G37x Sedan Muffler Delete
08-26-2018, 11:56 PM
#1
G37x Sedan Muffler Delete
Hey, everyone! This is my first post/thread, so please let me know if this is in the wrong place.
Today a friend and I unbolted and removed the mufflers from my 2013 G37x sedan. In case you're wondering, it's super simple to do: you undo one 12 mm bolt on the clamp that holds the muffler inlet pipe to the resonator outlet pipe, slide the clamp back up toward the resonator, pull the muffler inlet pipe out from the resonator outlet pipe, undo another 12 mm bolt on one of the hangars holding the muffler up, then undo two 12 mm bolts (you will need an extended deep socket for this) on the other hangar holding the muffler up. Make sure you are supporting the muffler while removing these bolts, as it will drop on you and you'll end up with dirt and stuff all over you (not gonna say this happened to me, but also not gonna say it didn't...).
It really grew on me over the 2 hours I drove it today. I've decided I love it, and my friends agree. The warm start isn't crazy outside the car, but it is noticeably louder inside the car. Free revving is also noticeably louder, but again nothing crazy because of the 4k rev limiter. Driving with the windows up is chill; there is a little low hum that wasn't there before, but that's it. Driving with the windows down, though, sounds awesome. It isn't crazy loud, but it sounds mean and really just perfect, I think. Honestly I was unsure about it at first; I think it was just so jarring because I've driven the car stock for 4 years and this just felt so different. Flooring it or downshifting it is amazing.
My only complaint is there is a weird hiss sound if you shift from 1st into 2nd at redline at WOT. I'm really not sure what this is (one of my friends thinks it's the transmission; I guess it's just a sound that the mufflers used to, well, muffle). I have seen other people on the forums mention it, though.
Anyway, I'm a little concerned now with driving it the way it is now for too long because I don't wanna blow hot exhaust gases all over the underside of the car. I'll probably put the mufflers back on ASAP and take it to my local muffler shop for the "official" muffler delete modification. So, I have a question about what I do next: should I just bring my shop the tips I want (honestly might just buy OEM tips since I know they fit flush) and tell them to weld the tips onto 2.25" stainless steel piping that will fit into the resonator outlet pipe? I don't want them to weld anything onto the resonator outlet because I want to be able to bolt-on-bolt-off easily if I want in the future. I've heard of some people having a flange welded onto the new pipe, but I don't see why this would be necessary. I still have the clamps that were on there before; should I just give them to the shop, too, and tell them to use those? They don't need to be welded onto anything. As long as the new pipe fits into the resonator outlet just like the old muffler inlet pipe did, the clamp can just be slid onto the connection and bolted on as it was before, right? I might even just bring one of the old mufflers with me so they know exactly how long the new pipe should be to make the tips as flush as they were before.
Today a friend and I unbolted and removed the mufflers from my 2013 G37x sedan. In case you're wondering, it's super simple to do: you undo one 12 mm bolt on the clamp that holds the muffler inlet pipe to the resonator outlet pipe, slide the clamp back up toward the resonator, pull the muffler inlet pipe out from the resonator outlet pipe, undo another 12 mm bolt on one of the hangars holding the muffler up, then undo two 12 mm bolts (you will need an extended deep socket for this) on the other hangar holding the muffler up. Make sure you are supporting the muffler while removing these bolts, as it will drop on you and you'll end up with dirt and stuff all over you (not gonna say this happened to me, but also not gonna say it didn't...).
It really grew on me over the 2 hours I drove it today. I've decided I love it, and my friends agree. The warm start isn't crazy outside the car, but it is noticeably louder inside the car. Free revving is also noticeably louder, but again nothing crazy because of the 4k rev limiter. Driving with the windows up is chill; there is a little low hum that wasn't there before, but that's it. Driving with the windows down, though, sounds awesome. It isn't crazy loud, but it sounds mean and really just perfect, I think. Honestly I was unsure about it at first; I think it was just so jarring because I've driven the car stock for 4 years and this just felt so different. Flooring it or downshifting it is amazing.
