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The G37S is a great track car

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Old 05-24-2018, 12:45 AM
  #571  
4DRZ
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Originally Posted by 6spd_Hayes


‘12 G37S Sedan. Only mods were Z1 SS Clutch line, premium SS brake lines, 34 row oil cooler, Motul RBF600, 18x10+38 Enkei NT03RRs with Bridgestone RE71s, Carbotech XP12/10, 2 piece Z1 Rotors in front. No other mods. I am very familiar with this track. This was my third event here (but first with the G37). I certainly wasn’t braking too much/soon. I would brake as much and as late as I could, just after coming off the gas. Brake last, finish first they say. You are right, the M3 driver probably wasn’t driving it 10/10ths like I was. I’ll have pictures and video soon. My best of the day was a 1:40.67. I’ll be mimicking your brake ducting setup over the next month. I’ve got a custom 1346/1347 set of 6AL-4V Titanium shims (1.0mm Front, 0.8mm Rear) being cut right now that may help some. I’ve already registered for my next track day at Barber Motorsport Park (June 10th).
That track looks like a lot of fun. I like your tires too. Are you running 275's all the way around? If so, how does it steer on the street?

Now I see what you mean about the M3- he pulls on you hard on the two sections that look even remotely straight, but clearly he is not as familiar as you with the track- similar to my surprising discovery on track the 1st time with my G37 where I was catching lots of fast cars (1st posts). Short tracks with lots of turns don't work well for high hp.

I wonder what caused your fluid to boil. Are you trail braking much to overcome the understeer? Was it fresh fluid? I'm stumped as I have yet to boil RBF600 and I have used it in many different cars over the last 15+ years. Then again, maybe a set of brake ducts will save you. The brakes are clearly getting hot if the bleed screws are leaking that much fluid.

Keep an eye on those drilled rotors. The holes weaken the rotor quite a bit and that is where you usually start to see cracks forming.

Originally Posted by FlashGuy
Here is a recent day with the local BMW club.


https://youtu.be/N-vvsqzmShU
I have not driven at Autobahn for a long time. I forgot how fun the corners are there.

Last edited by 4DRZ; 05-24-2018 at 12:56 AM.
Old 05-24-2018, 12:54 AM
  #572  
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I installed my Z1 2pc. rotors today and they shave just over 8 lbs/corner compared to stock. I'm pretty stoked to try them out at Road America in a week with the new Carbotech XP12/10's. Hoping I notice a difference on track. The car actually felt a little more lively on the street too (has to be the placebo affect).




Old 05-24-2018, 05:28 PM
  #573  
youdunseeme
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hi guys,
I am going to a track day on Sat with my g37s. I chose the beginner group since it's my first track day. I am wondering would my stock akebono brake hold up for the event (5 sessions, 20 min each)? Recently, I had my brake fluid change, and new pad as well. My car is pretty much bone stock, expect for the front strut bar, front underbrace, and a Tanabe muffler (basically bone stock)
Thanks!
Old 05-24-2018, 06:21 PM
  #574  
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Originally Posted by youdunseeme
hi guys,
I am going to a track day on Sat with my g37s. I chose the beginner group since it's my first track day. I am wondering would my stock akebono brake hold up for the event (5 sessions, 20 min each)? Recently, I had my brake fluid change, and new pad as well. My car is pretty much bone stock, expect for the front strut bar, front underbrace, and a Tanabe muffler (basically bone stock)
Thanks!
You should be fine. Just take it easy and learn your car and yourself. Be aware, a standard DOT3/4 fluid will usually have a lower boiling point than a performance brake fluid. Even among the performance brake fluids, this varies. Knowing this you can estimate how hard you can go. The other consideration is the type of pad you're running. Street pads can be used, but their thermal range is much lower than track oriented pads.

Listen to your instructor if you have one, and communicate your thoughts. No need to be a track hero unless you are one. Most importantly, have fun and stay safe.

Post up here if you have the chance.
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Old 05-24-2018, 07:58 PM
  #575  
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Originally Posted by youdunseeme
hi guys,
I am going to a track day on Sat with my g37s. I chose the beginner group since it's my first track day. I am wondering would my stock akebono brake hold up for the event (5 sessions, 20 min each)? Recently, I had my brake fluid change, and new pad as well. My car is pretty much bone stock, expect for the front strut bar, front underbrace, and a Tanabe muffler (basically bone stock)
Thanks!
Have fun! What track are you doing? You will quickly learn the limits of your car (probably oil temps, tires, and brakes). Don't try to be fast right off the bat- that's how things go wrong. Learn the basics 1st and the speed will come gradually as you become comfortable. Grab as many instructors as you can to learn how to drive on track as it will be very different to what you can do on the street. Good instruction is worth far more than any upgrade. Most of all, make sure to have fun, especially since you don't have to worry about speeding tickets on track.
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Old 05-24-2018, 08:20 PM
  #576  
youdunseeme
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Originally Posted by FlashGuy
You should be fine. Just take it easy and learn your car and yourself. Be aware, a standard DOT3/4 fluid will usually have a lower boiling point than a performance brake fluid. Even among the performance brake fluids, this varies. Knowing this you can estimate how hard you can go. The other consideration is the type of pad you're running. Street pads can be used, but their thermal range is much lower than track oriented pads.

