Splitter

iTrader: (1)

Good to know, thanks! I have been on the fence about it a little, but I can see them being the beginning of a very deep rabbit hole that includes intake and tuning, probably full exhaust, etc... I am now firmly on this side of the fence and will remain there.

ZahyMatar

iTrader: (4)

My first track day ever will be at New Jersey Motorsports Park on March 31st!! Super excited.
2013 G37S Sedan 6MT
Suspension: Stance XR1 true type coils w/ 12/8k Swifts, SPL FUCA, SPL camber arms, SPL toe arms, SPL lockout kit, Cusco strut bar

Wheels: Weds SA-15R 18x9.5 square 265/40/18 Bridgestone Pole Position S04

Intake tubes, high flow filters, Fast Intentions 2.5in catback, AAM HFC, ATI super damper crank pulley

Hopefully the car holds up well!

Calg37USMC

What fluids are you running? Brakes, clutch, and diff?

ZahyMatar

iTrader: (4)

GT-R fluid for the clutch currently, will probably run AMSOIL high temp brake fluid, and Motul in the diff.

I'm not concerned for now because it is my first time and I'll be with an instructor. I'll gauge the rest of my upgrades off of this experience.

Upgrading to Z1 2pc rotors front and rear, Hawk HPS pads, and braided stainless steel lines after this though.

bPChaos

Do the brake pads now.

I don't know what pads you're running now, but if you're on stock pads, you will regret it. It will cut your day short when you burn through them in 4-5 sessions as you get more comfortable braking later and later.

slartibartfast

iTrader: (7)

I got eight sessions from my OE pads (45k miles)and I run in the advanced group. I did have to change them after the second event but ZM can get one event, surely.

ZM, better go ahead and order a new set of pads. If you intend any further track events, I suggest you get better pads. I switched to Hawk 5.0 street/track pads. They squeal a bit but hey, #racecar!

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

Agreed. You have a nice big brake kit (BBK), but you also have a nice big, heavy car. Make sure you at least upgrade your brake fluid and pads. Hawk makes very good pads, but I would skip the HPS. They are too dusty and squeaky on the street and not high enough temp for serious track work with a heavy car. I run DTC60 front and back and they work really well. Our calipers make it very easy to swap out pads for track days. Just make sure to bring some extra fluid and a plastic syringe to add/remove excess fluid in the master cylinder because both sets of pads will almost always be different thicknesses. A short pry bar (12") works wonders for compressing brake caliper pistons to switch back to whatever set of pads is thicker (street/track).

Check the WET boiling point for the amsoil brake fluid. If it is any lower than Motul RBF600, just get the Motul fluid. I have run this fluid for almost 20 years in tons of cars and never had an issue. I would put this fluid in your clutch line as well and get a better insulated clutch line like the one Z1 makes. I was at Road America and was leaving the clutch in just a touch too long while heel and toe downshifting and cooked the factory fluid because the clutch line is very close to the exhaust manifold.

edit: You will want at least Amsoil Dominator brake fluid as it looks to have a slightly higher wet boiling point than Motul RBF600, but a lower dry boiling point. The other synthetic brake fluid that Amsoil makes has a significantly lower boiling point.

I would definitely get an oil cooler as well as these engines run hot and you will probably cook the oil and go into limp mode pretty early on if you are driving fast.

slartibartfast

iTrader: (7)

Yes, what 4DRZ said about brake fluid. Get highest dry boiling fluid you can. Motul600 is one good choice.

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

You probably mean WET boiling point because brake fluid starts absorbing moisture the second you open the bottle.

slartibartfast

iTrader: (7)

The bottle will show both dry and wet boiling points. Dry is 600 degrees for that Motul. Wet will be high 300s.

bPChaos

It's possible. It also depends on the track/track configuration and temperature of that day. But as brake pads are a critical part of the safety systems and they're one of the easiest parts to replace, I'd err on the side of caution for that particular part.

Baadnewsburr

iTrader: (3)

Good luck on the track day! you'll be surprised at the limits you can put your car to, especially with your set up... its nothing like street driving...maybe its because I'm not that fast but track days make me feel like these cars don't need more power just suspension, tires and brake tweaks.

second/third/fourth what the others are saying about pads and brake fluid..you'll have way more fun for much longer with much more aggressive brake pads and fluid that will hold up...

Just to widen the field of already great suggestions, I run EBC NDX Blue pads and daily with them too and love them...I run rb600 but am considering going to 660 this year...

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

This is very true- brakes make a much bigger difference in lap times compared to just adding power. They are also your most important safety feature on track.

slartibartfast

iTrader: (7)

Another successful track. Only ran two of my four sessions but I didn't mind, as an instructor my day was picked up by the organizers.

As usual, the 7AT was a disappointment.

My new Hawk pads were disappointing in my first session but it turns out I hadn't fully bedded them in. Splitter was there, too. He followed my at one point and remarked at all the brake smoke I was emitting. Brakes were much better in the second session. Splitter has some video he'll be putting up in a day or three.

The Z1 collars were pretty much invisible but I detected the car behaving a tad better when using the curbs though the traction control light lit as expected. While they don't make a huge difference for me, just knowing the subframe monkey motions are checked makes me feel good with about their price.

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

Good to know about the collars. They are on my list.