12' G37 sedan with error code:P0106 - R2C intake - MAF issue - Please help
#1
12' G37 sedan with error code:P0106 - R2C intake - MAF issue - Please help
Hey guys, so my 2012 g37 sedan 45k miles got my first check engine light today and I ran to Autozone to get the code. its p0106.
I did some research and people are saying its a faulty MAF, or dirty, or leak somewhere in hosing or where it connects to the engine.
But I didnt see any issues anywhere. The MAF sensor still looks clean, hoses good, and crimps are solid Everything looks good.
I have R2C intake installed BTW. I installed it about a year and a half ago, this is my first error.
Question:
watch this video, will this work for our G37s? because we have two MAFs im not sure if this can be done to diagnose if one is bad or not.
Anyone have any other suggestions?
I did some research and people are saying its a faulty MAF, or dirty, or leak somewhere in hosing or where it connects to the engine.
But I didnt see any issues anywhere. The MAF sensor still looks clean, hoses good, and crimps are solid Everything looks good.
I have R2C intake installed BTW. I installed it about a year and a half ago, this is my first error.
Question:
watch this video, will this work for our G37s? because we have two MAFs im not sure if this can be done to diagnose if one is bad or not.
Anyone have any other suggestions?
#2
Registered Member
iTrader: (7)
I am having a similar issue with my car that started right after I installed Z1 intakes, Z1 intake plenum, and their tune. I got a code for the passenger side MAF. Moved it to the driver's side and got the code for that side so I believe it is that one MAF. I plan to get an extended warranty soon to cover it.
I am not sure if it is caused by particles of the new air filters making it dirty, the design of the air filters, the tune, or just that the part coincidentally decided to go bad right after the install.
I picked up a can of MAF cleaner and that seems to work for a short time. (The MAFs look completely spotless even when the car thinks they are "dirty.") I will still get the CE light and go into limp mode on full throttle pulls in 3rd gear and sometimes 2nd gear.
I will have to try unplugging it while running. I wonder if that will work on our cars since there are two of them...
I am not sure if it is caused by particles of the new air filters making it dirty, the design of the air filters, the tune, or just that the part coincidentally decided to go bad right after the install.
I picked up a can of MAF cleaner and that seems to work for a short time. (The MAFs look completely spotless even when the car thinks they are "dirty.") I will still get the CE light and go into limp mode on full throttle pulls in 3rd gear and sometimes 2nd gear.
I will have to try unplugging it while running. I wonder if that will work on our cars since there are two of them...
#3
I would try using MAF cleaner on the senors first, they may not appear dirty but it never hurts to spray some. Clear the code and see if it comes back as pending or actually pops a CEL within the next week or so, if it doesnt it honestly could've just been a random occurence.
#6
Thanks for all the advice, I will try the MAF cleaner before i take this whole damn thing apart and put it back together.
I was honestly going to clean my MAF sensor, throttle body, and replace my spark plugs.
I know the spark plugs are fine at 45k miles but if im cleaning the TB i might as well change those.
after watching this video he makes it look easy. but im in FL and its like 100 degrees outside so im really not looking forward to doing that.
I was honestly going to clean my MAF sensor, throttle body, and replace my spark plugs.
I know the spark plugs are fine at 45k miles but if im cleaning the TB i might as well change those.
after watching this video he makes it look easy. but im in FL and its like 100 degrees outside so im really not looking forward to doing that.
#7
Nice. The spark plugs look super easy to do on this car. Nice having a longitudinal engine. I remember on my last car the engine was transverse and the "easiest" way to get to the rear bank was to remove the upper motor mounts and shift the entire engine forward
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#8
Murkr
A P0106 code has nothing to do with your MAF.
P0106:
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE SENSOR
Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) circuit range/performance
There is a TSB that fixes this with reprogram of the ECU.
A P0106 code has nothing to do with your MAF.
P0106:
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE SENSOR
Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) circuit range/performance
There is a TSB that fixes this with reprogram of the ECU.
#9
and why all of a sudden would i need to do this. ive had the intake installed for over a year.
#10
TSB stands for technical service bulletin. They are usually issued as known solutions for issues that don't rise to the level of a recall (i.e. it's on you to get it repaired, but they are aware of the issue and that it's not unique to your vehicle)
#12
Registered Member
iTrader: (7)
I tried the trick in the 1st video of unplugging the MAF sensor. I unplugged the one that has been giving me codes 1st and it sounded like it was going to die, but then just changed the idle so I thought, "hey it works, I need a new driver's side MAF sensor." Then I unplugged the good sensor on the passenger side and the exact same thing happened. So I believe this trick does not work on our cars since we have 2 sensors.
It did, however, turn on the traction control error light and give me a whole bunch of codes to reset for the intake, maf sensors, drivetrain, etc.
It did, however, turn on the traction control error light and give me a whole bunch of codes to reset for the intake, maf sensors, drivetrain, etc.
#13
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probably should have tried cleaning it first but im stupid i guess
anyways, i reset the code, lets see if it stays away.
Any idea why oil got up in there?
#14
The intake is usually covered in a light "oil mist" due to the crankcase ventilation system.
If you have removed the black plastic "elbows" that connect close to the throttle bodies, you will have more oil in the intake. They are the "oil / air" separators and reduce the amount of oil droplets from the crankcase ventilation system from getting into the intake.
I wouldn't think a little oil residue on the MAP sensor would be an issue, as it should be designed to handle it, for the reason mentioned above.
Anyways... I hope I'm wrong and your issues is resolved
If you have removed the black plastic "elbows" that connect close to the throttle bodies, you will have more oil in the intake. They are the "oil / air" separators and reduce the amount of oil droplets from the crankcase ventilation system from getting into the intake.
I wouldn't think a little oil residue on the MAP sensor would be an issue, as it should be designed to handle it, for the reason mentioned above.
Anyways... I hope I'm wrong and your issues is resolved
#15
The intake is usually covered in a light "oil mist" due to the crankcase ventilation system.
If you have removed the black plastic "elbows" that connect close to the throttle bodies, you will have more oil in the intake. They are the "oil / air" separators and reduce the amount of oil droplets from the crankcase ventilation system from getting into the intake.
I wouldn't think a little oil residue on the MAP sensor would be an issue, as it should be designed to handle it, for the reason mentioned above.
Anyways... I hope I'm wrong and your issues is resolved
If you have removed the black plastic "elbows" that connect close to the throttle bodies, you will have more oil in the intake. They are the "oil / air" separators and reduce the amount of oil droplets from the crankcase ventilation system from getting into the intake.
I wouldn't think a little oil residue on the MAP sensor would be an issue, as it should be designed to handle it, for the reason mentioned above.
Anyways... I hope I'm wrong and your issues is resolved