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View Poll Results: Grounding Kit Causing Battery Failure?
I have had a grounding kit for at least 6 mths with NO battery failure BEFORE TSB's.
10.96%
I have had a grounding kit for at least 6 mths with NO battery failure AFTER TSB's..
10.96%
I have had a grounding kit for at least 6 mths WITH battery failure BEFORE TSB's.
6.85%
I have had a grounding kit for at least 6 mths WITH battery failure AFTER TSB's..
6.85%
I have NO grounding kit WITH battery failure after TSB's.
8.22%
I have had NO battery failure.
56.16%
Voters: 73. You may not vote on this poll

Grounding Kit Causing Battery Failure

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Old 11-28-2010, 03:31 AM
  #16  
jujubii
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pretty much to solve the issue, we just keep a mini socket wrench in our car and everytime we're gonna leave the G undriven for days remove ground wire connected to the Vce- and leave it connected normally. (electrical tape the exposed end of the grounding wire) and we're good to go? hahha
Old 11-28-2010, 12:38 PM
  #17  
Dieseldoug22
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Originally Posted by smashhell
wait, so putting a grounding wire in is a bad thing for the car ????
If you have an AT you should get the grounding kit. Just make your first connection to where the stock battery cable connects to the body. The rest of the car can definitely benefit from the ground wires.
Old 11-28-2010, 09:23 PM
  #18  
Heat
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Since I removed the (-) terminal, I can definitely feel that AT lag again. The battery drain normally has taken about 4-6 months after I have received the new battery or ECU update. So it is difficult to determine if it is actually the ground kit or not. I just recently took the car back in again because it died 3x again in one morning. Now they are testing whether it is because of my radar detector (beltronics w/ stealth cord) causing the issue. However, I have never had another car that had a problem with this setup.
Old 11-28-2010, 10:41 PM
  #19  
EnviedG35
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Ive had grounding kits on every car ive owned, including this one for almost 2 years now. I havent had any problems. I think cars that are having problems have another underlying issue within the electrical system and seeing as the ground kit is the only variable not part of the original eqaution it is the easiest part to put blame upon.
Old 11-28-2010, 11:24 PM
  #20  
icfp1980
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I have an 08 coupe AT. I have had the grounding kit for about 2 months. No issues and runs great so far!
Old 12-28-2010, 10:43 PM
  #21  
TVPostSound
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Originally Posted by Dieseldoug22
If you have an AT you should get the grounding kit. Just make your first connection to where the stock battery cable connects to the body. The rest of the car can definitely benefit from the ground wires.
I just disassembled the cowling around the battery, removed the fuse block, and inspected this "current sensor".

What I observed is the battery negative cable running through a ferrite ring assembly. Otherwise known as a clamp style ammeter.

This reports back to the ECM to control alternator output beyond that of the alternator's voltage regulator.

According to the FSM, the current sensor can be bypassed by unplugging it, and having the dealer
program the ECM to no use it, and letting the alternator regulate the charge.

Time allowing, I will remove the current sensor, and see how large of wire gauge can run through it. I will also see if it can be split, as it looks like a cable terminal wont slide through.

Another option would be to see if we could mail a current sensor for Black Betty to build a cable into it.



.
Old 12-29-2010, 09:01 PM
  #22  
Heat
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^^^^ Let us know what happens. Thanks
Old 12-29-2010, 11:21 PM
  #23  
Legz
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09 7AT w/ grounding kit, under drive pulley, aftermarket sub, and stored in garage during -20C winter for 1.5mo (start the car once a week w/o driving it), and no problem here... had the setup for more than a yr
Old 01-21-2011, 12:05 AM
  #24  
Modme
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Direct quote from the factory service manual:

Precaution for Power Generation Voltage Variable Control System INFOID:0000000001666062
CAUTION:
For this model, the battery current sensor that is installed to the battery cable at the negative terminal measures the charging/discharging current of the battery, and performs various controls. If the electrical component or the ground wire is connected directly to the battery terminal, the current other than that being measured with the battery current sensor is charging to or discharging from the battery. This condition causes the malfunction of the control, and then the battery discharge may occur. Do not connect the electrical component or the ground wire directly to the battery terminal.
Old 01-21-2011, 06:50 AM
  #25  
JoshLee89
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whatever the service manual says... =)
Old 01-31-2011, 01:13 PM
  #26  
roots4x
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Originally Posted by TVPostSound
I just disassembled the cowling around the battery, removed the fuse block, and inspected this "current sensor".

What I observed is the battery negative cable running through a ferrite ring assembly. Otherwise known as a clamp style ammeter.

This reports back to the ECM to control alternator output beyond that of the alternator's voltage regulator.

According to the FSM, the current sensor can be bypassed by unplugging it, and having the dealer
program the ECM to no use it, and letting the alternator regulate the charge.

Time allowing, I will remove the current sensor, and see how large of wire gauge can run through it. I will also see if it can be split, as it looks like a cable terminal wont slide through.

Another option would be to see if we could mail a current sensor for Black Betty to build a cable into it.



.
One option you have is to splice the ammeter to a thicker cable. Resistance is inversely proportional to cross sectional area and directly proportional to length. This is why you can run 1000 watts of power through a small fuse. If the high gauge cable is sufficiently short (less than 6 inches) and the rest is thicker low gauge cable, it really won't matter if the cable is not super heavy all the way through.

That said, does this really help the car? The solid steel that makes up most of the car is a far better conductor than some 4gauge strand could be. I won't judge since I haven't tried it, but this seems a little snake oily to me.
Old 01-31-2011, 02:57 PM
  #27  
infamousstunna1
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Anyone on here , have received any of these problems, with Stillen's grounding kit?

Last edited by infamousstunna1; 01-31-2011 at 06:51 PM.
Old 01-31-2011, 09:09 PM
  #28  
Dieseldoug22
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Originally Posted by roots4x
One option you have is to splice the ammeter to a thicker cable. Resistance is inversely proportional to cross sectional area and directly proportional to length. This is why you can run 1000 watts of power through a small fuse. If the high gauge cable is sufficiently short (less than 6 inches) and the rest is thicker low gauge cable, it really won't matter if the cable is not super heavy all the way through.

That said, does this really help the car? The solid steel that makes up most of the car is a far better conductor than some 4gauge strand could be. I won't judge since I haven't tried it, but this seems a little snake oily to me.
We've already kind of went back and forth on this before... but the engine and a lot of the front end is aluminum. Don't know the physics of it or why, and don't really care... I just know, from ACTUALLY putting it on my car, it works well for AT's.
Old 04-10-2011, 08:21 PM
  #29  
MiLK_MD
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Originally Posted by TVPostSound
Time allowing, I will remove the current sensor, and see how large of wire gauge can run through it. I will also see if it can be split, as it looks like a cable terminal wont slide through.
Just stumbled across this thread while upgrading my sound system. Did you ever manage to figure out if we could upgrade the wiring through the current sensor?

Has anyone actually taken his or her car in to the dealer to have the ECU disabled from monitoring/controlling the charge voltage?
Old 04-21-2011, 04:26 AM
  #30  
Ibanez540r
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Also curious if people are still seeing the same gains of the grounding kit without this specific ground being used?


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