My only complaint is there is a weird hiss sound if you shift from 1st into 2nd at redline at WOT. I'm really not sure what this is (one of my friends thinks it's the transmission; I guess it's just a sound that the mufflers used to, well, muffle). I have seen other people on the forums mention it, though.
Anyway, I'm a little concerned now with driving it the way it is now for too long because I don't wanna blow hot exhaust gases all over the underside of the car. I'll probably put the mufflers back on ASAP and take it to my local muffler shop for the "official" muffler delete modification. So, I have a question about what I do next: should I just bring my shop the tips I want (honestly might just buy OEM tips since I know they fit flush) and tell them to weld the tips onto 2.25" stainless steel piping that will fit into the resonator outlet pipe? I don't want them to weld anything onto the resonator outlet because I want to be able to bolt-on-bolt-off easily if I want in the future. I've heard of some people having a flange welded onto the new pipe, but I don't see why this would be necessary. I still have the clamps that were on there before; should I just give them to the shop, too, and tell them to use those? They don't need to be welded onto anything. As long as the new pipe fits into the resonator outlet just like the old muffler inlet pipe did, the clamp can just be slid onto the connection and bolted on as it was before, right? I might even just bring one of the old mufflers with me so they know exactly how long the new pipe should be to make the tips as flush as they were before.
08-29-2018, 01:53 PM
#2
I purchased the Top-Speed Muffler Delete kit and it sounds amazing. It's about $300 and looks really great. If you're looking for sizing, I would look to that product and get the dimensions from Top-Speed.
The following users liked this post:
kushlorddank (08-31-2018)
08-29-2018, 02:51 PM
#3
Hey, everyone! This is my first post/thread, so please let me know if this is in the wrong place.
Today a friend and I unbolted and removed the mufflers from my 2013 G37x sedan. In case you're wondering, it's super simple to do: you undo one 12 mm bolt on the clamp that holds the muffler inlet pipe to the resonator outlet pipe, slide the clamp back up toward the resonator, pull the muffler inlet pipe out from the resonator outlet pipe, undo another 12 mm bolt on one of the hangars holding the muffler up, then undo two 12 mm bolts (you will need an extended deep socket for this) on the other hangar holding the muffler up. Make sure you are supporting the muffler while removing these bolts, as it will drop on you and you'll end up with dirt and stuff all over you (not gonna say this happened to me, but also not gonna say it didn't...).
It really grew on me over the 2 hours I drove it today. I've decided I love it, and my friends agree. The warm start isn't crazy outside the car, but it is noticeably louder inside the car. Free revving is also noticeably louder, but again nothing crazy because of the 4k rev limiter. Driving with the windows up is chill; there is a little low hum that wasn't there before, but that's it. Driving with the windows down, though, sounds awesome. It isn't crazy loud, but it sounds mean and really just perfect, I think. Honestly I was unsure about it at first; I think it was just so jarring because I've driven the car stock for 4 years and this just felt so different. Flooring it or downshifting it is amazing.
My only complaint is there is a weird hiss sound if you shift from 1st into 2nd at redline at WOT. I'm really not sure what this is (one of my friends thinks it's the transmission; I guess it's just a sound that the mufflers used to, well, muffle). I have seen other people on the forums mention it, though.
Anyway, I'm a little concerned now with driving it the way it is now for too long because I don't wanna blow hot exhaust gases all over the underside of the car. I'll probably put the mufflers back on ASAP and take it to my local muffler shop for the "official" muffler delete modification. So, I have a question about what I do next: should I just bring my shop the tips I want (honestly might just buy OEM tips since I know they fit flush) and tell them to weld the tips onto 2.25" stainless steel piping that will fit into the resonator outlet pipe? I don't want them to weld anything onto the resonator outlet because I want to be able to bolt-on-bolt-off easily if I want in the future. I've heard of some people having a flange welded onto the new pipe, but I don't see why this would be necessary. I still have the clamps that were on there before; should I just give them to the shop, too, and tell them to use those? They don't need to be welded onto anything. As long as the new pipe fits into the resonator outlet just like the old muffler inlet pipe did, the clamp can just be slid onto the connection and bolted on as it was before, right? I might even just bring one of the old mufflers with me so they know exactly how long the new pipe should be to make the tips as flush as they were before.
