Suspension track specs?
08-17-2017, 02:58 PM
#5
Originally Posted by slartibartfast
Nominally, zero toe up front. A smidge in the back. Will make for a car that doesn't have a good sense of straight ahead on the street, though.
Two degrees negative camber is a good place to start. Monitor tire wear and temperatures.
Two degrees negative camber is a good place to start. Monitor tire wear and temperatures.
08-17-2017, 05:15 PM
#6
Registered Member
Yeah, there's a lot of variables that will affect how you align your car for the track. Ultimately, it comes down to what the others said above - even tire temperature and wear across whatever tire you're running (some tires like more camber, others less).
Buy a temperature probe and bring it with you the next time you're out. Check the tires at multiple points across the width of the tire immediately after a run- if it's hotter on the outside, you need more camber, and vice versa.
Having a properly aligned car for the track will affect the life of the tire on the street though - so unless you're only using the car at the track, it's probably best to have it somewhere in between.
Buy a temperature probe and bring it with you the next time you're out. Check the tires at multiple points across the width of the tire immediately after a run- if it's hotter on the outside, you need more camber, and vice versa.
Having a properly aligned car for the track will affect the life of the tire on the street though - so unless you're only using the car at the track, it's probably best to have it somewhere in between.
08-18-2017, 09:53 AM
#7
Depends how crazy you want to go, how much track time you'll get, car mods and also how fast you are as a driver. I can't say this is where you should aim, but for me at autocross and track (TWS, COTA)
I run:
- 3/64" toe-out each wheel up front
- 1/32" toe-in each wheel up back (I've heard of lots of folks that run 0, and I tried it, but that was so tail happy I went slow and got frustrated)
- 3.4 degrees negative camber in the front
- 7ish degrees caster up front (SPL control arms maxed out)
- 1.8 degrees negative camber in the back
Depends on suspension and sway bars too. These settings work for me with kW v3's and Hotchkis front bar and running on 200TW and 100TW r-comps
I got to these settings chasing even temps and wear on the track, and because all roads in houston are flat and straight, I get good wear on the street also.
I run:
- 3/64" toe-out each wheel up front
- 1/32" toe-in each wheel up back (I've heard of lots of folks that run 0, and I tried it, but that was so tail happy I went slow and got frustrated)
- 3.4 degrees negative camber in the front
- 7ish degrees caster up front (SPL control arms maxed out)
- 1.8 degrees negative camber in the back
Depends on suspension and sway bars too. These settings work for me with kW v3's and Hotchkis front bar and running on 200TW and 100TW r-comps
I got to these settings chasing even temps and wear on the track, and because all roads in houston are flat and straight, I get good wear on the street also.
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08-18-2017, 01:31 PM
#8
Originally Posted by Splitter
Depends how crazy you want to go, how much track time you'll get, car mods and also how fast you are as a driver. I can't say this is where you should aim, but for me at autocross and track (TWS, COTA)
I run:
- 3/64" toe-out each wheel up front
- 1/32" toe-in each wheel up back (I've heard of lots of folks that run 0, and I tried it, but that was so tail happy I went slow and got frustrated)
- 3.4 degrees negative camber in the front
- 7ish degrees caster up front (SPL control arms maxed out)
- 1.8 degrees negative camber in the back
Depends on suspension and sway bars too. These settings work for me with kW v3's and Hotchkis front bar and running on 200TW and 100TW r-comps
I got to these settings chasing even temps and wear on the track, and because all roads in houston are flat and straight, I get good wear on the street also.
I run:
- 3/64" toe-out each wheel up front
- 1/32" toe-in each wheel up back (I've heard of lots of folks that run 0, and I tried it, but that was so tail happy I went slow and got frustrated)
- 3.4 degrees negative camber in the front
- 7ish degrees caster up front (SPL control arms maxed out)
- 1.8 degrees negative camber in the back
Depends on suspension and sway bars too. These settings work for me with kW v3's and Hotchkis front bar and running on 200TW and 100TW r-comps
I got to these settings chasing even temps and wear on the track, and because all roads in houston are flat and straight, I get good wear on the street also.