Listen to your instructor if you have one, and communicate your thoughts. No need to be a track hero unless you are one. Most importantly, have fun and stay safe.

Post up here if you have the chance.
Thanks man! My package includes a couple instructor sessions. I am thinking should I get the track pad before Sat since the abk brake system is extremely easy to replace the pad
Old 05-24-2018, 08:22 PM
  #577  
youdunseeme
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Originally Posted by 4DRZ
Have fun! What track are you doing? You will quickly learn the limits of your car (probably oil temps, tires, and brakes). Don't try to be fast right off the bat- that's how things go wrong. Learn the basics 1st and the speed will come gradually as you become comfortable. Grab as many instructors as you can to learn how to drive on track as it will be very different to what you can do on the street. Good instruction is worth far more than any upgrade. Most of all, make sure to have fun, especially since you don't have to worry about speeding tickets on track.
Will do! I consider this is a fun lesson more than a serious track day
Old 05-24-2018, 08:47 PM
  #578  
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Originally Posted by youdunseeme
Will do! I consider this is a fun lesson more than a serious track day
All serious track days are fun lessons :P.

I agree with swapping out the pads for a more track oriented one, if you can. It will be nice to have the extra security even if you're not going to be going 10/10ths. Which track are you going to? And with which track organizer?
Old 05-24-2018, 08:58 PM
  #579  
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Originally Posted by bPChaos
All serious track days are fun lessons :P.

I agree with swapping out the pads for a more track oriented one, if you can. It will be nice to have the extra security even if you're not going to be going 10/10ths. Which track are you going to? And with which track organizer?
Bottunwillow race track, and the event is organized by Speedway distract.
If I can get the hawk pad from amazon tmr, I will change it before Sat
Old 05-24-2018, 10:52 PM
  #580  
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What alignment specs are everyone using? I found the 245/40R19 Pilot Sport 4S was rolling over under heavy cornering at the last track day. I was measuring 39.5 PSI hot pressure on the front and 39 PSI on the rears so I don't want to go much higher since max is 45 PSI i believe.

I think I can go more negative camber in the front to solve this. Maybe -2 to -2.5 degrees. Will need to try that for the next track day to find out.



Old 05-24-2018, 10:56 PM
  #581  
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Originally Posted by youdunseeme
Bottunwillow race track, and the event is organized by Speedway distract.
If I can get the hawk pad from amazon tmr, I will change it before Sat

I'm so envious of you Cali folks. You have so many amazing tracks to chose from.


What configuration are you running at Buttonwillow? They have so many.
Old 05-25-2018, 05:20 PM
  #582  
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Originally Posted by FlashGuy
I think I can go more negative camber in the front to solve this. Maybe -2 to -2.5 degrees. Will need to try that for the next track day to find out.
If you've got adjustable suspension you can go pretty wild.

I have
Front:
-3.5 degrees camber
0 toe
7ish degrees caster

Rear:
-1.8 degrees camber
0.1 degrees toe in each side
Old 05-29-2018, 12:38 PM
  #583  
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Originally Posted by FlashGuy
I'm so envious of you Cali folks. You have so many amazing tracks to chose from.


What configuration are you running at Buttonwillow? They have so many.
Most organizations run 13CW, because it's the one that Global Time Attack uses. Which is fun, but pretty lame because all of the other ones are pretty good too and very few groups actually run them.

As for alignment:

Front:
Camber: -1.8
Caster: 5.0
Toe: 0.0

Rear:
Camber: -2.7
Toe: 0.0

I need to buy camber arms for the front.
Old 05-29-2018, 02:55 PM
  #584  
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Originally Posted by FlashGuy
What alignment specs are everyone using? I found the 245/40R19 Pilot Sport 4S was rolling over under heavy cornering at the last track day. I was measuring 39.5 PSI hot pressure on the front and 39 PSI on the rears so I don't want to go much higher since max is 45 PSI i believe.

I think I can go more negative camber in the front to solve this. Maybe -2 to -2.5 degrees. Will need to try that for the next track day to find out.



Are your tires rolling over in front? What track was this and what do you have done to your suspension?
Old 05-29-2018, 04:37 PM
  #585  
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Another thing to probably consider other than PSI - check tire temps across the width of the tire. You'll be able to determine if you need more camber if you're burning up the shoulders of the tires. The rolling over is a bit more obvious but it could be that it's only in certain corners that it's doing that.


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