Today a friend and I unbolted and removed the mufflers from my 2013 G37x sedan. In case you're wondering, it's super simple to do: you undo one 12 mm bolt on the clamp that holds the muffler inlet pipe to the resonator outlet pipe, slide the clamp back up toward the resonator, pull the muffler inlet pipe out from the resonator outlet pipe, undo another 12 mm bolt on one of the hangars holding the muffler up, then undo two 12 mm bolts (you will need an extended deep socket for this) on the other hangar holding the muffler up. Make sure you are supporting the muffler while removing these bolts, as it will drop on you and you'll end up with dirt and stuff all over you (not gonna say this happened to me, but also not gonna say it didn't...).
It really grew on me over the 2 hours I drove it today. I've decided I love it, and my friends agree. The warm start isn't crazy outside the car, but it is noticeably louder inside the car. Free revving is also noticeably louder, but again nothing crazy because of the 4k rev limiter. Driving with the windows up is chill; there is a little low hum that wasn't there before, but that's it. Driving with the windows down, though, sounds awesome. It isn't crazy loud, but it sounds mean and really just perfect, I think. Honestly I was unsure about it at first; I think it was just so jarring because I've driven the car stock for 4 years and this just felt so different. Flooring it or downshifting it is amazing.
My only complaint is there is a weird hiss sound if you shift from 1st into 2nd at redline at WOT. I'm really not sure what this is (one of my friends thinks it's the transmission; I guess it's just a sound that the mufflers used to, well, muffle). I have seen other people on the forums mention it, though.
Anyway, I'm a little concerned now with driving it the way it is now for too long because I don't wanna blow hot exhaust gases all over the underside of the car. I'll probably put the mufflers back on ASAP and take it to my local muffler shop for the "official" muffler delete modification. So, I have a question about what I do next: should I just bring my shop the tips I want (honestly might just buy OEM tips since I know they fit flush) and tell them to weld the tips onto 2.25" stainless steel piping that will fit into the resonator outlet pipe? I don't want them to weld anything onto the resonator outlet because I want to be able to bolt-on-bolt-off easily if I want in the future. I've heard of some people having a flange welded onto the new pipe, but I don't see why this would be necessary. I still have the clamps that were on there before; should I just give them to the shop, too, and tell them to use those? They don't need to be welded onto anything. As long as the new pipe fits into the resonator outlet just like the old muffler inlet pipe did, the clamp can just be slid onto the connection and bolted on as it was before, right? I might even just bring one of the old mufflers with me so they know exactly how long the new pipe should be to make the tips as flush as they were before.
When I brought it to the exhaust shop I was told that if I wanted a flange attachment, so that I could bolt on/off as I please, it would be an additional $150 or so, which was almost half of the total cost, so I declined. I think he quoted me $200 to just fabricate piping from where I disconnected the muffler and attach my tips. I decided to skip the flange and cut the piping immediately after the exit of the OEM resonators and replace with 2.5" pipe all the way to the exhaust tips. At the time, I was expecting the tone to be similar to that of a muffler delete, albeit a little louder. Man was I wrong. The increase in pipe diameter after the resonator really ruined the sound. Yea, it got louder, but the amount of drone that came along with it was atrocious and laughable. Like an old car with a broken muffler.. If I were you, I would use the same size piping as the mid pipe where you disconnected the muffler. Whether you decide to connect it with the original clamps or flanges is up to you and what materials the exhaust shop has, but I would not recommend going up in pipe size.
The following users liked this post:
kushlorddank (08-31-2018)
08-30-2018, 08:08 AM
#4
The hiss is the VVEL action that's resonating in the pipe. Nothing to be concerned about. That's why our cars (and the Z) have the unique and recognizable tune that they do. As for pipe size, the stock piping is 1.8'' after the Y-back. The sudden difference is probably why knot had the drone that he did.
