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Damn man, I thought you were just going to do the exhaust and was pleasantly surprised when you moved onto the driveline. this is a whole nother level. great work.
BTW, thanks for the advice/info on the front axle, it made the job super easy this past weekend...I was quite concerned after reading other threads on that drive side axle being a nightmare....the key was popping the three little low torque bolts instead of struggling with the 6 inaccessible ones...your pictures helped immensely in guiding me as well...
Damn man, I thought you were just going to do the exhaust and was pleasantly surprised when you moved onto the driveline. this is a whole nother level. great work.
BTW, thanks for the advice/info on the front axle, it made the job super easy this past weekend...I was quite concerned after reading other threads on that drive side axle being a nightmare....the key was popping the three little low torque bolts instead of struggling with the 6 inaccessible ones...your pictures helped immensely in guiding me as well...
Way to go! Glad to have helped you.
Yes, I thought I was just going to address this exhaust rust problem only too at first, but I felt since I already had gone that far it would be the easiest time since I really don't need to drive it, to get anti corrosive protection on neighboring things that were accessible.
I guess I watched too many Barrett-Jackson auctions when they show the underside as they roll off! Haha. Also Foose shows where they go over every square inch with such meticulousness, the SEMA shows, riddler awards and what not.
I don't intend to compete in anything, just drive it again one day. I'm also inspired by naval & marine/ boating engine finishes and how metals can be protected at sea.
I managed to get it two milk crates high, and can spin it if I need to, thought about making mounts for either end and set it on sawhorses in a way that I could rotate it axially, but not sure I really need to.
I estimate the whole thing together to be Idk 200-250 lbs, could weigh it if I can get the bathroom scale under it, hehe.
I was using eagle 1 etching mag cleaner, but now am wire brushing it dry first, then I can use that or the non acid alumibrite brightener. After that, I was going to do rust blast, then alodine, but may skip the rust blast zinc phosphate because it kind of eats the fine plating from fasteners.
I didn't plan it, but I removed this and got it inside just before the snowstorm, and now an happily working in 60 degree garage with it, and can paint it in here, instead of doing whatever outside in the damp cold. Yey.
Last edited by Justin Bailey; 11-18-2018 at 01:50 PM.
This project is going to go cold starting in December though, because I'll be back over the road, all over the country all winter, but will resume next spring if they put me back on the same dedicated runs I had this year May-November.
By July next year the gas in the tank will be a year old, and I had not used any treatment in it, shell 93. IDK if it will really go that bad it's full also, I read that will last longer than a smaller amount will, if there it less air in the tank, idk.
This project is going to go cold starting in December though, because I'll be back over the road, all over the country all winter, but will resume next spring if they put me back on the same dedicated runs I had this year May-November.
By July next year the gas in the tank will be a year old, and I had not used any treatment in it, shell 93. IDK if it will really go that bad it's full also, I read that will last longer than a smaller amount will, if there it less air in the tank, idk.
yes, this is what I used to do for my motorcycles in the winter (Plus stabilizer)...no air = no corrosion, may be a good idea to dump some fuel stabilizer in it even if you cant run it through...but 93 octane top tier gas should be fine
yes, this is what I used to do for my motorcycles in the winter (Plus stabilizer)...no air = no corrosion, may be a good idea to dump some fuel stabilizer in it even if you cant run it through...but 93 octane top tier gas should be fine
Is it logical to say that the vented gas cap is only venting when there is a vacuum or pressure in the tank? That's kind of what I was hoping.
I got the 6 driver side front shaft bolts new. Painted the heads flat silver.
May coat the thread with the vibra tight threadlock, not sure yet. I painted under the head, so might want to q tip a smear of anti seize to just under there so it can glide right there when torquing. Not sure about paint under the head of a bolt, this paint gets ultra hard after a while, but still and could interfere there, idk. I thought a thin even layer there is negligible, yet still could hang up, so if I never seize it just under the head it will perform well.
Paid for 6 and they sent 7 lucky me, I only chewed up one of the old ones, now I have another complete set of used one time in good condition spares + one of those is new.
Last edited by Justin Bailey; 11-18-2018 at 02:00 PM.
Yes I don't know, as you can see, I've also painted the opposite mating surface on here:
So yeah, maybe this paint will just mash out of the way. I always thought it was proper to have metal on metal with fasteners, but am still curious if I painted there what can happen?
By July next year the gas in the tank will be a year old, and I had not used any treatment in it, shell 93.
I (shamefully) have a truck sitting in my driveway that has gasoline that's ten years old. I just look at the thing and think I should sell it since I don't drive it. Every so often, I charge the battery and start the truck. Fuel injection is much more forgiving than carbs in that respect. It's name-brand 87 octane, so there's no ethanol to gum up the works.
I (shamefully) have a truck sitting in my driveway that has gasoline that's ten years old. I just look at the thing and think I should sell it since I don't drive it. Every so often, I charge the battery and start the truck. Fuel injection is much more forgiving than carbs in that respect. It's name-brand 87 octane, so there's no ethanol to gum up the works.
You, being in TX, probably wouldn't get much condensation in the fuel that can freeze, so no pros to having it in gas down south. Here it probably is beneficial to prevent water in fuel from freezing especially in wet during the day and below freezing at night. I don't know if a tank of gas's temperature naturally changing with the environment would form condensation more or less than when or if the tank is warmed by driving the vehicle.
Managed to get the starter off. Did it live without disconnecting the battery, wrapped the 1/4 ratchet handle and socket in plastic.
Scrubbed it with awsome a little here, but then again with aluminum brightener and sprayed rust blast to etch it a little and rinsed. The yellow zinc chromate looks nice oem, but is sacrificial and doesn't really hold it's appearance quality that well.
The updated surface, fit for todays world of salt covered road. Applied some of that pink battery terminal jelly stuff to the contact areas. I like the galvanized flat silver for cast aluminum and used it here, better than the silver which has a metallic glossy look. I actually painted the outside of the nuts and edges of the washers, they are steel and looked like they were rusting.
Here's that threadlock on these. The bottle reads that you can apply to fill the thread 50-100%, it seems I have 50% depth. You just let it dry for at least 1/2 hr before installing.
It has mirror pockets, but they were too far to the front of the cover, so just folded them and left them out. It was only 30 bucks, good enough for me. It has little orange and silver reflective markings so I can see it if I'm backing in the tractor trailer at night. The roof is 16' but it sticks out beyond the posts a litttle.
Been cleaning it up, think I will make the tranfer case silver or galvanized. Made different ATF plugs, but ordered some steel allen head plugs that have an o ring, kind of like the other plugs on the car but M12. Torque converter is in a plastic bag, and used one of the resin kit containers to make a cap. Had to heat and stretch it but is good, I'm using a pump sprayer for water rinsing, filling with hot water.
With the bell and converter off it still rests on the pan by itself, but supported the transfer end for insurance.
Separated the bell to reach this area, but may polish it instead of painting (the bell). Kind of isolatedly prepped it and started painting here. This was 2 coats, will give a 3rd. Looking for some kind of plugs or decorative bolts for the corner holes that do nothing and there are 6 on the transfer end also.
Last edited by Justin Bailey; 11-18-2018 at 02:05 PM.
So there is this plugged stem in the casting that I wonder if it could be used to add a custom temp sensor location and place a guage on the A pillar. I also wonder if it is threaded inside or not. I'D be interested to know if anyone heard of, seen, or used this feature for just that.
11-16-2018, 09:43 AM
