Rochester

iTrader: (8)

Looking at my schedule, I could maybe buy these in March and get them installed in July. In the meantime, one of you here is absolutely going to be doing this next as a stand-alone mod to a similarly modified car. I'm sure of it.

Man... Déjà vu.

At $150 for the kit, and 30 to 60 minutes of shop labor... feels like a slam dunk little project.

Lego_Maniac

iTrader: (3)

You've been saying that about the engine mounts for as long as I can remember

Rochester

iTrader: (8)

For context, those mounts would be $200, with 2-4 shop hours. So while the collars could be had as a $200+ project, the engine mounts could be a $500+ project. And I suspect the NVH from the engine mounts would be far less subtle than these collars, but I really don't know that.

Anyway. Things get done eventually. Might take years, is all.

Calg37USMC

I had access to air tools but yea 30-45 min job

Calg37USMC

I found a good lil write up on the collars, please refer to post #4

Rear Sub-Frame Bushings - Nissan 370Z Forum

Rochester

iTrader: (8)

Thanks for the link into the Z forum. Liking the idea of getting these collars more and more. If I were a gambler, I'd bet that 4DRZ or the designer of planets will get these collars in between their first and second track day this year.

slartibartfast

iTrader: (7)

I am SO close to pulling the trigger...

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

Sounds like a decent mod.

The car actually feels pretty solid around corners now- I have been sliding it a bit on the way to work since the snow tires give up the goat quite a bit earlier, even in the dry. Very predictable handling. We will see how planted it feels with the extra power this year coming out of corners.

If my tune holds up I will probably be looking at some cooling mods first, but the subframe collars are definitely on the radar.

ezbme

Been here 90 mins now they are quoting me 5 hrs. Not happy bought that. I brought some cash so I will see if I can get it out of here for 525. Not super happy w the extra hour. Bushings, Sub frame collar, diff flush.

Lego_Maniac

iTrader: (3)

Maybe ask them to skip the fluid if you want to stay on budget?

If you have a jack and jack stands it's an easy DIY.

Rochester

iTrader: (8)

Half a day plus really isn't unreasonable. Unless they've done that main diff bushing a few times already, it's a serious PITA and could easily take hours. You know that just from research here.

Diff flush & fill is probably a standard charge, like $120 or something, and irrespective of the car already being on the lift.

And the sub-frame collars are probably new to them, so they're hedging their bet at an hour or more.


Lego is right about that. Like most things, it can seem intimidating at first, but with hindsight it's not bad at all.

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

Getting the oil out of the diff should be easy, but what do you use to get the oil into the rear diff? Do you consider the diff full when it starts coming out the fill hole on top?

Rochester

iTrader: (8)

Pick up a cheap, plastic $5 hand pump from Harbor Freight. Just throw it away afterwards.

That seems to be the conventional wisdom. At least, that's what I did last summer.

4DRZ, I'm 54 with feet of clay and a predisposition to pay people to do crap like this, and still I did this myself last year.

Lego_Maniac

iTrader: (3)

I used a large syringe and a flexible tube.

Conventional wisdom is when it starts coming out the fill hole, it's full.

I did lower the car so it all drained, then squeezed under the car to fill it with said syringe.

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

Something like this fluid siphon pump or something different. I am just trying to picture what would work.