I ran with the muffler delete for a little bit and while it isn't bad for you or a passenger (thank you OEM Y pipe) anybody in the back seat is going to have a headache due to the drone being right under them. Also, the stock Y pipe is 2'' which is just as big, if not bigger than some after market systems.
The price shops are charging is kind of ridiculous for a muffler delete IMO. I got quoted around the same as others here ($200) and figured the best bang for your buck is to just go with a Beluga, TopSpeed system; or save up and grab a cat-back from one of the other suppliers.
I ran with the muffler delete for a little bit and while it isn't bad for you or a passenger (thank you OEM Y pipe) anybody in the back seat is going to have a headache due to the drone being right under them. Also, the stock Y pipe is 2'' which is just as big, if not bigger than some after market systems.
The price shops are charging is kind of ridiculous for a muffler delete IMO. I got quoted around the same as others here ($200) and figured the best bang for your buck is to just go with a Beluga, TopSpeed system; or save up and grab a cat-back from one of the other suppliers.
08-31-2018, 01:54 AM
#5
Oh, awesome! Thanks for the response about the hiss -- very good to know! Also that is interesting about the pipe diameters. I always thought it was 2.25" but this was quite helpful.
08-31-2018, 07:30 AM
#6
It might be at the flange. When I was looking into it, there was a discrepancy regarding the flange size because aftermarket Y-pipes (for Sedan, AWD) were all 3'' and the flange for the Y-back system were 2-2.5 so matching the two was a challenge.
09-08-2018, 05:19 PM
#7
Here's an update for you guys:
I still haven't finished the tail pipe job yet, but everything underneath the car still looks good (clean and no evidence of burning/melting anything!). I'm very used to the exhaust now after 2 weeks (in fact it really seems pretty mellow to me now -- much different from how I felt about it at first when I thought it might be too loud!).
I measured all of the relevant piping diameters and this is what I found out: the muffler inlet that sticks into the Y-pipe / resonator outlet is 1.75", the muffler outlet is 2.25", and the stock exhaust tips are 3.5"x4".
I brought it to my local muffler shop today to get an estimate for finishing the job. I was told it would be something like $75-110, which sounded very good to me. I had planned on getting 1.75" piping stuck into the resonator outlet with the stock clamps, then upsizing the pipes to 2.25" with a reducer a little before the muffler tips, and go with 2.25" inlet tips like stock (probably 4" round). However, he said it would be "too hard" to upsize from 1.75" to 2.25" and I shouldn't buy any tips with an inlet larger than 2". I have no idea why this would be, though; a simple Google search easily returns 1.75" to 2.25" reducers. He was very busy, though, and I didn't have an appointment, so I just thanked him and left. I'm thinking about buying the 2.25" inlet tips I was looking at anyway as well as the proper reducers.
I still haven't finished the tail pipe job yet, but everything underneath the car still looks good (clean and no evidence of burning/melting anything!). I'm very used to the exhaust now after 2 weeks (in fact it really seems pretty mellow to me now -- much different from how I felt about it at first when I thought it might be too loud!).
I measured all of the relevant piping diameters and this is what I found out: the muffler inlet that sticks into the Y-pipe / resonator outlet is 1.75", the muffler outlet is 2.25", and the stock exhaust tips are 3.5"x4".
I brought it to my local muffler shop today to get an estimate for finishing the job. I was told it would be something like $75-110, which sounded very good to me. I had planned on getting 1.75" piping stuck into the resonator outlet with the stock clamps, then upsizing the pipes to 2.25" with a reducer a little before the muffler tips, and go with 2.25" inlet tips like stock (probably 4" round). However, he said it would be "too hard" to upsize from 1.75" to 2.25" and I shouldn't buy any tips with an inlet larger than 2". I have no idea why this would be, though; a simple Google search easily returns 1.75" to 2.25" reducers. He was very busy, though, and I didn't have an appointment, so I just thanked him and left. I'm thinking about buying the 2.25" inlet tips I was looking at anyway as well as the proper reducers.
Trending Topics
09-15-2018, 01:36 PM
#8
Another update...
