires. I had my stock wheels/tires on when I got the alignment, and installed the Volk's with the Falken's the next day. I am not so sure about what changed, but it was really the toe that chewed through the tires. My toe was at .2-.25 when I checked the alignment again. Camber was around -1.6. Needless to say, the Falken's are not very forgiving. I have run more negative camber, and had worse toe settings, and not gone through tires like that.... This was around my tenth set of "high performance" tires, and I would put them near the bottom. I am back to running BFG KDW2's now, but I am going to try the Hankook Ventus V12 Evo's next time
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Originally Posted by heff
(Post 2799865)
if ur runnin mad camber ur tires are guna be shot no matter the brand
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i had no issues with my FK 452s at all except the grip suck like no other
im not running as stretched as u guys are but minor stretch and i have negative 3 camber in the rear with no toe which lasted me over 18k with flipping them twice. and i dont drive like a grandma, i take my turns pretty hard and i drive my car pretty hard. as to tire tread life wise i would say its decent, ive heard numerous things like them exploding but so far mines are great and i just recently swapped them after 18k. u guys better check ur toe, negative camber is not the only thign u should fix. ive learned the toe problem from my last car and that kills the tire more than the negative camber! hope this helps! |
I have had over 15k miles on my Invos, they still look legit. lol -3.9 rear.
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So your alignment is shot, and you're blaming the tires? Really?
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I'm sure to be in the minority here, but i've had my Falken's for 20k+ miles now. It has also seen two HPDE days, the first of which was in 100+ degree weather. It performs nothing short of admirable for what they cost. I will be replacing it soon, likely with the same.
Interestingly, there's more pro's posted on the 452's from the sedan guys. |
Originally Posted by pfizzle
(Post 2799974)
I have had over 15k miles on my Invos, they still look legit. lol -3.9 rear.
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If you are looking at the top of your tires (down from the top/above your car):
/ \ = toe in (positive number) \ / = toe out (negative number) RWD cars will typically maintain some toe in; especially in the rear. Excessive toe in will "scrub" the tires, leading to excessive wear. I can't think of a real easy way to explain the affect other than to think about the fact your car is moving in a strait line, and the tires are essentially at a slight angle in which has a scrubbing affect on the tires (the tire is moving slightly sideways as the vehicle is moving in a strait line). Camber will cause uneven wear (side-to-side) on tires, but excessive toe will cause premature/excessive wear on the entire tire. The stock range for the front is 0 to 0.08 degrees, and the rear is 0 to 0.22. Excessive toe will reduce oversteer, and aid turn-in and high-speed cornering. It will decrease wet weather handling, and increase tire wear. For minimal wear you want to keep the front as close to 0 as possible, and the rear below 0.1 or lower. Some tires are more forgiving than others. As I mentioned above, I was running -1.5 degrees of camber, and (unknowingly) about 0.25 to 0.3 degrees of toe in, and it destroyed my Falken FK-452's in about 4000 miles. I have intentionally run -2 degrees of camber, and 0.25 degrees of toe-in, and had tires last in the 10k mile range. Numbers like this are not uncommon on a more performance oriented setup. Race cars run more camber, and more toe in most cases.... |
Thanks for the response.
These are my numbers after my drop: Front Camber -1.5 -1.5 Caster 4.9 5.0 Toe 0.06 0.05 Rear Camber -2.2 -2.1 Toe 0.11 0.09 I think I'll be alright... |
Originally Posted by BocaIvan
(Post 2800413)
Thanks for the response.
These are my numbers after my drop: Front Camber -1.5 -1.5 Caster 4.9 5.0 Toe 0.06 0.05 Rear Camber -2.2 -2.1 Toe 0.11 0.09 I think I'll be alright... |
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