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Not really, it has been on hold since I got a cheapish 08 silverado at the end of June with only 51k to use just for work, but just had to go about removing the bed and needle scaler work on the frame rust and painted with rust seal. I'm kind of wrapping that up but still had one P0455 leak code I have a fuel pump assembly, vapor canister, and fuel/vapor lines I want to replace on it.
I upgraded my rust removing arsenal with the needle scaler and moved up to using an 85% phosphoric acid that is much stronger for then naval jelly and safer than muriatic. I have many pictures on this but it is not G37 related. I progressed in sections while driving it the rest of the week(s).
I will get back to the car some time, it's so cold right now. I keep the engine oily on the outside to protect the half polished timing cover.
We have some stray cats we pitied and kind of feed that live on the wood pile so not much worry about mice around here.
Last edited by Justin Bailey; 01-27-2021 at 01:40 PM.
Bump, I enjoy this type of restoration. Any updates?
Thanks for your interest. It feels like mostly an embellishment or just an obsession, but not a lot has happened. I've gotten some desiccant bags to put in the interior, and a moroso 4 mil plastic engine bag over the motor right now. I've quickwax and clayed the overspray and fly crap off the body paint, also detailer spray and towel cleaned the door and openings and seals all around, and got a new car cover that doesn't have the nap inside that mice could use for nests.
Reasons for no developments, include(d) more intense occupation attention and energy was and still is needed, as well as shifting this obsession to lawn care, particularly hand shoveling and spreading 200 yards of delivered topsoil to create nicer grounds for grass under trees and around other open areas that has been rewarding as a hobby aside from this car.
The M14 x 1.5 titanium nuts replacing the originals started life as a castle nut, and I lathed off the castle portion, and polished them. I clamped the inner rods in a vise between two pieces of aluminum to not mar the original paint (much), put some brake grease on the thread to prevent rust also. I counted the number of turns to remove the outer rods and tried to put them back on as exactly how they were as I possibly could, satisfied with that, I didn't torque them down yet. I was leery of doing this at all. I think one side was 20-1/2 turns and the other 21-1/2.
Still needs work to polish this aluminum part of the steering gear, I used some hex socket plugs with correct thread (I forget the thread sizes it's been over 2 years ago) to seal all the holes. I have it kind of bolted through one of the mounting bushings to a piece of metal and clamped to a block of wood and the whole thing resting on a board so it sits level and upright and doesn't wobble. I've gone over it to a 320 grit or a maroon scotch bright level at this point.
I have some back and neck pain issues compounded from my job and yard work but I see a chiro dr. if needed, I turned 40 last June, avoided alcoholic beverages for over 2 years, and paid off the car last December so I'm glad for that. It's immune from repossession at least now, not that it was even really possibly repo-able in the disassembled state it's in. Not having payments on it has been a real load off my mind and finances, part of that allowed me to pursue revamping the lawn which needed a lot of improvement which I also really enjoy seeing done and doing right now instead of the car, but it's in a preserved state in the meantime, even if progress is piecemeal.
I have so much to be thankful for that I didn't have the hardships and upsets that a lot of people have had to endure over the last few years.
Last edited by Justin Bailey; 04-25-2022 at 01:23 AM.
Your rack will be alright however it will still need to be aligned. On that note you should also know that no matter what the rear of these cars almost always ends up off and maxxed out. I dont remember if you did any adjustable arms in the rear however you should look into camber arms and SPC toe bolts.
As for the rack boots, I decided to use some thick gap filling Tie Wraps. I've always hated these as the coating never lasts and even painting them might not last as well. Tie Straps work and have been on for 2 years. A better metal option would be the stainless straps.
01-27-2021, 11:51 AM