I finished the muffler delete with tailpipes and tips today. I must say, I'm really not happy with the final result
The guy wanted to weld the replacement (aluminized, not stainless steel...) piping onto my resonator outlet, so I said fine, if it has an inner diameter of 1.75" it'll slip on, and then it will need to be upsized with a reducer to 2.25" for the tips. He said 2" pipe would slip on; I said okay, fine. Apparently he just used 2.25" piping for the whole damn thing, which shouldn't really be a problem (I know some people go to 2.5" piping and it drones, but I figured 2.25" should be fine) but -- well, it drones.
Honestly, it sounded a lot better with no tailpipes at all. It's definitely louder now, and the idle sounds better, but when you give it gas it's droney and more ricey and I'm pretty disappointed.
Not to mention the tip fitment was garbage. I bought 4" round tips with rolled edges and a slant. They really aren't so big (I think they're a little taller than the stock but not quite as wide). In addition to the fact that I guess ovals would have complimented the cut-out better, the dude had me holding the tips while he welded them in! He expected me to tell from standing right in front of the damn thing while it was on the lift if the tips looked good. Well, they don't really. They stick out way too much.
To top it all off, the price was twice what I originally thought he gave me as a figure. All in all, the muffler delete (with tips) cost me $200. Not bad if I was happy with the result, but honestly I think I should have just spent $300 on the TopSpeed muffler delete system, or spend even more on a catback. I think the stainless steel, the guaranteed fitment, and the different pipe sizes would be worth it (then again, I think all the axlebacks and catbacks, the TopSpeed included, use at least 2.5" piping, so I imagine drone would still be a problem??).
I don't know, my initial impressions of the sound were just that I miss the sweet VQ sound because now what I hear the most is a ricey blare and drone when the revs climb. Maybe I'll upload some pics and sound clips later.
Ah well, until I figure out what to do next...
I finished the muffler delete with tailpipes and tips today. I must say, I'm really not happy with the final result
The guy wanted to weld the replacement (aluminized, not stainless steel...) piping onto my resonator outlet, so I said fine, if it has an inner diameter of 1.75" it'll slip on, and then it will need to be upsized with a reducer to 2.25" for the tips. He said 2" pipe would slip on; I said okay, fine. Apparently he just used 2.25" piping for the whole damn thing, which shouldn't really be a problem (I know some people go to 2.5" piping and it drones, but I figured 2.25" should be fine) but -- well, it drones.
Honestly, it sounded a lot better with no tailpipes at all. It's definitely louder now, and the idle sounds better, but when you give it gas it's droney and more ricey and I'm pretty disappointed.
Not to mention the tip fitment was garbage. I bought 4" round tips with rolled edges and a slant. They really aren't so big (I think they're a little taller than the stock but not quite as wide). In addition to the fact that I guess ovals would have complimented the cut-out better, the dude had me holding the tips while he welded them in! He expected me to tell from standing right in front of the damn thing while it was on the lift if the tips looked good. Well, they don't really. They stick out way too much.
To top it all off, the price was twice what I originally thought he gave me as a figure. All in all, the muffler delete (with tips) cost me $200. Not bad if I was happy with the result, but honestly I think I should have just spent $300 on the TopSpeed muffler delete system, or spend even more on a catback. I think the stainless steel, the guaranteed fitment, and the different pipe sizes would be worth it (then again, I think all the axlebacks and catbacks, the TopSpeed included, use at least 2.5" piping, so I imagine drone would still be a problem??).
I don't know, my initial impressions of the sound were just that I miss the sweet VQ sound because now what I hear the most is a ricey blare and drone when the revs climb. Maybe I'll upload some pics and sound clips later.
Ah well, until I figure out what to do next...
09-17-2018, 08:55 AM
#9
It's not that much of a difference in terms of the outlet moving 2 ft. The drone will always be there with a muffler delete.It's fun for about a week and then gets old and you start to notice the boomy-ness of it. To boot, sounds like the shop you took it to was garbage....Save up and grab a legit cat-back, Y-back or Tanabe mufflers.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BaseSedan7at
Intake and Exhaust
8
04-24-2016 10:56 PM