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Group interest in Carbon driveshaft?

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Old 03-25-2012, 09:24 PM
  #31  
37hevn
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Originally Posted by Jsolo
@37hevn, I didn't say there wouldn't be any improvements, but it would be negligible.

Anyone here still in school familiar with physics. I think we need to compute the torque of a cylinder (a driveshaft is after all nothing more than a cylinder of certain radius, length and mass, rotating at a certain angular velocity). I studied this freshman yr in college many years ago but can't recall too much.
when you say negligible do you mean overlooked as in not noticable? a reduction of 16 lbs would be very noticable if youve driven your car for a little while or tracked it.
Old 03-26-2012, 12:21 AM
  #32  
JSolo
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^^I mean negligible compared to a 3800lb car. If the drive shaft was a foot in diameter, then there might be measurable differences. Because the moment of inertia of a driveshaft is so small, whether it weighs 15lb or 30lb isn't going to make much difference. If you want to reduce weight, go to a lighter flywheel (however that will introduce more vibrations). Lighter wheels/tires will help reduce unsprung weight and have a much greater effect (larger moment of inertia compared to a driveshaft).

16lb is just under 3 gals of gas. I don't know about you, but I can't tell the difference in handling when full or after consumption of 3 gals of fuel.

Anyhow, we're beating a dead horse here. If you think it will help you, more power to you.
Old 03-26-2012, 03:42 AM
  #33  
G37Sam
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True, but you need to keep in mind those 30lbs are not still, they're turning at thousands of rpm
Old 03-26-2012, 11:10 AM
  #34  
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Old 03-26-2012, 11:25 AM
  #35  
ECain18
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Sorry J solo, but this can't quite be compared to 3 gals of gas. I agree with Sam any rotating part no matter how small will make a dif., after installing mine, my car is peppier. I would equate it with taking out the back seats, which were close to 67 lbs in my car for the seats/hardware. Or adding lightweight pulleys or two piece rotors. Some people do not think they are worth it or do anything, but freeing up any rotating mass helps. Yes it the moment of inertia is small but it will still make some difference. I agree with you that wheels/flywheel make the biggest difference. I'm not talking of the driveshaft gaining 15 hp or anything (and i use gain lightly as I know it doesnt "increase hp" but it does give it back from drivetrain loss), but I would honestly say 5-7 Hp given back to the car would be pretty conservative. I honestly do not want to turn this into a serious debate because I cannot back it up with dynos. I'm getting sick of working on my car and its almost done now lol. It's not a huge difference, but def noticeable. Is it worth it? ehh depends who you are talking to. When you consider it, for all you spend on N/A mods, it will never be worth it compared to going FI. You will spend a small fortune doing all lightweight mods for very little gain comparatively. For me, every bit of weight helps because it all adds up eventually. When you do pulleys, lightweight wheels, 2 pc rotors, and a lightweight driveshaft, its a pretty big difference to be honest. I'm waiting for my clutch to go out so I can do a lightweight flywheel then.

I got a 1 on my AP physics exam, AKA i don't know **** about how to calculate things. Can you tell if the difference would be noted because it is only like 3.5" di. but 4.5 ft LONG. Would the length make the weight a bigger factor because it is spread out over such a longer distance even though it has a small moment of inertia?

Last edited by ECain18; 03-26-2012 at 11:38 AM.
Old 03-26-2012, 05:24 PM
  #36  
37hevn
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Originally Posted by Jsolo
^^I mean negligible compared to a 3800lb car. If the drive shaft was a foot in diameter, then there might be measurable differences. Because the moment of inertia of a driveshaft is so small, whether it weighs 15lb or 30lb isn't going to make much difference. If you want to reduce weight, go to a lighter flywheel (however that will introduce more vibrations). Lighter wheels/tires will help reduce unsprung weight and have a much greater effect (larger moment of inertia compared to a driveshaft).

16lb is just under 3 gals of gas. I don't know about you, but I can't tell the difference in handling when full or after consumption of 3 gals of fuel.

Anyhow, we're beating a dead horse here. If you think it will help you, more power to you.
lmao i think youre the dead horse cuz gallons of gas isnt linked to the drivetrain...directly. my buddy just did a clutch on his nismo 370z and he noticed more power and its about the same weight reduction of the drivetrain, he then 2 weeks later installed a gtm sc himself, just saying
Old 03-26-2012, 10:40 PM
  #37  
indyn
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guys. all this is a healthy debate n all but can we focus on the thread i.e. Group by for driveshaft.

I would really prefer a Carbon one even if its few hundred dollars more and better long term benefits. we might hear more hum with Aluminum as time goes on, even though it has the same weight advantage.
Old 03-26-2012, 10:48 PM
  #38  
37hevn
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Originally Posted by indyn
guys. all this is a healthy debate n all but can we focus on the thread i.e. Group by for driveshaft.

I would really prefer a Carbon one even if its few hundred dollars more and better long term benefits. we might hear more hum with Aluminum as time goes on, even though it has the same weight advantage.
the lowest cf custom shaft ive found (and ive looked around) is at least 900. youll prolly have more than 1000 in it by the time you have a shop that specializes in domestic links try to figure out what you have. but still say 900, thats more than double of the z1 aluminum. and why do you think as time goes on the z1 one will hum more than the cf?

like i said on a previous page, you wont tell a difference in performance on the street so why pay double for cf unless you like the feeling of saying carbon fiber and shaft in the same sentence. im just saying you could buy another z1 aluminum shaft if the first one "hums" more later on in a couple years and still be cheaper and less headache. do you think youll have this car for 10 years?
Old 03-27-2012, 12:03 AM
  #39  
indyn
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Originally Posted by 37hevn
the lowest cf custom shaft ive found (and ive looked around) is at least 900. youll prolly have more than 1000 in it by the time you have a shop that specializes in domestic links try to figure out what you have. but still say 900, thats more than double of the z1 aluminum. and why do you think as time goes on the z1 one will hum more than the cf?

like i said on a previous page, you wont tell a difference in performance on the street so why pay double for cf unless you like the feeling of saying carbon fiber and shaft in the same sentence. im just saying you could buy another z1 aluminum shaft if the first one "hums" more later on in a couple years and still be cheaper and less headache. do you think youll have this car for 10 years?
no I was not going for braggin rights if there's any with Carbon. If Al can do that job then I'm in. Its more of the vibration and the hums I'm concerned about. But you got me convinced, how many do we have for the GB?
can it take FI is another question?
Old 03-27-2012, 12:43 AM
  #40  
jamesshifflett
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I was down to join this group buy but called Z1 motorsports two weeks ago in the hopes of ordering the Aluminum driveshaft but was told, to my dismay, that they haven't yet produced one for the sedan... They may have one in the future but we'll see.
Old 03-27-2012, 01:14 AM
  #41  
37hevn
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Originally Posted by indyn
can it take FI is another question?
only z1 can answer how much hp its rated up to. but thats a good question
Old 04-12-2012, 02:29 AM
  #42  
infamousstunna1
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I'm also interested in the aluminum driveshaft. Keep me in the loop, fellas...
Old 04-12-2012, 02:32 AM
  #43  
NeverBoneStock
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I'm down for a aluminum drive shaft ..
Old 04-12-2012, 03:20 AM
  #44  
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Im down for CF driveshaft!! i need to know the price for group buy first before i join the group buy
Old 04-13-2012, 04:59 PM
  #45  
G37HKS
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In for how much HP it related to.


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