bPChaos

My power steering fluid has yet to spit out - though i know that it's boiling for sure (it's definitely not happy in the reservoir... lol). We have a small cooler from factory, but it could definitely use a larger one.

Bsanalyst, you might be right about the limp mode. May not be the trans overheating, but rather the oil. Not sure.

slartibartfast

iTrader: (7)

Aftermarket power steering heat exchanger. A reservoir cap that fit tighter would also alleviate the problem.

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

Really? I didn't think they would be too bad. Damn, I was planning to do those soon and maybe some 2pc. front rotors. I think I can pull the fog lights from my sedan and route them through the fender liner. I was going to get Stillen/Z1 ducts. I hear you have to remove the hub to mount them behind the rotor though. No really looking forward to that step.

You are lucky. My first track day in this car was my favorite local track that is really technical with 14 corners in 1 mile. The power steering fluid leaked all over. I noticed it from underneath and actually thought the oil cooler was leaking. I got redline fluid to replace it (I think they recommended their trans fluid for the power steering fluid). After the power steering flush later at Road America, (just as many corners, but spread further apart) I did not have nearly the same issues so I think it is helping. A cooler would probably be even better, but no good places to mount it with the oil cooler and its lines running right where it is supposed to mount.

More than likely you are hitting limp mode from the engine oil. That and the rear diff fluid will run hot much earlier than the trans fluid. My trans fluid still looked decent when I flushed it recently and the diff fluid was black.

slartibartfast

iTrader: (7)

My370Z forum has several threads about installing brake ducts. The G can't be anything but worse.

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

Boo! Well, I am sure I will be able to give you the lowdown on these in the next couple of months.

Splitter

iTrader: (1)

I have brake ducts. It was simple enough, little bit of cutting but nothing major. The Stillen kit calls for you to route it around the chassis rails, right where my oil cooler lines go, so I couldn't follow their instructions and had to squeeze it in/around the undertray of the engine. I now have 2 plastic connectors that don't fit, but no big deal.

Will post pics of the routing tonight when I get home.

Lt8Che

iTrader: (6)

Interested on this as well! Been thinking about it for some time now.

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

Thanks! I thought about brake ducting routes when I installed the oil cooler on my car so I tried to leave room, but I cannot remember if I was thinking I would need a shorter container for washer fluid or not. At least I have an alum. skid plate under my car so the brake ducts will at least have a chance of surviving. On all my other cars, they have gotten torn to shreds in the winter.

Splitter

iTrader: (1)

I don't know how we save these for reference, maybe make it a DIY page? Either way, pic attached.

Clean car is mine. Dirty car is a friends, I used his for inspiration and just made it all fit where I could. I could only view his car on the ground 'jacked up' parked on a curb so I don't know what the routing is like under the engine shroud, but I really didn't like how low his hangs, it's about 3" from the ground MAX. His is a track only car, so it's less important, but I wanted to maintain ground clearence. Like I said, 2 of the plastic rivets don't fit - the one by the sway bar, but the shroud is still on tightly. All wheel well trim pieces also fit, without rubbing, but it is all a little tight. After about 6,000 miles I have no rubbing on road or track despite how close it looks with the tyre, that's due to the extra clearance you gain when weight is on the car - pushes the tyre from the sway bar a little.

I only have photos from the passenger side of my car, as the clearance with the washer bottle is the hardest part. The other side of the car is exactly the same tho, just less bends and easier.

I used the stillen kit (non NISMO front fascia) and drilled a second hole in the inlet adapter so that I could run bolts and washers to mount it to the grill. I had about 10" of hose longer than I needed on each side because I did not route a loop around the chassis rails. I tried, but it wouldn't have fit for length anyways due to the inlet ducts being closer to the center of the car than on a 370.

I really wanted to use the fog lights, but I couldn't find a set of fog light plastics for less than $200 per side so I abandoned that idea. I think (know) you wont have space on the passenger side anyways due to the washer bottle.

Getting the hubs off was super simple. 12 or 14mm socket on a breaker bar, using a little 1-2" extension adapter and it was done. Same to put back on. Just turn the wheel fully one way to get the first 2 or 3, then the other to get the remaining bolt. You have to pull the brakes off to do this, so if you are going to do stainless lines, coil overs, rotors, etc. Now is the time to do it and save pulling it all again another time.

A much smaller washer bottle would make this and the oil cooler SO much easier to install!!!!

slartibartfast

iTrader: (7)

Nice! Sure is cramped under there. So, the fog light openings aren't usable for the front of the tubing? Darn.

Splitter

iTrader: (1)

I really doubt it on the passenger side. The wiring loom comes out of the back of the fog light and takes a 90 degree turn to miss the washer bottle. There is about 1/4" of space. You can see it in one of the shots where I show the tubing routing around the plugs on the bottom of the washer bottle.

Like I said, if you had a smaller washer bottle it would be MUCH simpler. I have toyed with the idea of purchasing the stillen washer bottle that comes with their intake kit. I don't think they offer them seperately and I found one second hand but they wanted crazy money. Plus, like I said, fog light plastic trim is EXPENSIVE.

Would look neat, but $500 neat? not to me.

Also, the stillen kit comes with 2" tubing and that is about all that will fit along the route I used. Any thicker and it'd be crushed through a few of the tight spots and likely wouldn't clear the wheel at lock.

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

Awesome! Thanks for posting up about the brake ducts Splitter. I am glad to hear that the hubs were not a big deal. Spencer at Z1 made it sound like a PITA for some reason. Maybe I misunderstood him.

I was planning on pulling the fog lights out and seeing if I could hook the brake ducts up right behind them somehow. Think that would work?

Looks like it is going to be a really tight fit for me with the oil cooler lines on the passenger side. Might have to do some MacGyver-ing

bsanalyst

I'm surprised few have considered putting the G35 coupe forged Rays wheels on the sedan. I know it may not LOOK the best but they're not terribly difficult to source from the used market, are well priced, and very lightweight (I believe the 19"x8.5" rear wheels are 20lbs).

It is currently my top choice, I saw someone on youtube with a G37 sedan who bought 2 sets of rear G35 rays to run a square setup with 255 tire.

RMB5190

iTrader: (2)

If you were 100% interested in just budget track performance - yea, I can see picking up the Rays but there are "prettier" options out there and at the same weight or lighter. Just have to fork out the cash.

Might be just speaking for myself, but I'd rather spend anywhere from 1,200-1,800 on nice rims that are light and look great rather than a set at <800 that I'm not crazy about just because they're cheap and light; but if the track is your sole focus then go for it I guess...Shoot - I'll stop beating around the bush, I think they're ugly.

Splitter

iTrader: (1)

If you look closely in one of my pics with the washer bottle, you'll see there is a bee's **** of room behind the fog light. If you pulled the entire plastic surround out and made a custom inlet duct you may be able to make it fit, but I really really doubt it'll work any other way. Do have a look tho, like I said I gave up before really taking a good measure, but I think your problem will be the bend radius of the hose. Hell, on the front grill it almost touches the PS cooler and oil cooler, so you do need a lot of space.

As for wheels. As above, you could get lots of cheap options that would work, but personally I really wanted to go as wide - and square - as I could fit without rolling guards and that's a 9.5. I am of the opinion that a 19x10+32/+35 could squeeze in, but I couldn't find anyone who had done it with proper rubber - it was all the stance crowd with biig camber and stretch. Also, the Enkei's (cheap) would need a spacer and I didn't want to do that, so I settled for not being the guinea pig and sticking with a 9.5" rim with 275 section tire instead of 10" rim with a 285 section tire.

Speaking of, these showed up today: